Oklahoma,AR,MO,KS,TX GTG (Next GTG 08/27/2016 ) Fort Scott, KS

[Hinerman]

Good morning fellow sawyers. 32° here this morning. Have a good day.

 

[diggers_dad]

Cool temps and Don Williams on the radio. A nice way to start a Friday.

 

[Mo. Jim]

Morning Gents, sunshine and heading for the low 50's. It rained most of the day yesterday, so it's going to be pretty muddy out. Have a good one, later Jim.

 

[pdqdl]

Anybody used a massdam pow r rope puller.It looks like something I could maybe use.

They are exceedingly good value. Great power, reliability, low expense. They are a bit slow, but well worth the nominal expense. I would rather have one of them than 20 of the nasty little hand winches with a steel cable. The chain hoists are vastly superior at lifting and holding a load from an overhead suspension point, but they are a PITA for working horizontally, particularly if you are moving something a long ways or further away than you can reach with a 20' chain.

Get a snatch block or two, then you can double/triple your power, or re-direct the pull around other obstructions. A couple of years ago, I needed to pull a big tree over into a direction where there was no anchor point. Snatch block, extra rope, and I just used two anchor points with the direction of fall held in the middle: exactly where I needed it.

Do that with a chain hoist!

 

[pdqdl]

I have heard the amsteel rope is stronger than same size cable. Much less weight. Will test the rope this weekend pulling logs. 3/8 rope rated for 17500 lbs.

The rope is excellent as a replacement for steel winch lines, but will perform poorly for you if you are dragging logs with a vehicle. It will not tolerate being tied; all connections must be splices. Furthermore, it has a low melting point and will quickly weld down to the attachment points if you are yanking stuff with a pickup. There is too much horsepower going through a tiny surface point in a short period of time. Winch it slowly: great rope, super light, spectacular strength, easy to splice, and pretty good resistance to friction.

I have a 150' section we use to rescue stuck vehicles. 3/8" rope, it looks like a ski-rope, yet we have pulled out our 18k chipper truck with it when it was loaded full and axled in mud.

 

[old cookie]

Thanks a lot pdq.What I want it for is pulling trees.Sounds like it would work good for this.

 

[workshop]

Here's an extended version of the KY3 news cast on charity cut 3

 

[lumberjackchef]

One of my Amish clients had a little accident with a tree.

Sent from my XT1031 using Tapatalk

 

[lumberjackchef]

And that was a ported big bore that was a running sucker! Its mine now though we did a little trading for an 044 power head.

Sent from my XT1031 using Tapatalk

 

[workshop]

Holy cow, it looks like he picked the tree up and beat that saw to pieces with it.

 

[lumberjackchef]

He said that his helper was using it and the big holllow tree did a reverse fall. Oops went the wrong way and landed right on the saw but luckily he was able to get himself out of the way!

Sent from my XT1031 using Tapatalk

 

[workshop]

I finally figured out how to get the bearings off the crank for the MS390. Got new bearings, seals and rings coming. Thanks for the crankshaft warjohn. I ruined the original trying to get those bearings off. This one will make a nice addition to the ones I use for firewood donations.

 

[workshop]

I finally figured out how to get the bearings off the crank for the MS390. Got new bearings, seals and rings coming. Thanks for the crankshaft warjohn. I ruined the original trying to get those bearings off. This one will make a nice addition to the ones I use for firewood donations.

 

[lumberjackchef]

How did you finally get them off?

Sent from my XT1031 using Tapatalk

 

[workshop]

Very carefully mounted the crank in a vice. Then used 2 flat blade wood chisels on each side of the bearing and wiggled the bearings right off. First bearing took less than a minute. Second one was more stubborn, took about 5 minutes.

 

[lumberjackchef]

Easiest way by far that I have found for the 1127 series saws.

Sent from my XT1031 using Tapatalk

 

[workshop]

Son of a gun, I've got a puller like that but i didn't think the jaws would fit correctly. Plus I went onto u-tube and saw a guy taking them off with nothing more than a screwdriver and a small amount of heat. So my brain was stuck on doing it that way. But I didn't use any heat, though. Now that I look at the old crank, I can see that a small puller would still fit on either side of the counter weights and get under the outer race. The problem I had with the old crank was the plastic cage had disintegrated and left the ball bearings to sling all over. Out of position. Then the outer race fell off. So I thought I've got nothing to lose now, any way I attack this and its no good. Tried splitting the race like I used to do axle bearings and nicked the crank. Thank goodness warjohn had a parts saw with a good crank in it. I might have been able to use the bearings that came on it but wanted to put new ones in, just to be sure. I went to my local Stihl dealer yesterday to price just the seals. $20 for EACH seal. I couldn't do that. Got new bearings, seals and rings online for less than $40. And the new bearings have metal cages instead of plastic. The OEM may be the proper way to go but my pocket book says otherwise. Besides, the saw was free.

 

[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

Son of a gun, I've got a puller like that but i didn't think the jaws would fit correctly. Plus I went onto u-tube and saw a guy taking them off with nothing more than a screwdriver and a small amount of heat. So my brain was stuck on doing it that way. But I didn't use any heat, though. Now that I look at the old crank, I can see that a small puller would still fit on either side of the counter weights and get under the outer race. The problem I had with the old crank was the plastic cage had disintegrated and left the ball bearings to sling all over. Out of position. Then the outer race fell off. So I thought I've got nothing to lose now, any way I attack this and its no good. Tried splitting the race like I used to do axle bearings and nicked the crank. Thank goodness warjohn had a parts saw with a good crank in it. I might have been able to use the bearings that came on it but wanted to put new ones in, just to be sure. I went to my local Stihl dealer yesterday to price just the seals. $20 for EACH seal. I couldn't do that. Got new bearings, seals and rings online for less than $40. And the new bearings have metal cages instead of plastic. The OEM may be the proper way to go but my pocket book says otherwise. Besides, the saw was free.

Stihls are pricey to work on .

 

[Mo. Jim]

Morning Kenneth and the rest of you Gents, looks like the 50's are gone for a while, spit a little snow earlier, but you had to look hard to see it. I make it 68 days to the Mo./Ia. GTG. Later Jim

 

[Homelite410]

Morning boyz. The hoskey boys and I got me a cord and a half of mulberry yesterday!! Good company, good saws, new wood truck sunny day, what's not to love!