Oklahoma,AR,MO,KS,TX GTG (Next GTG 08/27/2016 ) Fort Scott, KS

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Man, I'm gone for a few days and there's more hacking, Steve needs a new hip, ice, snow and idiots are combining to make accidents and we're all going to a porting class at Matt's... Holy Hell!!!
Howdy Y'all!!!! Got the 7.3 dually picked up today. It is nice to have 6 wheel drive with diesel motivation and manual control (outside of the fact that it isn't a GMC or a Dodge)!!!
 
Man, I'm gone for a few days and there's more hacking, Steve needs a new hip, ice, snow and idiots are combining to make accidents and we're all going to a porting class at Matt's... Holy Hell!!!
Howdy Y'all!!!! Got the 7.3 dually picked up today. It is nice to have 6 wheel drive with diesel motivation and manual control!!!
Hold on there Brian!!
When someone mentions class, one would assume there was a teacher... And I ain't one!!!
I need to attend someone else's class!!!
But if everyone wants to come over and poke one with a stick, I'm up for that...
 
Hold on there Brian!!
When someone mentions class, one would assume there was a teacher... And I ain't one!!!
I need to attend someone else's class!!!
But if everyone wants to come over and poke one with a stick, I'm up for that...
I just want to figure out how to read the numbers... I need to print off a degree wheel and make a jig that would fit on a saw. You've got just the place to meet, visit, and consume some beverages :)
 
Say guys; got a question about a saw.

My John Deere CS56 is having a little trouble running right. It starts well, has good compression, but bogs down a bit on acceleration, and then s l o w l y gets up to high RPM, and then sounds fine. It still lacks a lot of power in the cut, so it is no good on the job. I have been attempting to tweak the high & low idle screws, but that just won't take care of it.

My chainsaw mechanic-trainee took the carb out and cleaned it up, but didn't attempt to evaluate the stiffness of the diaphragms in the carb. After cleaning...no change at all.

Do you think a carb kit will fix it, or should I be looking elsewhere?
 
Say guys; got a question about a saw.

My John Deere CS56 is having a little trouble running right. It starts well, has good compression, but bogs down a bit on acceleration, and then s l o w l y gets up to high RPM, and then sounds fine. It still lacks a lot of power in the cut, so it is no good on the job. I have been attempting to tweak the high & low idle screws, but that just won't take care of it.

My chainsaw mechanic-trainee took the carb out and cleaned it up, but didn't attempt to evaluate the stiffness of the diaphragms in the carb. After cleaning...no change at all.

Do you think a carb kit will fix it, or should I be looking elsewhere?
I would jump on eBay and find a diaphragm kit for your carb... Usually $6 or $7 for the kit with free shipping. Is the plug known to be good? In my limited knowledge, when carb diaphragms get stiff, they start having trouble revving...
My $0.02
TFB
 
I'
Hold on there Brian!!
When someone mentions class, one would assume there was a teacher... And I ain't one!!!
I need to attend someone else's class!!!
But if everyone wants to come over and poke one with a stick, I'm up for that...

I've been looking for an excuse to go on a road trip...Professor. :laugh:
 
I would jump on eBay and find a diaphragm kit for your carb... Usually $6 or $7 for the kit with free shipping. Is the plug known to be good? In my limited knowledge, when carb diaphragms get stiff, they start having trouble revving...
My $0.02
TFB

Not hard to come by in my area; I have a major parts distributor a short distance from my employee's house. We even have a Walbro book, so we ordered the right parts by part number. We will have that in the morning.

Problem is, I don't want to just guess, take the dang thing apart and put it together again if someone has a better idea on what the problem is.

By the way: this machine has sat almost unused for at least 8 years, so I expect the diaphragms would need replacing even if they aren't the sole cause of the problem.
 
I just want to figure out how to read the numbers... I need to print off a degree wheel and make a jig that would fit on a saw. You've got just the place to meet, visit, and consume some beverages :)
That, we can do.. I'm free any time after this weekend...
And the shop has heat!!
 
Not hard to come by in my area; I have a major parts distributor a short distance from my employee's house. We even have a Walbro book, so we ordered the right parts by part number. We will have that in the morning.

Problem is, I don't want to just guess, take the dang thing apart and put it together again if someone has a better idea on what the problem is.

By the way: this machine has sat almost unused for at least 8 years, so I expect the diaphragms would need replacing even if they aren't the sole cause of the problem.
Replace your fuel and primer lines... Bet that fixes the problem... Those lines go bad where they go through the tank... Don't run the saw in its current state, it's lean..
 
I


I'm looking for that kind of truck right now. What are those things going for in your area?

More than I wanted to pay... All diesels are high here. OBS trucks are reasonable, but are usually beat up pretty bad. Mine has 210K on the clock, a new turbo, clutch, hpop, lift pumps and A LOT of small issues/body damage and I still gave $8.5K for it, AFTER he took off the over-sized cow-pusher and put a normal bumper back on with a brush guard. It will need 6 new tires in the next six months, a windshield when I feel like it and a a new backing for the front clip as the old one is damaged and the headlight mounts are fubar'd. I'm also going to have the frontend looked at as I'm not happy with the some of the sounds coming from the wheels/front axle...

I think that it was worth $5-6K honestly, but after stolen-taxpayer-money-for-clunkers, 6.0's being what they are and other factors I was hard-pressed find a 7.3 Superduty with less than 300K+ miles and a lot more wrong with it for any less. Many are much more and I didn't want an slushbox. Sellers tend to get mad when you offer them 3-5k less than asking price when the original tranny has 198K original miles on it... :eek: I Actually wanted a Dodge or a Duramax but a stick was a must as was 4x4 and they're even more proud of those... This truck may be a Fumins conversion some day as that would almost be the perfect truck, outside of a Cummins powered F-450 4x4, or International CXT 4x4... Probably not the answer you were looking for...

New Truck.jpg
 
I like manual transmissions. I don't think I'm that old, I'll be 57 next month, and I'm a product of the late 60's and 70's. Auto transmissions, power brake, A/C, power steering, all the modern goodies. Now everything is electronic. Push button 4wd. Shift on the fly 4wd. Push button windows. All very nice until you push the button and nothing happens. That's why I like MANUAL transmissions. Knobs and levers, that's the way to go. That's why I got my old Ford flatbed and why I got rid of my 2004 Mazda truck and got an older CJ5.
 
Unfortunately, this is power windows/locks, (they're getting weak on BOTH counts), but it is a 6spd manual (granny + 5) and a manual T-case with manual hubs... That was what sold me, that and it already had the flatbed I wanted, was a dually and had both receiver and GN hitches... The only ay the bed could be better was if it was a Cannonball or a Hydra brand bale bed as those can be handy for a lot of things beyond hauling bales (which I also do a decent bit of)... They're awesome with a chain on each arm, connected to each side of a large log tong... Or, for skidding smaller trees...
 

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