OK Stihl GURU's

[Lakeside53]

Piston skirt wear, either intake, exhaust or both. Just doesn't seal the intake as well or as quickly.

 

[Sprig]

Off-the-cuff-know-nothing remark on the crank pics. It seems to me (as others previously said) that anything that would cause that sort of gouging while the saw was running would also cause all sorts of damage elsewhere (like the piston skirt etc. etc.), so the most sensible answer is that those marks were there at manufacture, maybe when pressing the bearing assembly in? dunno, but I see small serrations on the other side of the crank too. What makes me think this is that the gouges are (or appear to be) all around it so something actually hitting it that hard would be flung around all over the place and you'd think that a chunk of metal being flung around with that much force would do much damage to the case etc.? Could they be there for balance/weight reduction? Correcting a bad cast? How about it was a sloppy fit and someone whacked it all around to tighten it up? Just curious to see if the is a definative answer out of this as I've never seen anything like it before, so I'll continue to watch what the pro's have to say and add to the ol' learning curve.



Serge

 

[bcorradi]

Well if you dont like my Gauge tell Snap-On its only about 6 months old and their small engine kit...

This is why I have little respect for stihl cause everyone thinks they do no wrong!!!!
Scott

Aren't you doing the same thing with snap-on that causes you disrespect for stihl? It's a Snap-on tester so it has to be accurate.

I agree with Andy in concluding it is probably from an old injury or from a drunken stihl assembler.

I also don't think the pictures you posted is really a manufacturer dependant issue. It is extremely baffling how the piston and cylinder can be in the condition they are in, if the saw ingested something that caused the crank damage you have shown.

 

[cuttinscott]

Aren't you doing the same thing with snap-on that causes you disrespect for stihl? It's a Snap-on tester so it has to be accurate.

I agree with Andy in concluding it is probably from an old injury or from a drunken stihl assembler.

I also don't think the pictures you posted is really a manufacturer dependant issue. It is extremely baffling how the piston and cylinder can be in the condition they are in, if the saw ingested something that caused the crank damage you have shown.

It is a accurate gauge has give many readings just fine...
Maybe Stihl needs to do more Drug and Alcohol test on its assemblers LOL..
This saw is not that old and should not be worn out yet. I WAS surprised at the dings in the crank thats why I posted these pics to see if this is the norm or something from the Twilight Zone??

Lake did not mean to get revved up earlier just blew a fuse is all..

Scott

 

[Woodsrover]

Hey Scott, if this or any of the others end up on the scrap pile, let me know. I'll take them off your hands! I'm coming up there for the GTG in a month anyway!

Jim

 

[klickitatsacket]

cuttinscott, I know you are proud of what you sell and some times you feel that your product does not get the respect you think it deserves. However you will have to admit that this is a fluke and not the norm for the 200T. This is the top handle that all others are judged by.

BTW I think trigger got it right I have seen similar marks on cranks before. I think you knew though what you were looking at because you did not show us any damage on the underside of the piston skirts or in the bottom of the crank case. to dent a crank that hard any how would have torn the pizz out of the soft aluminum components.

 

[Freakingstang]

MY snap on compression tester reads 200 psi on my 066.....!!!! LOL


As for the needle coming out, were the caps on it? I have ran into this with carbs on saws that have a lot of use and a lot of screwdriver time on them. You can use loctite on the end closest to the screw head (not the needle side) or you can booger the threads a little. Just have to be carefull not to bend the needle.

I've seen other cranks like that, that appear to be from the assembly process. I have never had a 020 or 200T torn down, though

 

[cuttinscott]

MY snap on compression tester reads 200 psi on my 066.....!!!! LOL


As for the needle coming out, were the caps on it? I have ran into this with carbs on saws that have a lot of use and a lot of screwdriver time on them. You can use loctite on the end closest to the screw head (not the needle side) or you can booger the threads a little. Just have to be carefull not to bend the needle.

I've seen other cranks like that, that appear to be from the assembly process. I have never had a 020 or 200T torn down, though

I know how to make the screw not come loose and this guy DOES NOT TRY to adjust his own saws I am the only one who does this for him. this carb did have springs on the screws- not a tight class thread like Lake mentioned, the carb is a C1Q S32

Scott

 

[Al Smith]

Most likely the marks on the crank,somewhat serrated ,are from the press used to assemble the crank/rod assembley.The others could just possibley be a part that "got through" the inspection ,it happens.What ever the case is,if the thing got dinged inside the saw,the pieces should be in the crankcase some where.If they had passed through the cylinder that thing would have came apart like a dollar watch.

