OK Husky NUTS here's little big man...

[MtnHermit]

Trail Saw

My dealer was finally able to get my new 435 in yesterday and I couldn't wait to try it out. I've been in the market for a new small "trail saw" and thought the new 435 might just fit the bill.

Do you do trail maintenance with your 435? If so, how do you carry it? Did you swap the piston from the 440? What do you think about the 435 a year+ later?

I read this entire thread, learned a lot. My refurb 435 arrives Tuesday.

Thanks for any reply.

 

[espace]

Bought a Husqvarna 435 for trail maintenance

Do you do trail maintenance with your 435? If so, how do you carry it? Did you swap the piston from the 440? What do you think about the 435 a year+ later?

I read this entire thread, learned a lot. My refurb 435 arrives Tuesday.

Thanks for any reply.

Bump. I second that this thread was very informative. I visited a Husky dealer, intending to look at the 339xp, the 235, and the 435. I came home with a 435. I love it so far. I zips through a year-old pile of branches in my yard that are too dry to chip easily. I also used it to remove a maple tree that was blocking a nearby trail. I haven't figured out a good way to carry it yet, but at 3 pounds lighter than my 455, it's not a big deal for now.

Just don't use it for ripping oak rounds.

 

[MtnHermit]

Bump. I second that this thread was very informative. I visited a Husky dealer, intending to look at the 339xp, the 235, and the 435. I came home with a 435. I love it so far. I zips through a year-old pile of branches in my yard that are too dry to chip easily. I also used it to remove a maple tree that was blocking a nearby trail. I haven't figured out a good way to carry it yet, but at 3 pounds lighter than my 455, it's not a big deal for now.

I use seat belt webbing and a Fastek buckle over my shoulder and through the wrap bar. I carried it 6-miles one day, it was an 8-mile day, I stashed it at 6 and came back the next day. I hit the wall. :msp_ohmy:

 

[Denis Gionet]

I've got about 3 cords of firewood cut with mine, bought new this spring. Also been ripping some Poplar and Cedar trees for a shed I'm building. It's no XP but it sure hauls in the cedar, especially with a ripping chain ! I clean mine out regularly and just use a shortened wood-handled snow brush, which stays in the saw box with the saw. It gets a quick cleaning whenever I swap chains or after a weekend of cutting.

Surprisingly the oiler supplies enough oil for ripping long planks, I've never run the bar dry while ripping yet. The chain never gets tight or feels stiff in the bar due to oil shortage. I was skeptical when I saw the XP's had an adjustable oiler, but found the oil output on the 435 to be fine. And it's good on fuel too !

If it's true that the 440 has a higher-compression piston, then I'll be ordering one soon :msp_wink:

In the meantime, here's what I've been doing with mine ....

View attachment 244857View attachment 244858View attachment 244859

 

[SkippyKtm]

That's a lot of work from that little saw...

 

[MtnHermit]

but found the oil output on the 435 to be fine. And it's good on fuel too !

Agree on both counts, oil flow is just right and I need a break long before it runs out of gas.

If it's true that the 440 has a higher-compression piston, then I'll be ordering one soon

If you do, please start a new thread with a full report. I'll be very interested.

Looks like a teepee, most likely for the little people who ride the bikes.

I tried this with my 455 using the OEM chain, wandered all over. How were you able to cut such straight planks?

 

[Denis Gionet]

It's a little saw, but it's got a big heart ! I'm VERY impressed with it what it does for me, it whips my BIL's 51 BAD.

Has anyone else noticed that it runs better when hot, like, REALLY hot ? Seems to run like a bag of skit when cold, but when it warms up it runs WAY better. And no, it's not too lean.... although 12,000+ rpm sounds almost scary ! It 4-strokes just a tad on wot and settles down in the cut.

I tried this with my 455 using the OEM chain, wandered all over. How were you able to cut such straight planks?

These planks were done with a ripping chain, full comp chisel, but the cutters are factory filed at a 10 degree angle, almost straight. It almost doubles your cutting speed, over the OEM chain, and makes longer chips. Doesn't seem to cross-cut as well, but in the rip, it's the winner. I couldn't say which exact chain type it was, although it is an Oregon. The dealer knew what I was looking for and keeps a roll on hand.

The boards on the back wall (also in the other pic, in the bush with the saw on them) were 13 feet long, then cut to length for the shed. I have tried a few setups, but the best one is having the log horizontally mounted on blocks of wood about 1 foot above the ground, wedged in snug so they don't roll. That puts the saw at the right height for me to hold it comfortably, while keeping my eyes in line with the bar, as well as the beginning of the cut. I also noodle the beginning of the log for each cut, giving me 16" of straight line to start with, to have a good starting point.

I think the trick is to keep the bar and the start of the cut as equal as possible, thereby making even, straight planks, with a minimum of waste. I can get 5 planks now from a tree about 12" in diameter, 6 or more from a 14 incher. However, if you screw one up you waste material for another plank.

Go to your dealer and have him make you a loop of ripping chain. If he knows anything about saws, he'll know what to give you.

 

[SawTroll]

Actually I can. It does seem quite a bit lighter. And the 346 is already a fairly light saw.

Al

Surely it is - and it damn well should be! :msp_wink:

It is also lighter than its cheaper Poulan made alteratives (2xx series).

 

[MtnHermit]

These planks were done with a ripping chain, full comp chisel, but the cutters are factory filed at a 10 degree angle, almost straight. It almost doubles your cutting speed, over the OEM chain, and makes longer chips. Doesn't seem to cross-cut as well, but in the rip, it's the winner. I couldn't say which exact chain type it was, although it is an Oregon. The dealer knew what I was looking for and keeps a roll on hand.

