OK, so maybe I don't always know...

[Whitespider]

Talkin' 'bout two-cycle mix oil in this one.

Quick history...

1. In many threads I've stated I see no need for synthetic oils... It ain't that I recommend against 'em, just that I see no need.
2. We have an old '74 Harley Davidson two-cycle golf cart that gets used as a utility vehicle, neighborhood run-a-bout, and woodlot toy... with the governor removed and the abuse it receives, I put a set of rings or piston in it near every year.
3. Last time I put a piston in the cart was over a year ago... late summer 2012. At that time I switched two-cycle oil and started using AMSOIL Interceptor full synthetic; I figured what the heck, it's worth a shot and it only cost a couple bucks more than what I was using.

Well, last weekend the cart started makin' noise and lost power on the way home from the neighbors place (about a mile away). I nursed it home, and backed it in the shop... figured it was "that time" again, likely broke another ring. So last night I finally get around to pulling the jug to inspect damage... needed to know if I should be ordering a piston or just rings (or worse). I could hardly believe what I found in there. The first thing I noticed when I pulled the head was I could still read the stamping on the piston top... zero, I mean zero carbon. Flipping the head over I found it to be cleaner than when I put the darn thing on last time... just a little carbon in the "corners". Next I slid the cylinder off; that piston, and the rings, looked like they hadn't even been used yet... I ain't kiddin', I could put 'em back in the box and almost pass 'em off as new. I'd bet I stood there staring for 10-15 minutes trying to make sense of what I was seeing. As hard as it is for me to admit... I can only conclude that the full synthetic two-cycle oil gets all the credit for what I found.

OK.. OK... so sometimes I'm full-o-crap and speak when I should be listening...
My next "new" two-cycle anything, or next cylinder rebuild, is gonna' start life on a full synthetic diet.

Oh... the cart lost power because a piece of casting from the air horn broke loose and got wedged in the reed valve.
And no matter how hard I try, I just can't find a way to blame the oil for that
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[svk]

Just curious as to what ratio you were mixing at?

 

[lone wolf]

Talkin' 'bout two-cycle mix oil in this one.

Quick history...

1. In many threads I've stated I see no need for synthetic oils... It ain't that I recommend against 'em, just that I see no need.
2. We have an old '74 Harley Davidson two-cycle golf cart that gets used as a utility vehicle, neighborhood run-a-bout, and woodlot toy... with the governor removed and the abuse it receives, I put a set of rings or piston in it near every year.
3. Last time I put a piston in the cart was over a year ago... late summer 2012. At that time I switched two-cycle oil and started using AMSOIL Interceptor full synthetic; I figured what the heck, it's worth a shot and it only cost a couple bucks more than what I was using.

Well, last weekend the cart started makin' noise and lost power on the way home from the neighbors place (about a mile away). I nursed it home, and backed it in the shop... figured it was "that time" again, likely broke another ring. So last night I finally get around to pulling the jug to inspect damage... needed to know if I should be ordering a piston or just rings (or worse). I could hardly believe what I found in there. The first thing I noticed when I pulled the head was I could still read the stamping on the piston top... zero, I mean zero carbon. Flipping the head over I found it to be cleaner than when I put the darn thing on last time... just a little carbon in the "corners". Next I slid the cylinder off; that piston, and the rings, looked like they hadn't even been used yet... I ain't kiddin', I could put 'em back in the box and almost pass 'em off as new. I'd bet I stood there staring for 10-15 minutes trying to make sense of what I was seeing. As hard as it is for me to admit... I can only conclude that the full synthetic two-cycle oil gets all the credit for what I found.

OK.. OK... so sometimes I'm full-o-crap and speak when I should be listening...
My next "new" two-cycle anything, or next cylinder rebuild, is gonna' start life on a full synthetic diet.

Oh... the cart lost power because a piece of casting from the air horn broke loose and got wedged in the reed valve.
And no matter how hard I try, I just can't find a way to blame the oil for that
*

Same oil I run in all the saws etc never burned up yet.

 

[GM_Grimmy]

I dislike AMSoil, as I've heard too many bad things about it. The short, it's too slippery, and I know people that rebuilt and used it and ruined fresh rebuilt motors because of that oil. I'll use a different brand. I prefer regular 2 stroke oil till break in is done, then I'll switch, so things seat properly as they should. My $.02.

 

[Whitespider]

Just curious as to what ratio you were mixing at?

I'm a firm believer in following the label... it says, "Use as injection oil or 50:1 premix..."
So... I mix it 50:1.

I dislike AMSoil, as I've heard too many bad things about it. The short, it's too slippery, and I know people that rebuilt and used it and ruined fresh rebuilt motors because of that oil. I'll use a different brand. I prefer regular 2 stroke oil till break in is done, then I'll switch, so things seat properly as they should. My $.02.

There's more than one AMSOIL two-stroke oil... are you talkin' 'bout all of 'em?? That seems a bit too "general" don't ya' think??
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[GM_Grimmy]

I'm a firm believer in following the label... it says, "Use as injection oil or 50:1 premix..."
So... I mix it 50:1.


There's more than one AMSOIL two-stroke oil... are you talkin' 'bout all of 'em?? That seems a bit too "general" don't ya' think??
*

The case I was referring to was actually 4 stroke oil. Either way, it's enough to make me not use it. I'll take my chances and use a "cheaper" synthetic. AMSOil I'll just use to help start the fire in the fire pit.

 

[KenJax Tree]

The only thing wrong with Amsoil is their marketing. They make excellent oil.

 

[svk]

The only thing wrong with Amsoil is their marketing. They make excellent oil.

So you don't believe in "drink the kool aid" marketing either?

