Old iron..?

[deerehunter]

I purchased this 99 k3500 with airbagged suspension and a 2 year old flat bed for $1600 a few years back. Its a 350 vortec and pulls my gooseneck full of logs and a john deere 2320 loader tractor on the back just fine. It can be tough to find trucks of this vintage that aren't all rotted out but they can be found.

 

[4seasons]

I've sworn off diesel. My 12-valve Cummins were good to me...kind of. My 6.0 Ford I still curse at. An injection pump or injectors will put you north of $2k fast. A gas crate motor can be had for less.

My machine weights in right at 7k. I'd like to get a gooseneck flat to drag it around. 60 miles round trip either delivery of fetching wood is all I expect, few times a week.

Glad to see that you are not stuck on Ford. A 12 valve Cummins is hard to beat in a light truck. I also understand not wanting to deal with the high service cost of a diesel on a truck that you don't put a ton of miles on.
The next thing to consider is how much you are willing to spend, and how much you are willing to repair. I know you have a lot more of a rust issue in MN than we do in TN. If you are willing to buy a southern truck, you will find the drivetrain is shot before the frame rusts out. If you are willing to spin wrenches for a few weeks you might want to consider buying two trucks, one a rust bucket with a good engine and transmission and another with the body and frame you need. I speak from experience here when I say 1973-1980 Chevy/GMC are great for this type of project. Even the 1980-1987 models have most parts that can interchange. In 1988 they started changing things up a bit but my 1990 k2500 still uses the same 350/TH400 that was available since the 70's but with fuel injection.
If you are not willing to go back that old or use two trucks to build one my next suggestion is to buy something rust free but not running. Then take a trip to Pull-A-Part and get an engine or transmission to drop in. You still have to know what parts will interchange and be willing to do a little work but you can save thousands doing this.
Now if you don't have the time or knowledge and tools to take on one of the above projects you can still find a deal on a wrecked truck. Rock Auto and even Amazon have some good prices on body parts although you have to watch shipping cost. If you can find one with a rust free frame and a busted up bed that would be great because you could slap a flatbed on with little more than basic hand tools and a few buddies to help you lift it into place.

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[Sandhill Crane]

Past experience:
Jan. of '13 I bought a 5500 Top Kick built in 2000, with a 12' flatbed and 336,000 miles. Payed $4,700.
I had bought a 20 cord load of logs the year (before buying a truck which is used just for deliveries), and processed into firewood but slow, slow sales without a means of delivery.

My intension was a good used 2500 or 3500 pickup, but prices were stiff and 10k and under looked pretty well used up. I read everything I could on AS and other sites about using a pickup and dump trailer for firewood. But in the end this truck for much less than a trailer/pickup combo, won over.
In part, because I wanted to buy other processing equipment that would either increase production or reduce my time and effort.

Looking back. The truck has worked out pretty well but realistically, cost about 2k (averaged out) a year to keep on the road (plates, insurance, annual inspection, repairs).
In addition to the initial cost, there were costly repairs over the five years, and expensive annual license plates at $500. Insurance, for commercial a truck is not any more than a pickup with basic coverage. The truck itself however is not covered. DOT registration is free. I think I paid $500. for a DOT ticket/education a couple years back. Another several hundred for compliance, name on truck, triangles, fire extinguisher, horn repair, etc. Annual DOT inspection is a few hundred, plus any repairs needed. Biggest expense was a transmission, as it was jumping out of two gears under load.

An important note. I got a DOT ticket leaving the state, as I passed the last exit on the interstate. I bought a nursery trailer and thought I'd do a three hour drive one way and save $300. shipping. My truck is now registered as intra-state with DOT. Meaning I can only drive on Michigan roads. To get interstate registration I believe you need to be bonded, unless the vehicle is your personal vehicle, and no other vehicle is registered to you, and you are not using it commercially. There are exceptions, like pulling a personal rv trailer.
If you get more than a 3500 educate yourself first, because their education is expensive.
And do not ask at the license bureau... The officer that stopped me said they do not know what they are talking about, they just hand out plates.
The draw back of an old truck is just that, it's old, and any money I've put into it is gone. It is still an old truck worth very little, even with a new rebuilt $5,000. transmission/clutch job. The 3126 Cat is fun to drive however...and I've had 2 1/3 cords on without overloading. It is very easy to get in places a dump trailer isn't going. Backing or turning around has never been an issue. But note I've only used it one winter and got stuck often after unloading. Just carried a couple buckets of ashes, some old tire chains off my dads '56 Buick that I lay on the ground, and a snow scoop. Never had to pull it out.

 

[Circle B MN]

Past experience:
Jan. of '13 I bought a 5500 Top Kick built in 2000, with a 12' flatbed and 336,000 miles. Payed $4,700.
I had bought a 20 cord load of logs the year (before buying a truck which is used just for deliveries), and processed into firewood but slow, slow sales without a means of delivery.

My intension was a good used 2500 or 3500 pickup, but prices were stiff and 10k and under looked pretty well used up. I read everything I could on AS and other sites about using a pickup and dump trailer for firewood. But in the end this truck for much less than a trailer/pickup combo, won over.
In part, because I wanted to buy other processing equipment that would either increase production or reduce my time and effort.