The boards on the back wall (also in the other pic, in the bush with the saw on them) were 13 feet long, then cut to length for the shed. I have tried a few setups, but the best one is having the log horizontally mounted on blocks of wood about 1 foot above the ground, wedged in snug so they don't roll. That puts the saw at the right height for me to hold it comfortably, while keeping my eyes in line with the bar, as well as the beginning of the cut. I also noodle the beginning of the log for each cut, giving me 16" of straight line to start with, to have a good starting point.

I think the trick is to keep the bar and the start of the cut as equal as possible, thereby making even, straight planks, with a minimum of waste. I can get 5 planks now from a tree about 12" in diameter, 6 or more from a 14 incher. However, if you screw one up you waste material for another plank.

Go to your dealer and have him make you a loop of ripping chain. If he knows anything about saws, he'll know what to give you.

I really appreciate your explanation but my addled brain can't put it together. Perhaps you have a video or you'll do a video next time you make planks.

Here's a 2-min video I made of a 22-min trail blow down: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/203185.htm
Curious if you hear anything in the engine tune? Clearly you are much higher on the chainsaw curve than I.

Thanks

 

[Trailtrimmer]

I use seat belt webbing and a Fastek buckle over my shoulder and through the wrap bar. I carried it 6-miles one day, it was an 8-mile day, I stashed it at 6 and came back the next day. I hit the wall. :msp_ohmy:

I use one of these guys while on the mountain bike and typically just hand carry while on foot.

Dakine Bike : Builder's Pack

Look around, they can be found for about $50 less.

 

[Denis Gionet]

[video=facebook;319202461482495]https://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=319202461482495[/video]

Take a peek at this. This was taken the weekend after my saw had seized, from having being adjusted too lean from the factory. Warranty repaired and returned within 3 days. It sounds ok in this vid, but it's definitely stronger now. I'll get a video and some pics of how I set up to cut planks, and one of the chain I got for ripping.

This is the first tank of gas I ran in it after the repairs, was just breaking it in. It now cuts full-bar in a tree faster than it cut the cookies in the video here. I have to wonder which piston he put in it now ... In fact, I'm getting a 20" bar and chain soon, for the planking ! I'm sure it'll have no trouble handling the extra length, so long as I'm not forcing it.

 

[espace]

I use one of these guys while on the mountain bike and typically just hand carry while on foot.

Dakine Bike : Builder's Pack

Look around, they can be found for about $50 less.

Thanks for the tip. There's an elaborate set of trails behind my house. I try to keep clear what I can walk to, but this could increase my range.

 

[espace]

Trail strap works

i tried out the trail strap today. I used the strap from my weedwacker, along with a velcro strap to provide a solid anchor for the clip. I need to find a wider strap and/or some padding, but it was fine for today's mission (about a mile round-trip).

The 435 is really light, and seems to work fine as a trail saw. On the way home, I cut through a 15.5" trunk of a tree I had already cleared with my 455. The 435 worked just fine. The tree was long-dead standing deadwood, though, so that helped.

 

[TK]

These planks were done with a ripping chain, full comp chisel, but the cutters are factory filed at a 10 degree angle, almost straight.

I'm no authority on ripping chain but I thought ripping chains were semi chisel? I've ground a few chisels 10 degrees but real ripping chains I thought were semi.

Anybody?

 

[mecreature]

Damn Denis, I have a 435 and have used it quite a bit. I would have never tried to tackle what you are doing with it. LOL

good job.

thanks for posting the pics

I would like to see some of these Hot Saw guys dig into some of these.
A list of swappable parts would be cool to have.

 

[Denis Gionet]

I'm no authority on ripping chain but I thought ripping chains were semi chisel? I've ground a few chisels 10 degrees but real ripping chains I thought were semi.

Anybody?

You're right, this one IS semi-chisel, I only noticed yesterday. Sorry for the oops.

I also saw a thing online about trimming the top plate of 2 consecutive cutters, then leaving the 3rd intact, etc. etc. I modd'd my ripping chain like this and will likely try it out on the weekend (although I've got almost nothing left to rip... I'll find some somewhere !)

 

[hamish]

Dennis, dont bother modifying your Oregon 95R to a Granberg style grind, it is not worth the effort, makes shrpening more troublesome, and the final finish of the cut is no different.

The 435 and 440 have the same piston and cylinders, just in case this hasn't been answered yet!

 

[MtnHermit]

The 435 and 440 have the same piston and cylinders, just in case this hasn't been answered yet!

I'm reasonably sure the 440 piston has a different part number and it has higher compression. That would account for the power difference.

 

[hamish]

I'm reasonably sure the 440 piston has a different part number and it has higher compression. That would account for the power difference.

There is no power difference, the initial ipl showed different part numbers, they are all the same now. Never believe any specs you read, thats just marketing.

Piston and cylinder are the same and have the same part number, so it would have to be the flux capacitor, and sealed muffler bearing that are making the difference.

 

[MtnHermit]

There is no power difference, the initial ipl showed different part numbers, they are all the same now. Never believe any specs you read, thats just marketing.

So if you compare the two, Husky 435 vs 440, and ignore the chain tensioner, two differences appear:

1. HP, you already checked the IPL, same P&C, so creative copy writing
2. Smart Start, hard to imagine an easier starter than the 435, another vapor feature?

If no difference, then it's $10 extra for the chain tensioner, most consumers would pay that but and an extra 0.58 pounds ugh! I bought mine mostly for a trail saw, carried it 6-miles one day, weight matters.