offsetting the back cut on blocking cuts

[Plasmech]

I notice that almost always when one fells a tree from the ground, the back cut is 2-4 inches or even more above the horizontal face cut in order to remove the possibility of the tree kicking out opposite the direction it is gunned.

However, on blocking-down cuts, the back cut is almost always co-planar with the horizontal face cut. Is there a reason why the back cut is not made higher to prevent kick-out on blocking cuts? Would this make it too hard for the groundman to pull the block down?

Thanks for any help here pro's.

 

[tree md]

I always like to make my back cuts about two inches above the face cut of the notch. It seems to allow me to control the fall better. I stand 90 degrees to the target, cut my notch then make a small kerf with my saw to mark where I want to make my back while I am standing at 90 degrees and can see the notch clearly. I have worked with another guy from this site who cuts way closer to the bottom of the notch. I helped him pull over a trunk split 200 year Oak like that with a GRCS anchored to one tree and my 2 ton dump pulling another line. Came off without a hitch (thank God because the job was for a local cop). After seeing him pull that one off I won't question his methods.

Most times when I am blocking I like to make snap cuts. I make about a two inch face cut then cut two inches or less above that on my back cut. I cut until the log starts to set down on my saw, pull my saw out and either push the log and snap it off or have a groundie pull it off with a line, depending on the size of the log.

 

[tree md]

Also worth mentioning that you should have your lanyard or friction saver at waist level and get up as high as you can on the log while pushing it off. Also, always have your sling and block set below your TIP.

 

[clearance]

When blocking down, if its firewood size I just bull right though with one cut and push or throw it down. For logs, same as on the ground, backcut a little higher.

 

[Plasmech]

So on that oak, I assume you felled it from the ground?

Otherwise if you cut the top off or a block off, you'd have to make your cuts, come down, and then help pull it off? I imagine climbing down with a partially cut top is very dangerous?

 

[tree md]

So on that oak, I assume you felled it from the ground?

Otherwise if you cut the top off or a block off, you'd have to make your cuts, come down, and then help pull it off? I imagine climbing down with a partially cut top is very dangerous?

No, never descend with a loose log above you. I mostly do like clearance said on the smaller stuff or stuff I'm bombing out. I refer to blocking wood down as setting a sling and block to lower the log (like when you have to drop it like a feather on a manicured lawn or avoid something like a deck under the tree). In the old days when with did this with just a rope we called it collaring the log down. If you don't have enough help to pull a heavey log over cut it smaller to where you can handle pushing it over.

As for the Oak, yes it was cut from the ground after some weight reduction over the house and swimming pool. It was at a pretty severe lean over the house and pool, split from an ice storm down the trunk and held together with a come along and logging chain.