Oil Ratio

[Chevboy0167]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2605838127...1H93+9CxGCx7/aBTWl4KZRKQ==|tkp:Bk9SR4q--LyaZQ

 

[whodatschrome]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/260583812740?_skw=Rekhaoil&itmmeta=01JK9WY3VQES0X7Z4ZTAPGAY0K&hash=item3cac016e84:g:FfYAAOSwnVxmmEEm&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAAwHoV3kP08IDx+KZ9MfhVJKk56A+jAIfOpCImnlcF1EwTPdXBmsOqhqcThTsAJ7ZIWRHSEq/WtbITAJMTntmyHnFTxy8kYw6ogAKNP2uJ5Pej1vaKmn6v1shwBAkxS1Q8+levxTLQP3tw4gfaU9gDhJJlt2zrha61kcQdR5Lg4bHnn9+Tc6arKD/Ks8QPjHMlVebMVCI9AwbDFt61NEBPaUZTqslaJzfTHT/jNapnSQ1H93+9CxGCx7/aBTWl4KZRKQ==|tkp:Bk9SR4q--LyaZQ

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Definitely an option, and looks like it would be the viable solution, but i really don’t want to have another something that i have to mix in with my fuel…along with having to spend even more $$. Now if amsoil decided to take it upon themselves to add a dye, then i would stand up and applaud them.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Definitely an option, and looks like it would be the viable solution, but i really don’t want to have another something that i have to mix in with my fuel…along with having to spend even more $$. Now if amsoil decided to take it upon themselves to add a dye, then i would stand up and applaud them.

It’s for oil injection systems. Used in the right application there is no need for dye. Try Saber or dominator to avoid the issue.

 

[holeycow]

I just use a splash of a coloured mix oil to colour my interceptor mix. Currently, my interceptor mix is blue.

 

[gary courtney]

40:1 Schaeffers

 

[whodatschrome]

It’s for oil injection systems. Used in the right application there is no need for dye. Try Saber or dominator to avoid the issue.

I had been using dominator for years in both my saws and my oil injection 2 stoke motos. I would buy it by the case, but i decided to give the interceptor a try. I bought a case of it, then instantly found out that it was transparent. After i used up the case i switched back to dominator.

 

[skippymud]

I just started using a 40:1 mix after years of doing 50:1. Did this because I run both old (60s/70s) and newer saws and lawn equipment

It is my understanding that in the 60s, we were recommended to run a simple SAE30 oil at a very rich ratio. But come to the present; the technology of 2-stroke oil off the shelf (Echo for me) allows all of us to run a leaner mix while not causing harm to the saw, trimmer, anything 2-stroke

 

[Johnwell]

It’s for oil injection systems. Used in the right application there is no need for dye. Try Saber or dominator to avoid the issue.

Haven’t used saber, but dominator doesn’t play well with power valves in low rpm settings; ie: for slower trail riding. Plus amsoil puts right on the bottle that you can use it for premix applications. It would be really nice if it was just slightly tinted.

 

[bwalker]

The main reason i quit using Interceptor was that it’s very difficult if not impossible to tell if my fuel jugs had been mixed with it or not. Amsoil definitely should have used some sort of color dye in it. I didn’t want to risk accidentally straight gassing any of my saws, so i quit using the stuff.

It's nothing special and it's made for injector use.

 

[bwalker]

Haven’t used saber, but dominator doesn’t play well with power valves in low rpm settings; ie: for slower trail riding. Plus amsoil puts right on the bottle that you can use it for premix applications. It would be really nice if it was just slightly tinted.

Because you can use it, doesn't mean it's ideal or you should

 

[bwalker]

I did a lot of experimentation years ago trying to achieve a clean burn at near 30:1 in various dirt bikes. Yamalube, HP2, motul 800 and 600?, amsoil dominator and interceptor, elf something or other (I forget), and a few others. There were only two oils that burned clean at 30:1. The amsoil dominator (for moto) and interceptor (for enduro) burned clean with no spooge (a dry-to-moist grey to light brown tail pipe and light brown to almost grey-ish plug) and no excessive carbon. The elf oil was similar, but basically not available in my world, unfortunately. I'd say the elf was the best oil, all around, but kind of a guess, really. All of the others were spoogy and dirty unless running at 40-45:1, which I don't do. Top ends in these bikes were regularly serviced: about 15-20 hours in 125's (pushing it for cost considerations) and 40-50 hours in 250's. I don't run heavy mixes for the top ends, I run them for the bottom ends. We were seeing ridiculous high hours on bottom ends and, for the most part rebuilt bottom ends just because, for example, about 250 hours on a ktm200 bottom end seemed like time to redo even though there would be "0" rod play. The 125's went into the mid 100's of hours. Easily. Always replaced the wrist pin bearing even with just a ring change to eliminate the possibility of "hammering". Jetted for torque most of the time, etc, etc. The '08 200xc, one of the '06 CR125's, and an '05 kdx220 are still running perfectly today, tho not getting as much use as before.

Chainsaws are more forgiving. I ran some stihl oil for a while and found terrible carbon build up. And it stinks. I'm not nearly as picky with saws or other equipment. Bikes are not allowed to break, lest ye break yourself...

In saws lately I have been running interceptor with a little lucas oil mixed in for color. I couldn't stand the stink of the lucas (and I'm guessing it's not very good oil anyway - no inspections to prove one way or the other). It's about time I pulled some mufflers and have a look...

Every engine runs differently, even "identical" ones. We had a couple of cr85's years ago that were just a few serial #'s apart. They required different jetting to behave about the same. The bikes were racing bikes, so we were picky.

The saws just need to run well and not be problematic. No spooge, no carbon, residual oil, that's it.

Running clean, spooge, etc arr all a by product of poor tuning and low load.

 

[Chainsaw Pete]

Definitely an option, and looks like it would be the viable solution, but i really don’t want to have another something that i have to mix in with my fuel…along with having to spend even more $$.

One fluid oz = 28,350 mg. The recommended dosage is 5 to 20 mg/l, so that one ounce bottle will treat 44 to11 gallons. Not a huge expense, but yes, it is one more thing to deal with. Somebody check my math, please.