Nik's Poulan Thread

[redunshee]

2300 CVA fuel line

Has anyone tried using the search function? What a pain. Back on topic: picked up a 2300 CVA cheap and extremely dirty. After a day of cleaning I'm ready to reassemble. One issue is saw has no fuel line. I recall reading sometime ago that the fuel line runs thru the handle. Is this correct? If so is it a straight shot or , if I remember correctly to I need to get my hands on a coupling? Any help will be appreciated.
Bob

 

[chainsawwhisperer]

Bob, I think you can ditch the coupler, and just run the line from the carb through the handle and into the tank.
I have no idea what it is for... maybe replacing the lower portion of fuel line independantly from the upper portion?
J

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Is that a 69 Camaro at the bracket races? I like the sales and service sign.

That was my driver I took bracket racing in street classes 4fun. That pic was at Super Chevy 1994.

 

[67 Mustang]

Has anyone tried using the search function? What a pain. Back on topic: picked up a 2300 CVA cheap and extremely dirty. After a day of cleaning I'm ready to reassemble. One issue is saw has no fuel line. I recall reading sometime ago that the fuel line runs thru the handle. Is this correct? If so is it a straight shot or , if I remember correctly to I need to get my hands on a coupling? Any help will be appreciated.
Bob

Bob, the coupler which is installed inside the end of the handle just before entry into the tank allows you to disassemble parts of the saw, i.e., remove the rewind side cover w/o removing the fuel line from the tank. Sort of a convenience item. Not absolutely necessary but if you have to remove the rewind assembly you'll wish you had the coupling.

 

[chainsawwhisperer]

Bob, the coupler which is installed inside the end of the handle just before entry into the tank allows you to disassemble parts of the saw, i.e., remove the rewind side cover w/o removing the fuel line from the tank. Sort of a convenience item. Not absolutely necessary but if you have to remove the rewind assembly you'll wish you had the coupling.

Ok, That makes sense.
tks !
j

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Not everyone had the money to go fast. Bracket racing was just a way to get more people involved in racing that really could not afford an expensive car. I raced in S. Cal at Orange County International speed way in the late 70's and 80's. When they closed down Orange county I sold everything and quite the speed thing.

We used to have hundreds and thousands of people coming to the local strips around here to watch the Fords vs Chevys and to have a chance to set a national record, now all we have is a bunch of cars racing against themselves and nobody in the stands. I really think they ruined the sport for the fans. Bracket racing now is a big bucks operation also, I could never afford to "race" against the rich guys that are running today.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

What I do to get the seal around a shoulder on a crank is cut up a plastic soda bottle into a little flat rectangle then wrap that around the crank. It will form a smooth ramp over the shoulder.

As for yamabond or other sealer on the outside of a crank seal, I don't think it is needed. The coating on the outside of the seal seems to seal it to the case.
Jim

thanks jim, i thought it was something like that but couldn't find it. do you make it a short ramp or a long one or does it matter? i'd guess wrapping a piece of tape around it might help, or not?

 

[3000 FPS]

That was my driver I took bracket racing in street classes 4fun. That pic was at Super Chevy 1994.

That is a pretty cool car.

 

[3000 FPS]

We used to have hundreds and thousands of people coming to the local strips around here to watch the Fords vs Chevys and to have a chance to set a national record, now all we have is a bunch of cars racing against themselves and nobody in the stands. I really think they ruined the sport for the fans. Bracket racing now is a big bucks operation also, I could never afford to "race" against the rich guys that are running today.

Things change and not always for the better. I drive a street rod now to take care of my car addiction. I have a 46 Ford and a 54 Buick. Just mild street engines so I do not get my self into trouble on the streets. Besides chainsaws are much cheaper and alot of fun.

 

[Warped5]

I tell folks all the time that I'd rather work on old Camaros, but I don't have the $$ or the building space.

I can fit a whole lot more saws into what space I have for a LOT less $$!

