No Spikes on removals???

[rahtreelimbs]

I've spoke with several other climbers who do all removals without the use of spikes. I would think that this very tiring and hard. Is there anyone else who does removals without the use of spikes?

 

[TREETX]

Almost every removal is spikeless for me.

Not many excurrent trees here. Big round crowns w/no need for spikes unless you just want something extra to stick in your calf or climbing line.

I am not saying they aren't necessary but it is also important to think outside the spike.

The rare situation where a stem has to be blocked small, into a small place.

Overseas I have done a lot of pine and fir removals spikeless but I just topped them and then worked my way down on the stubs I left until there was just stick which I dropped.

If I worked up in the NE US, I would probably use them a whole lot more.

 

[Stumper]

I worked without gaffs my entire career up until a year ago. Mostly it didn't matter BUT I'm hooked on my hooks for removals now. I look back and see how much harder some jobs were without them and can think of at least two jobs I walked away from that I would do without hesitation on gaffs. A lot depends on the trees and the area you live in-A lot of species are easier to move around in without spikes-as Treetx alluded to- other species are a royal pain to climb in and gaffs make them easy.

 

[tjk]

I can definetly do removals faster and safer and more effciant with my spurs on.

 

[Eagle1]

Spikes

Spikes give you that extra leverage when chunking down.

 

[TREETX]

My last time to check in on this biannual spike/no spikes debate here.

Not all trees are excurrent in form with a "stick". How are you going to spike an extremely decurrent live oak?

Excurrent = spikes


Decurrent = why use spikes?? It is like needing spikes for pruning.

There are places in the world where I would use them on almost every removal. Others where they would be pointless.

Guess I just don't like the attitude that all there is to a removal is chunking off blocks of spar. Just seems pretty specific to region and more a display of only having worked a few different regions/region types.

Have a bunch of tools in yer tool box and stay diverse.

Ya'll have fun.

 

[Grigory]

At us in Russia spikes is not present. Seven years remove trees without spikes. We use convenient and simple system from two lanyards. My opinion, that on spikes in some cases, would be more convenient, is faster and easier. In Russia by removal of trees earn additionally electricians. They use such "spikes" they are suitable for trees only of some diameters.

 

[Grigory]

I have question: whether Conveniently to work in spikes on inclined trees?

 

[monkeypuzzle]

Here is one that I think spikes or not would be tough. Would you sit to make the cuts? Making a undercut would be tough.

These pecans can be tricky trees because of the form(decurrent).
Very difficult using a flip-line, it would be somewhere near your feet.

I am not at all saying you couldn't remove this leader without spikes,but I would like to see how it can be done efficiently.

No nubs(limbs) to use for standing. Tie in high to central leader and maybe work it from the sides.

What about all the movement rigging larger pieces, lots of shakin going on.


I say get a crane

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i've grown so used to not using spikes and habitually the strategies therof; where spikes can get in the way! Especailly in a medium, naturally well scaffolded takedown, i have no use for'em.

But for extreme large diameter vertical takedowns i use them for efficiency. Also for block and catch on the host spar, i consider them a safety factor. Or trying to race a $125/hr. crane from point to point; seeing as it is more logical to be held by a 6k device, rather than a 600k one......

Without i get around like pruning, only i can stub a branch off at any height to stand on, or even conventional knotch in spar for same. Course it is really neat if you schedule that so on the next move use that notch, alternating angles naturely to keep feet in notch out of the way, also the ground guys have more time to move stuff, to rule out 'ricochet' forces when bombing out to 2 diffrent KillZones......

Like my Bashlins with the comfy Velcrov Super Wraps. Those fancy uppers sure last a lot longer when you don't use'em!

:alien:

 

[ramanujan]

In this area I get laughed at when I don't use spurs for removals, simply because they are very necessary for most of the trees here. I'd estimate 70% of the work I do is on excurrent trees.

