I don't know Thomas, but these guys are working on it.
Wow. . .that is pathetic. I am sorry your having problems. Perhaps you could place the bearings in a baggie of lubricant and vacuum seal it for a period of time. It should draw lube/oil into the bearings.
Years back we had a machine that the bearings kept failing as the oil used to lube them drained out, the seals were part of the cage & couldn't be removed I used a trick that motor cycles used for their chains,in days before auto oilers, comprises of 2 containers larger outer containing water smaller inner containing grease heat water until grease melts & reaches consistency of oil, place bearings in the oil/grease,remove from heat & allow to cool clean off excess the lube now stays put longer & bearings stays lubed longer.
The workshop wood burner is an ideal tool for this would not recomend indoor stove use. I have however put a crank pins in plastic bags in the Freezer to ease the fit in the flywheel halfs
Ok... So if I drill out the holder to accept a 3/8" bolt.... Its 13/32 wide. Says it is sealed even though the picture doesn't allude to such...
https://www.amazon.com/Kilian-D-2269-Outside-Diameter-Bearing/dp/B003XU6QTS
What's the part number for that McGill bearing? I know I've bought one of those in the past, can't find the Part number though in any threads.My bearings showed up today.
The McGill bearing is a little different on the inside, but basically the same thing.
Sent from a field
A propane torch works well. You just mark rod area with a Thermomelt HEAT-STIK for the proper heat range. Done it countless times inserting piston pins.
Dunking the piston in a container of boiling water for 5 or so minutes works well to free up the piston pin to enable it to be an easy sliding fit in the rod My take is it spreads the heat more evenly than a heat gun of some type both ways work though.
Try McMaster and Carr.
The good old ss bearing issue, they didn't take care of it but Split Second addressed it from day one. Update your ss with the parts from the Split Second web site, you would need the bearing, spring and housing download their manual and see pages 18,19. The Bearing is sealed, read below......and see the log lift that fits the super splits because they won't make one.
Why is the manufacturer not addressing this for you for free. I would honestly expect free updated machine and with a sincere apology and shipping paid to return your broken machine and a partial refind on the entire splitter. It is not like you spent $600 at Menards for mass produced Chinese stuff. I have watched threads on these where the splitting wedge falls off and the welds looked like thay were put in my a 3rd grader with a $69 Harbor Freight welder. I hope the Koolaid does not wear off for most of you as it appears that. . . well it appears for the money spent you should have received a better built product.The abilities of the super split is impressive. But if that little bearing under the rack can bring an entire session to a halt with such little use, something is going to have to be done about it.
I'm also going to send this one to Paul. Something is out of alignment. This is the top of the rack that rides along the cam followers when engaging the rack. You can see on the left side of the rack there is more contact with the follower than the right.
Which is also supported by the wear on those followers themselves.
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