 

[crowellmachine]

We used to have hundreds and thousands of people coming to the local strips around here to watch the Fords vs Chevys and to have a chance to set a national record, now all we have is a bunch of cars racing against themselves and nobody in the stands. I really think they ruined the sport for the fans. Bracket racing now is a big bucks operation also, I could never afford to "race" against the rich guys that are running today.

How close is the Bob Glidden ranch to you?

He is my hero, when it comes to drag racing.
( I wonder if he has any hot saws ......... ;0)

Karl

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

That is a pretty cool car.

Now I'm going to make you cry. Me and a poulan cut them all 3 out. 69, 65 chevelle convt, 66 impala convt.

 

[3000 FPS]

Now I'm going to make you cry. Me and a poulan cut them all 3 out. 69, 65 chevelle convt, 66 impala convt.

Was it a storm that hit?

I guess if you need to reduce the size of wood to get it cleaned up a good saw will do the Job. Let me guess a 335 or a 330.

I hoped the cars were not messed up to bad.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I mainly used the 305 in pic and a 220 for the clean up. 2006 100mph straight line winds took the late 1800's 70' x 55' 2 story barn out.


Lucky for me the saws were in the 4 storage areas inside the barn.

 

[3000 FPS]

Wow that was really something.

 

[Mac88]

ex-PP4620AVX

I got this low mileage PP4620AVX for $0.00. Previous owner said the tensioner slipped, and the inertial brake would engage without warning.
$21.50 later and it's now a PP4620AVHD. As soon as the daily temperature drops below 100 degrees, I've got some big red oak sticks that
need to be made into little red oak sticks. We'll see if I got my money's worth.

Before:

After:

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I got this low mileage PP4620AVX for $0.00. Previous owner said the tensioner slipped, and the inertial brake would engage without warning.
$21.50 later and it's now a PP4620AVHD. As soon as the daily temperature drops below 100 degrees, I've got some big red oak sticks that
need to be made into little red oak sticks. We'll see if I got my money's worth.

Before:

After:

I think the guys that made the tool-less tensioner will eventually get the idea...

 

[rms61moparman]

I got this low mileage PP4620AVX for $0.00. Previous owner said the tensioner slipped, and the inertial brake would engage without warning.
$21.50 later and it's now a PP4620AVHD. As soon as the daily temperature drops below 100 degrees, I've got some big red oak sticks that
need to be made into little red oak sticks. We'll see if I got my money's worth.

All in all they are a really great little saw..................after the tool-less adjuster is gone.
They are a lot better than a many of "THOSE" brands light duty saws. You know...the ones that cost about twice as much!
I have a PP295, basically the same saw just an older version and it does very well.
I also have a 2775 with a mild port job and a pretty open muffler and it is a butt kicker running a full 3/8ths (not low pro) and 12 inch bar!



Mike

 

[Nardoo]

I mainly used the 305 in pic and a 220 for the clean up. 2006 100mph straight line winds took the late 1800's 70' x 55' 2 story barn out.


Lucky for me the saws were in the 4 storage areas inside the barn.

QUOTE]

Ouch!!
That would surely make you heart sick - such fine Chevys too.

Al.

 

[Mac88]

All in all they are a really great little saw..................after the tool-less adjuster is gone.
They are a lot better than a many of "THOSE" brands light duty saws. You know...the ones that cost about twice as much!
I have a PP295, basically the same saw just an older version and it does very well.
I also have a 2775 with a mild port job and a pretty open muffler and it is a butt kicker running a full 3/8ths (not low pro) and 12 inch bar!

Mike

I own one of "THOSE" brand saws (I assume you're talking about the "St***" brand). It accounts for most of the wood we
cut every year for our zero-cost heating. It's never failed me. I wouldn't trade it for anything. But one of these days I'd
like something a bit larger. Some of those 60'-80' oaks are scarey to drop with an 18" saw. Sometimes we have to enlist
the help of my BIL. He has a big Poulan, a 4700 as I recall. It's older than dirt, but it WILL make some sawdust if he can
keep it running. If the 4620 works out, I may look into tweaking it a bit.