Northern grinder breakage/hillbilly fixes

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Steve NW WI

Unwanted Riff Raff.
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I had some troulbe with my Northern (Oregon 511 knockoff) grinder tonight. I couldn't get the chain angle to tighten. I took it apart, and found that the nut molded into the spinner handle was coming out of the plastic, and the nut was bottoming on the shoulder bolt before things got tight.

Simple cure was to pound the nut completely out of the plastic handle. Now I needed a spacer longer than the shaft on the shoulder bolt, but short enough to thread the nut. I have the grinder set up in the basement, and most of my "stuff" is out in the shed, and with 35° and raining (plus me by the nice warm stove), I had no interest in going out to find parts. Digging through the junk bin, I found a length of 1/2" pipe. Perfect, just needs to be cut to size. I took the "decorative" hacksaw down off the wall, and started sawing. ---Get ready, this may be one of the few times in AS history this phrase is used correctly--- The blade cuts crooked! (But it was fairly sharp). No big files around, so my raker file got tasked to square things up. It actually worked fairly well. Add a flat washer to the bottom (it was ever so slightly small on the I.D., so an old 7/32 file fixed that as well. I need a wrench to move it for the time being, but I'll weld a small rod onto it for a T-handle next week at work.

Here's a pic of the finished project:

attachment.php


I also got tired of the plastic thumbscrew working loose on the chain stop. Another rummage through the junk drawer turned up a 1/4" bolt, nut, and a wingnut, as well as a 5/16" nut for a spacer. The stop is now mostly centered on the chain, flips up and down easily, and doesn't rattle loose:

attachment.php


I also learned tonight (sharpened about a dozen chains) that if the grinding wheel builds up with crap, you will start to get a heck of a burr. Re-dressing the wheel cured it, but I have one chain that may be less than optimal, if ya know what I mean.

Overall, this is a good machine for me, for the price. I hand file to keep chains sharp in the woods, and mostly use it for rocked chains, or chains I've filed a few times and are getting out of whack.

Sorry for the book, hope this helps someone else.
 
Thanks for the pics and fix info Steve! Up till now, I've managed to mangle (sharpen) all my chains by hand.:) But thinking of buying that particular grinder, and having a go at it. Good to see problems or fixes for them, that could pop up. I don't really NEED one, but curiosity has got the better of me!
I'm just a firewood cutter, so for the price, that one caught my eye!

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
how do you like your grinder, I'm looking for one after doing a few rocked out chains by hand and the northern seems better for the price than what others have to offer

other than a few breaks

how long have you had the grinder? is there much slop in the adjustments

thanks for any help
 
Thanks for the pics and fix info Steve! Up till now, I've managed to mangle (sharpen) all my chains by hand.:) But thinking of buying that particular grinder, and having a go at it. Good to see problems or fixes for them, that could pop up. I don't really NEED one, but curiosity has got the better of me!
I'm just a firewood cutter, so for the price, that one caught my eye!

:cheers:
Gregg,

I'm in your same boat. I only cut firewood, but I'm shooting for about 30 cords this year. I used to bring my chains in to the Stihl dealer on the way to work, but at $7 each now, this thing will pay for itself quickly. I cut a good amount of fenceline wood as well, so rocked/nailed/etc chains are all too common for me.

how do you like your grinder, I'm looking for one after doing a few rocked out chains by hand and the northern seems better for the price than what others have to offer

other than a few breaks

how long have you had the grinder? is there much slop in the adjustments

thanks for any help

Got it last spring, they had an $89 sale on them, too good to pass up at that price. As long as everything is kept tight, slop is very minimal. I check cutter lenghts with a digital caliper, and mostly keep them within .005 or less of the same length. I do have to adjust slightly when going from left to right, apparently that means that the chain rails are not quite centered to the wheel, but not much to do about that. If this one dies, I'd buy another one. The wheels that come with them are pretty crappy though, just buy an Oregon wheel and you're in better shape there.


what is the dia of the grinding wheels?

They are 5 3/4", 7/8"arbor (mounting hole)

Great informative post!

Thanks!
 
Do you sharpen it at the 10dgr angle? I point my cutters down when i sharpen them. 60/10/30 i think for my 3/8 chains.
 
Do you sharpen it at the 10dgr angle? I point my cutters down when i sharpen them. 60/10/30 i think for my 3/8 chains.

I've just been using 30/60/0 that Stihl recommends, since most of my chains are Stihl. I'm gonna try a couple using the tilt now that I'm getting more comfortable with it, and see how much difference there is.

I seem to be fresh out of dull chains right now though, so time to go fix that...Off to the woods with me!
 
The only thing I see

Is by having the chain stop fixed between the nuts.. Once you get down to a worn chain you might wish you could move the tab to each side to miss the wheel..
 
I've just been using 30/60/0 that Stihl recommends, since most of my chains are Stihl. I'm gonna try a couple using the tilt now that I'm getting more comfortable with it, and see how much difference there is.

I seem to be fresh out of dull chains right now though, so time to go fix that...Off to the woods with me!

they is a casting error on the bottom that will not let you tillt the table one way. You have to grind it off.
My chains even the stihl ones said use the 10degr tilt? Idk what kine you have tho. ]
It seems to cut a bit better, i had been using 0 for a while.
 
they is a casting error on the bottom that will not let you tillt the table one way. You have to grind it off.
My chains even the stihl ones said use the 10degr tilt? Idk what kine you have tho. ]
It seems to cut a bit better, i had been using 0 for a while.

I'll give the 10° a try. For clarification, which way do I tilt the front of the chain? Is it tip toward or away from the wheel?

I cleaned up a lot of the rough edges as soon as I bought it, after reading many of the posts on here. Searching for "Northern Grinder" will get lots of posts, and lots of simple fixes.

ericjeeper,
I haven't gotten down to the short end of chains yet, but I could see running into the stop on a short 3/8 Mini chain. .325 and regular 3/8, Ihave ground a couple down to almost the angle marks, and it doesn't hit the wheel.
 
You point the tooth toward the ground. SO you do one side towards you and the other the other way?
Make seance? took me a while to figure it out...
 
You point the tooth toward the ground. SO you do one side towards you and the other the other way?
Make seance? took me a while to figure it out...

Nose down, got it!

Thanks!

I spent too much time with friends this weekend, and not enough with saws, so I'll have to try and kill some chains after work this week.
 

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