I think I may have figured out something I've been missing. The pictograms on the saw cover aren't settings, they're simply amounts the jets can be turned with the limiters in place. I assume the jets are factory set, and then the limiters are placed, which only allow a certain amount of adjustment outside of the preset range.
Ok, I've been defeated...
- Thread starter Jason280
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Beer Gut
A Fine Pilsner
Yup. 1/4 and 3/4 with caps in. 1 full each caps out,
Beer Gut
A Fine Pilsner
And these are starter settings. Need to fine tune from there.
Guess its time for a quick update. I went ahead and picked up a carb rebuild kit, and replaced the impulse line from the carb to the crankcase. Just an FYI, swapping out the impulse hose is an absolute PITA on this saw. I don't know if it is necessarily any easier on other saws, but it was aggravating to say the least on the 066.
I rebuilt the carb, and the arm on the replacement fuel meter lever is definitely sitting higher than the previous. The diaphragm on the replacement is also more pliable, but I am not sure if both of these will correct my problem. I haven't been able to test the saw yet as I managed to split the in-tank fuel line. I pulled it out to check it, and messed around and split the hose pumping air through it to check for leaks. I guess its possible the area was already compromised, not sure, but its now definitely fubar'd. Won't be able to get a replacement until tomorrow, so hopefully I will have some good news to report then.
I rebuilt the carb, and the arm on the replacement fuel meter lever is definitely sitting higher than the previous. The diaphragm on the replacement is also more pliable, but I am not sure if both of these will correct my problem. I haven't been able to test the saw yet as I managed to split the in-tank fuel line. I pulled it out to check it, and messed around and split the hose pumping air through it to check for leaks. I guess its possible the area was already compromised, not sure, but its now definitely fubar'd. Won't be able to get a replacement until tomorrow, so hopefully I will have some good news to report then.
Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
I NEVER have any spare time, and I'm seldom at the shop.... Right now I'm about 45 saws deep (seriously,) and I have a 440 to build for one of our shop barnacles. Iffin' you don't need it for a long time, bring it up to Carrollton. I'll jerk a knot in its tail.
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
it's not just that saw. it's every stihl!
there's no denying stihls are much harder to work on but of course, the stihl guys will always disagree 
Your problem from the start was the needles. Disregard any picture on the side of the filter cover. Might as put tape over the picture for good. Bottom them both out. Back em out 1.5 turns each, and tune from there. Put the old parts back in the carb - they weren't the problem.
Well, success of sorts today. I was able to get the saw to fire and run, but its pretty much returned to its original condition. I started with each jet one turn out, and I'm still chasing a revving idle. I have been able to get the saw to idle, but still having a little hesitation advancing the throttle, and the saw is still slow to drop back to idle after releasing the throttle. Seems it wants to hang around 4-5k RPMs when you drop the throttle, but will eventually return to idle speed. I tried cutting a little bit, and she seemed to be a little sluggish in the cut.
I guess my next direction is to pressure/vacuum test the crankcase and go from there. I do know I am still getting 150psi compression with the handle, so that is OK. Piston looks absolutely spotless through both the intake and exhaust ports, so I am not sure what the problem is.
Any suggestions?
I guess my next direction is to pressure/vacuum test the crankcase and go from there. I do know I am still getting 150psi compression with the handle, so that is OK. Piston looks absolutely spotless through both the intake and exhaust ports, so I am not sure what the problem is.
Any suggestions?
kyle.kipple
ArboristSite Guru
When the saw does finally return to normal idle, turn the saw on its side to see if the idle changes at all.
1.5 out each. Not just one turn. You're lean. That's your revving problem.
I suspect that you have an air leak. Your carb needles should not need to be out 1 1/2 turns.
+ 1, When they don't come down to idle after a WOT run, and the throttle linkage is fine, then it's most likely an air leak.
Beer Gut
A Fine Pilsner
Yes and that's why your idle is screwy might even settle down at times when you richer the L screw enough but goes to hell when you rev it.
Could be a base gasket gone bad, a hose loose(intake manifold) leaky impulse bad decomp button, case halves gasket failure , and brrrrrrrrrump drum roll please........failed oil seals on the crank bearings
Those are the big areas( macro) pressure testing will locate. Get them off the list then we can go micro.
Those are the big areas( macro) pressure testing will locate. Get them off the list then we can go micro.
Too numerous, you need to fab up a pressure tester, less than $20 for parts. Blood pressure bulb, 15 # guage, & a tee from Flea-Bay and then cut/drill a blinding plate with a barb fitting for the exhaust port.
Lots cheaper than replacing the top end.
Brian Carlson
ArboristSite Guru
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2014
- Messages
- 599
- Reaction score
- 265
Take your stops off and run your mixture screws all the way in. Back them off 1.5 turns and it should start and tune from there. Think your limiters are messing ya up
well,husky has gone to rubber intake boots that are problematicit's not just that saw. it's every stihl!
but I agree about them Its as if they deliberately engineer their
saws to aggrivate you,d think they lost something really
significant to them and its our fault
Similar threads