 

[KenJax Tree]

Spidy now that the synthetic oil thing is settled we need to work on the radial vs. bias-ply tire thing.

 

[KenJax Tree]

So you don't believe in "drink the kool aid marketing" either?

No i don't believe it, and i wouldn't use Saber @ 100:1. All my 4 cycle gets Amsoil.

 

[Hinerman]

I use the amsoil Saber Professional synthetic 2-stroke oil at 40:1. Seems to work fine for me. I try different oils so I am not brand loyal. I have a bottle of Opt-2 to try next. I use Lucas synthetic in my 4 cycle equipment; not going to try anything else in that area.

 

[lone wolf]

When I get an oil related failure I will stop using it and I dont think it is going to happen . I have been using it a couple years steady now. all the saws made it through Super storm sandy and still running.

 

[greenskeeper]

2-cycle engine life can be charted against oil/gas ratio and fuel/air ratio. Synthetics are molecularly better oil compared to non.

 

[Whitespider]

I try different oils so I am not brand loyal. I have a bottle of Opt-2 to try next.

I normally don't recommend against something unless I've actually, personally tried it... in this case I'll recommend against it anyway.
My neighbor bought some of that Opti-2 a couple years back at a home show or some such, in individual packets pre-measured for 1 gallon of gas (100:1 I think). I'm not makin' this up... his weed-whip lasted all of 3 minutes before it seized. He figured it was a fluke chance happening, drove to town and bought a new weed whip, filled it up with the same mix... and it didn't run a ¼ tank of gas before it made a rattle and seized. So he takes it back to the Toro/Echo/something-else-I-don't-remember dealer and they told him it had been run without oil in the gas (I know that gas had the Opti-2 in it, I watched him mix it). Evidently my neighbor ain't so bright... 'cause he had to burned-up his leaf blower before he tossed the stuff.

 

[olyman]

Spidy now that the synthetic oil thing is settled we need to work on the radial vs. bias-ply tire thing.

suuuuure.....good luck on that one...........

 

[zogger]

I normally don't recommend against something unless I've actually, personally tried it... in this case I'll recommend against it anyway.
My neighbor bought some of that Opti-2 a couple years back at a home show or some such, in individual packets pre-measured for 1 gallon of gas (100:1 I think). I'm not makin' this up... his weed-whip lasted all of 3 minutes before it seized. He figured it was a fluke chance happening, drove to town and bought a new weed whip, filled it up with the same mix... and it didn't run a ¼ tank of gas before it made a rattle and seized. So he takes it back to the Toro/Echo/something-else-I-don't-remember dealer and they told him it had been run without oil in the gas (I know that gas had the Opti-2 in it, I watched him mix it). Evidently my neighbor ain't so bright... 'cause he had to burned-up his leaf blower before he tossed the stuff.

I am not even going to think about running 100:1. I mean, how cheap can ya get?

If the major builders here recommend belray h1r at 32:1...I ain't arguing. When I use up my echo powerblend, which is good stuff with stabilizer in it, I have a bottle of the belray to try.

 

[CTYank]

Been using pure syn 40-50:1 since it was available, late '70s. My Echos from back when still run like new, and never had to scrub ports or muffler. (Haven't seen any dino oil yet that meets JASO FC/FD specs. Nor does Stihl Ultra. )

The little 22 cc trimmer/brushcutter has probably thousands of hours on it, and may well see another. It did need a carb rebuild and a couple of clutch shoes- big deal. Changed the plug once.

 

[mainewoods]

Ahhhhh, another oil thread.

 

[Hinerman]

I normally don't recommend against something unless I've actually, personally tried it... in this case I'll recommend against it anyway.
My neighbor bought some of that Opti-2 a couple years back at a home show or some such, in individual packets pre-measured for 1 gallon of gas (100:1 I think). I'm not makin' this up... his weed-whip lasted all of 3 minutes before it seized. He figured it was a fluke chance happening, drove to town and bought a new weed whip, filled it up with the same mix... and it didn't run a ¼ tank of gas before it made a rattle and seized. So he takes it back to the Toro/Echo/something-else-I-don't-remember dealer and they told him it had been run without oil in the gas (I know that gas had the Opti-2 in it, I watched him mix it). Evidently my neighbor ain't so bright... 'cause he had to burned-up his leaf blower before he tossed the stuff.

Thanks for the advice. I will keep that in mind. I will do some research and may take it back.

If you use the opti-2 packets it comes out to 71:1. I will run mine at 40:1. My previous dealer (echo/husqy) pushed it hard; he sent everything out the door with opti-2. My current dealer (stihl/exmark) is pushing the stuff now...I am not sure of the exact stipulations, but current dealer is offering 4 yr warranty if you use opti-2 in any Stihl 2-stroke and the opti-4 in 4-stroke equipment. The Opti company backs the warranty. They have flyers on almost every piece of equipment in the store.

I used the opti-2 a couple of years ago at 71:1 in a couple gallons without problems. I didn't know it was 71:1 at the time, never paid attention to the amount of oil, just followed the instructions. Then I found AS and that all changed. I mix everything at 40:1 now.

 

[Whitespider]

Just my opinion... but...
If you mix it (any oil) richer than what the label says... you're making a mistake.
And over-rich mix, even mixing a 50:1 oil at 40:1, will actually cause the engine to run hotter, force the engine to work harder because of power loss, and increase the chances of pre-ignition and/or detonation... it don't take very darn much extra to be a problem. The only time you should mix "rich" is during a short break-in period when the engine won't be worked hard or run at full throttle. I will be just a bit careful here and say I don't know for positive that's exactly the same "rule-of-thumb" with synthetics... but at the same time, I can't see how it would be different either.
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