But when I am removing a spreading decurrent tree I feel handicapped with spurs on, I can't scamper along the limbs

For those that have mentioned they rarely/never use spurs, how does one chunk down a bare spar with no TIP above? Slings for your feet?

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I will use gaffs only when needed, Long spars with no footholds left. I can move around the canopy better without, this mostly because I wear them so seldom.

Like a polesaw, bucket or chainsaw, one more tool to be used when you need to pull it out of the bag.

For that matter, Ive topped out a number of trees with just a handsaw, saved the chainsaw climbing for the spar.

 

[Burnham]

Lumberjacklyn, replacement ring/stap sets are available. Terra-Tech, at terratech.net, or 800-321-1037, has Klein split-ring ankle straps at $27.95/pair. Cat. #SPE3206. I'm sure they can be had from other sources. These will mount on Buckingham spurs as well, if you want to upgrade from the single straight strap on those. My personal favorite is the Bashlin aluminum spur with the cast aluminum/foam leg pads. Comfortable for hours and a little lighter to boot.

 

[treeman82]

What kind of pads are you using? I used to have that problem with my gaffs when I was using the stock upper pads. Once I switched to the velcro pads with the steel insert the problem went away.

 

[dbeck]

it is my feeling that use of climbers during removal is by far the safest thing you can do. When stretched out on a limb over a roof that needs to be false crotched down to the roof on the same limb you are on w/o footholds, what keeps you fromslipping and smashing your jewels? Use the safest gear you can, don't do removals w/o climbers to be macho or anything like that, that's silly. (i'm not saying everyone is trying to be macho, either) The best climber I've ever met (arbormaster champ, instructor and three time isa competitor) uses spikes on every removal. By example of such a renown climber, I think it makes sense.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Wow, every removal? Even a notch and drop?
What if the truck is wayyyy over there, and the tree bring removed is a smallish honeylocust with a a lot of nice scafold branches, one that could easily be climbed by a 10 year old child? Anyway, what if your spikes are back in the truck, and it's a long walk, uphill, and it's 95 degrees out?
How about if it's a simple climb and you nedd to trim two other trees, one just before, and one just after this removal?
What if you are just really good at footlocking, a very safe way to enter a tree, and you just need to scoot up there and knock out the top?
What if that same tree is a hard leaner or has loose bark, and you just need to knock out the top?
The point is this, to say you should wear spikes for every removal is silly. If it's easier, faster, safer, or any combination of these, why not climb without them?

 

[NeTree]

I only use gaffs when necessary...(like when I'm down to the spar). They hurt my feet.

 

[dbeck]

mike, are you suggesting that is some piece of equipment that would make the job safer is back in the truck, up that hill on the 95 degree day you would not go back and get it? you would take that risk?
Your sarcasm was sensed in your post. Obviously noone is going to spike a notch and drop removal.
Maybe I should outline what I consider a removal. More than 1/2 day of work involving roping over taget areas (houses, garages,fences, etc). a notch and drop is just that.
Footlocking into a tree is something I commonly perform before removing it. Often times the srt technique is faster than spking the tree. If there is extensive movement to be done after that I usually request spikes.
maybe I'm biased for spike, but I feel my reasons are just and so do all the folks I work with. I also am a beleiver that if it works effectively for you, then fine. Just ensure your safety and the safety of your coworkers.

 

[TREETX]

Originally posted by Mike Maas
The point is this, to say you should wear spikes for every removal is silly. If it's easier, faster, safer, or any combination of these, why not climb without them?

Well said by the high priest from the church of the painful truth


It is also silly to say that removing a tree is not a removal and that it is only a removal when you are roping down LARGE pieces of a hazardous tree that is hanging over St. Mary's School for the Limbless Orphans and a herd of cute fuzzy puppy dogs

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

And you are the most reverand brother of the benovolent order of ironc wit.

I say do it hwo your fastestest and mostest comfortable.

I think I could see Sean taking the top out of a tree w/o spikes and having them sent up later. Everyone I've talked to has said he blows their mind. "How the 'ell you get over there!"