Oil Ratio

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I’ve always figured that Amsoil Saber 100:1 was just a marketing name and not an actual mix ratio that should ever be used
Some posters have claimed to use 100:1 for years. I use 50:1. I might be wasting a bit of money, but it is not enough for me to worry about the cost.
 
Anywhere from 30-40:1 depending on the saw. I mix at 40:1 plus and add a wee bit for particular saws. I'm not too fussy. Every saw burns differently. I just keep an eye on it. The goal is to have a small, but significant amount of residual oil in the crankcase. Safety factor.

Get as much oil as possible through a 2 stroke while maintaining a clean burn. No spooge (very little, anyway) and almost NO carbon buildup. That's the goal for me for about 50 years. Clean burn has everything to do with the particular oil.

Trying to mix perfect ratios is ridiculous. A few points either way means nothing. It is insignificant.
 
Anywhere from 30-40:1 depending on the saw. I mix at 40:1 plus and add a wee bit for particular saws. I'm not too fussy. Every saw burns differently. I just keep an eye on it. The goal is to have a small, but significant amount of residual oil in the crankcase. Safety factor.

Get as much oil as possible through a 2 stroke while maintaining a clean burn. No spooge (very little, anyway) and almost NO carbon buildup. That's the goal for me for about 50 years. Clean burn has everything to do with the particular oil.

Trying to mix perfect ratios is ridiculous. A few points either way means nothing. It is insignificant.
Curious what oil/oils you prefer?

I've been running 50:1 in new pro level stuff, including lightly ported or MM saws. I use 40:1 in early 90s saws and cheaper stuff. Ran 32:1 in some old reed homelites that were ported. And I even have my dad's old 70s Craftsman/Poulan that says 16:1, and sounds too sqwauky when turned over without that ratio, so I run 16:1 in it.

I've ran Stihl HP Ultra (someone gave me a flat of small bottles), but won't anymore because I run the saws hard and want better bottom end lube. I donated the stuff along with the homelites to a thrift store.

I tried Belray H1R. It definitely leaves good lube in the case, but has more carbon buildup than I like - not horrible, but not what I'm looking for.

I haven't tried RedArmor, but would like to. Then I realized from the sources available locally that Honda HP2 is actually a little cheaper than the Echo.

So I am going to run through a pint of HP2 next and then see the results.

So what do you use? You have the same considerations and oil analysis principles that I do, so I would be interested what you have used, and what results you've seen.
 
I did a lot of experimentation years ago trying to achieve a clean burn at near 30:1 in various dirt bikes. Yamalube, HP2, motul 800 and 600?, amsoil dominator and interceptor, elf something or other (I forget), and a few others. There were only two oils that burned clean at 30:1. The amsoil dominator (for moto) and interceptor (for enduro) burned clean with no spooge (a dry-to-moist grey to light brown tail pipe and light brown to almost grey-ish plug) and no excessive carbon. The elf oil was similar, but basically not available in my world, unfortunately. I'd say the elf was the best oil, all around, but kind of a guess, really. All of the others were spoogy and dirty unless running at 40-45:1, which I don't do. Top ends in these bikes were regularly serviced: about 15-20 hours in 125's (pushing it for cost considerations) and 40-50 hours in 250's. I don't run heavy mixes for the top ends, I run them for the bottom ends. We were seeing ridiculous high hours on bottom ends and, for the most part rebuilt bottom ends just because, for example, about 250 hours on a ktm200 bottom end seemed like time to redo even though there would be "0" rod play. The 125's went into the mid 100's of hours. Easily. Always replaced the wrist pin bearing even with just a ring change to eliminate the possibility of "hammering". Jetted for torque most of the time, etc, etc. The '08 200xc, one of the '06 CR125's, and an '05 kdx220 are still running perfectly today, tho not getting as much use as before.

Chainsaws are more forgiving. I ran some stihl oil for a while and found terrible carbon build up. And it stinks. I'm not nearly as picky with saws or other equipment. Bikes are not allowed to break, lest ye break yourself...

In saws lately I have been running interceptor with a little lucas oil mixed in for color. I couldn't stand the stink of the lucas (and I'm guessing it's not very good oil anyway - no inspections to prove one way or the other). It's about time I pulled some mufflers and have a look...

Every engine runs differently, even "identical" ones. We had a couple of cr85's years ago that were just a few serial #'s apart. They required different jetting to behave about the same. The bikes were racing bikes, so we were picky.

The saws just need to run well and not be problematic. No spooge, no carbon, residual oil, that's it.
 
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