Oil Delivery Concerns - Husky 390 & 372

[cuttinupferalivin]

Well all I run is 262 and 372. If you or someone you know has either, I’d be glad to take a days vacation to see how well my assertion stands. I live in Va and I’ve noticed most of the comments here are coming from within a 6 hr drive.
I’m not trying to knock a ported saw as I have extensive history with saws as well as fully built natural aspirated 800 hp small block chevys which of the later was my niche.
Ive watched the countless videos on n you tube of ported against stock and from what I saw a good oiling stock saw with a 28” bar will blow past the ported one in big wood It is what it is. Either take some good advice and use it or ignore it and keep the friction high between the bar and chain and you know who.

Either way I got it in the bag because a stock 262 oils like crap if at all, and a 372 I got the longer bar advantage

 

[cuttinupferalivin]

Either way I got it in the bag because a stock 262 oils like crap if at all, and a 372 I got the longer bar advantage

 

[cuttinupferalivin]

Stock is referring to the stock oil pump only and the bar advantage is referring to the “ cookies “ these videos show, usually running through soft wood with a 20”. In the real world where these things can make the day when doing storm damage or even residential tree work for a well established company, it’s the big oaks and maples that are bringing the big money…and these saws must get it done.
It took me some yrs and a few thousand dollars to get them right, and a whole lot of nights reading what you guys had done with them. In fact you guys are the ones that helped me more than anything else. I just happened to hate a stuck chain and started monkeying w the oiler. In fact it was on this forum someone gave me the insight as to what to do. I’m just reinforcing the fact

 

[bwalker]

I currently own all of those models. In my experience they're always among the better oilers when it come to modern saws, the Stihl models of that time period oiled so little they often had to be upgraded.

If the oilers are in proper order, something else is at play. Check the bars, I've used everything from, husqvarna bars, total, Stihl and have had no oiling issues whatsoever. Sometimes the lines may need to be flushed out, but that's usually on high hour saws.

I am of the same opinion.

 

[bwalker]

Well all I run is 262 and 372. If you or someone you know has either, I’d be glad to take a days vacation to see how well my assertion stands. I live in Va and I’ve noticed most of the comments here are coming from within a 6 hr drive.
I’m not trying to knock a ported saw as I have extensive history with saws as well as fully built natural aspirated 800 hp small block chevys which of the later was my niche.
Ive watched the countless videos on n you tube of ported against stock and from what I saw a good oiling stock saw with a 28” bar will blow past the ported one in big wood It is what it is. Either take some good advice and use it or ignore it and keep the friction high between the bar and chain and you know who.

I'm calling BS on that. There are lots of hacks that port saws. However, I you have a guy port your saw that knows what he's doing a ported saw will walk away from a non ported one.
FWIW back in the day I had a stable of stock and ported 372's the ported ones where much faster regardless of bar length and in wood denser than what you have in Virginia.

 

[thenne1713]

There are 3 Husqvarna saws in the Jonny Quest stable: 353, 372XP & 390XP. The 372XP is fairly new and only 10 tanks of fuel through it. The 390XP has low hours on it with only 25 tanks of fuel through it. On the 372, I like to run 20" to 24" bars. The 390 wears 24" up through 32" bars. On both saws, I have the oiler adjustment screws set to "max". However, it seems that the amount of oil getting to the bar/chain is barely adequate. On my old Dol-Kita "Frankensaw" (6401 to 7900 conversion), I could readily see micro droplets of oil flinging off the tip of the saw when I revved the saw. I don't see that with the Huskys. It also seems that the Dol-Kita went through bar oil faster than the 2 Huskys. I haven't seen much unusual chain stretch, but the bar does get fairly warm.

The guide bars I run are either Husqvarna brand or Oregon Power Match replaceable sprocket tip bars. Some of the bars I have drilled out (enlarged) the oil hole and some of the bars have the stock smaller OEM hole that appears to be angled forward. I haven't been able to determine much difference in oil delivery between the drilled and the non-drilled bars. I have seen, however, that small wood debris can occasionally find its way into the drilled-out oil hole. I've often wondered if this debris is impeding the oil feeding. The drilled-out oil holes are perpendicular to the bar, and not angled like the OEM small holes. I'm wondering now if I should angle the drilled-out holes.

My bar oil is typically Husqvarna branded or off-the-shelf stuff from Wally-World.

Any suggestions on increasing oil flow? Am I worrying about nothing? I've got an infra-red laser thermometer gun and I will take a measurement of bar temperature to see if there is too much friction. Any idea on what the bar temps should be for normal operations?

JQ

TIP: Start at tank, make sure filter/tubing good, flexible and clear of all sawdust from tank to bar, that plastic gear and PUMP= good; I have read of some that clogged solid from tank to bar?

 

[Gord404]

The oil tube screens have a habit of wearing out in the tank and falling off and will suck up crap in the tank and plug the oiler intake but your saws seem too new for this to have happened but if running it without the bar and cover on and you are getting good oil flow then the bar is at falt because having lots of experiance building these 2 models (372,390, ) I find the generally have a great oiling system stock but yes the bar hole has a habbit of plugging up frequently.

 

[Jonny Quest]

Well…the 390XPW is sold and the 372XPW is now oiling just fine. I think my problem was a clogged oil port.

JQ

 

[CJ1]

Why would you build a small block up when a stock one is just as fast? Sorry but the same reasoning applies to saws. Now I will agree 100% if the porter had no clue of what he or she was doing and made the saw slower. That would be the only reasoning that makes sense. CJ

 

[Fun2Cut]

Oh me oh my!!! I’m holding my sides. Just found this ruckus… Entertaining to say the least.

@cuttinupferalivin, you’ve got some unique thoughts. Actin like you know it all. I ain’t saying you know nowt, but as soon as I see/hear a guy toot his own horn, I know all I wanna know about him.

There just ain’t no way a professionally ported saw is slower than a stock one, just because yours is puking oil all over! Sorry if you can’t handle a fact just as it is. Hey, if slobbering oil all over creation tickles your liver, I ain’t gonna stop you. But I’ll continue happily snippin’ with my well-oiling, stock-pumped, ported 390!!

 

[Gord404]

My 2 go to saws are a 372xpw and a 390xp with walker ported cyliders I had on my shelf. I do a lot of rebuilds on these two models and have yet to see any stock saw come close to either of them, kinda helps that I only live a half how drive from them so with some of the logging saws etc that come in for parts saws for some reason or another have had this work done and if the top end is in good shape well thats gold to me and will go on another rebuild