Now the carb thing.Perhaps a year ago I recieved a 200T carb from Australia to analize.It appeared as though the carb was defective from the factory which just happen to be in Japan,how 'bout that.The thing had casting flaws.After further discussion on forums I'm not allowed to mention,there seemed to be several defective carbs on then new 200 T s.It is entirely possible this could have been one of them.If so,look for a tiny crack right in the proximity of the fuel lever.You will need a magnifying glass unless you have eyes of an eagle.

 

[Lou]

It is a accurate gauge has give many readings just fine...
Maybe Stihl needs to do more Drug and Alcohol test on its assemblers LOL..
This saw is not that old and should not be worn out yet. I WAS surprised at the dings in the crank thats why I posted these pics to see if this is the norm or something from the Twilight Zone??

Lake did not mean to get revved up earlier just blew a fuse is all..

Scott

Package it up and send it to me (Compression Tester). Pressure gauges are one of the things I calibrate. For you Scott if in no HUGE rush, calibration is free!!!
Most pressure gauges are rated 3%/2%/3% (0-25%; 25-75%; 75-100%) percent of span accurate. a 0 to 100 PSI gauge can be 3 PSI in error at 10 PSI and meet accuracy requirements. NO gauge should be used below 20% of span IMO and I refuse to certify a gauge below 10% of span. When purchasing a gauge I recommend normal use at roughly 70% of span.
Lou

 

[Lakeside53]

I know how to make the screw not come loose and this guy DOES NOT TRY to adjust his own saws I am the only one who does this for him. this carb did have springs on the screws- not a tight class thread like Lake mentioned, the carb is a C1Q S32

Scott

Hey, one of the good carbs! No limiter caps, adjusters with springs! Rare out here... I think I've only seen one on a 200T. Common on 20T's though. It's likely got a few years on it then. If he chucks the saw, I'll take the carb

In that case, I have no idea why the L screw came out... Does he have small children with screwdrivers?

 

[Trigger-Time]

Does he have small children with screwdrviers?

I took some good a$$ whoopins over **** like that.......

 

[Lakeside53]

... there seemed to be several defective carbs on then new 200 T s.It is entirely possible this could have been one of them.If so,look for a tiny crack right in the proximity of the fuel lever.You will need a magnifying glass unless you have eyes of an eagle.

I'm pretty sure those were the S61, S61A and S61 B

 

[Lakeside53]

I took some good a$$ whoopins over **** like that.......

you mean as a kid? if so,,, I was there too... and got the blame even if it wasn't me.:bang:

 

[Al Smith]

I'm pretty sure those were the S61, S61A and S61 B

Right you are,it is in fact an S61 a .I was incorrect the danged thing was made in China,figures,I suppose.

This amuses me,a German company using a Japanese carb[Zama] made in China,ha.

To further add to the mix,the saw was sold stateside and shipped to Australia.I wonder if the saw qualifies for frequent flyer miles.

 

[Lakeside53]

We're now up to 61F... Zama has eaten a lot of carbs... even way out of warranty. Sadly there are a lot of guys out there with the old carbs that are going to eventually pay for new...

I'm guessing but I'd have to bet that zama had problems with a lot more carbs that just this specific variant.. the C1Q family is used on a lot of OPE, and many different manf.

 

[Woodie]

you mean as a kid? if so,,, I was there too... and got the blame even if it wasn't me.:bang:

Speaking of kids...Hey Lakeside...don't you think it's about time you gave us another one of those What Went Wrong Here threads? (And here's a hint: It is.) If we don't get one soon, I will cry.

 

[Lakeside53]

I was thinking about taking my camera to work and recording a days service activities... maybe.

 

[Trigger-Time]

you mean as a kid? if so,,, I was there too... and got the blame even if it wasn't me.:bang:

Yes, as a kid............but still doing **** I need a butt kicking for.
Some of us never grow up!

 

[Woodie]

I was thinking about taking my camera to work and recording a days service activities... maybe.

Lakeside, I will go tantrum all over you...