Looking back. The truck has worked out pretty well but realistically, cost about 2k (averaged out) a year to keep on the road (plates, insurance, annual inspection, repairs).
In addition to the initial cost, there were costly repairs over the five years, and expensive annual license plates at $500. Insurance, for commercial a truck is not any more than a pickup with basic coverage. The truck itself however is not covered. DOT registration is free. I think I paid $500. for a DOT ticket/education a couple years back. Another several hundred for compliance, name on truck, triangles, fire extinguisher, horn repair, etc. Annual DOT inspection is a few hundred, plus any repairs needed. Biggest expense was a transmission, as it was jumping out of two gears under load.

An important note. I got a DOT ticket leaving the state, as I passed the last exit on the interstate. I bought a nursery trailer and thought I'd do a three hour drive one way and save $300. shipping. My truck is now registered as intra-state with DOT. Meaning I can only drive on Michigan roads. To get interstate registration I believe you need to be bonded, unless the vehicle is your personal vehicle, and no other vehicle is registered to you, and you are not using it commercially. There are exceptions, like pulling a personal rv trailer.
If you get more than a 3500 educate yourself first, because their education is expensive.
And do not ask at the license bureau... The officer that stopped me said they do not know what they are talking about, they just hand out plates.
The draw back of an old truck is just that, it's old, and any money I've put into it is gone. It is still an old truck worth very little, even with a new rebuilt $5,000. transmission/clutch job. The 3126 Cat is fun to drive however...and I've had 2 1/3 cords on without overloading. It is very easy to get in places a dump trailer isn't going. Backing or turning around has never been an issue. But note I've only used it one winter and got stuck often after unloading. Just carried a couple buckets of ashes, some old tire chains off my dads '56 Buick that I lay on the ground, and a snow scoop. Never had to pull it out.

Well written reply. Thanks.

I've been down the DOT road before myself. Made a coupe of trips actually with a donation to their cause each time

The 2500/3500 used market is real slim for sure, and with the abuse the trucks get around wood it's a shame to use new trucks.

The search continues....

 

[Circle B MN]

Found some middle aged iron and jumped on it. 2011 F350 6.2l 2WD

Was a state truck in its previous life. Got all the service records since new. Real clean, not a hint of rust which here is a big deal. Paid more for my used Case 1845C

 

[04titanse]

I had a 89 F350 DRW dump with the 460, 4x4 and 5 speed. Was a great truck had super low miles but I ended up selling it last year due to rust. Hard to find an old truck in MA that isn't a rust bucket. Picked up a 2010 F350 DRW w/ 8'x 9'-6" flatbed dump with v10 auto. Its been good to me so far, I was actually surprised how well the v10 does when towing over the rated capacity of the truck. 9-ton deck over trailer with a John deere 450E is a lot of weight for a 1 ton....really too much but it does the job if you use your head and take your time.

I figured I'd miss my only 6.6 duramax in the picture next to my username but honestly the v10 does just fine and for a much lower initial purchase price.

 

[4seasons]

Found some middle aged iron and jumped on it. 2011 F350 6.2l 2WD

Was a state truck in its previous life. Got all the service records since new. Real clean, not a hint of rust which here is a big deal. Paid more for my used Case 1845C
View attachment 666542

I thought you wanted old iron. That thing is brand new.

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[Circle B MN]

I had a 89 F350 DRW dump with the 460, 4x4 and 5 speed. Was a great truck had super low miles but I ended up selling it last year due to rust. Hard to find an old truck in MA that isn't a rust bucket. Picked up a 2010 F350 DRW w/ 8'x 9'-6" flatbed dump with v10 auto. Its been good to me so far, I was actually surprised how well the v10 does when towing over the rated capacity of the truck. 9-ton deck over trailer with a John deere 450E is a lot of weight for a 1 ton....really too much but it does the job if you use your head and take your time.

I figured I'd miss my only 6.6 duramax in the picture next to my username but honestly the v10 does just fine and for a much lower initial purchase price.

Rust is pretty rude to a truck. Makes it real hard to put a lot of money into something that is going to rot in the driveway.

 

[Circle B MN]

I thought you wanted old iron. That thing is brand new.

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The price was right. Slim pickings in the used truck market these days.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I purchased this 99 k3500 with airbagged suspension and a 2 year old flat bed for $1600 a few years back. Its a 350 vortec and pulls my gooseneck full of logs and a john deere 2320 loader tractor on the back just fine. It can be tough to find trucks of this vintage that aren't all rotted out but they can be found.View attachment 662590

My 2 "new" trucks are a 91 and 97, no rust on either.
The 91 is nearly showroom condition, frame is barely even dirty.

My Chev is an 83, cab corners and rockers starting to go.

Had a fender replaced on the 97 (was bent up from a previous owner). Body shop said they don't usually work on stuff "that old"... old?! It's my newest truck!

 

[Circle B MN]

My 2 "new" trucks are a 91 and 97, no rust on either.
The 91 is nearly showroom condition, frame is barely even dirty.

My Chev is an 83, cab corners and rockers starting to go.

Had a fender replaced on the 97 (was bent up from a previous owner). Body shop said they don't usually work on stuff "that old"... old?! It's my newest truck!

Not many 91's one the road around here still, and the 97's lose a little every bump in the road. Road salt at work....

 

[Mustang71]

My 06 is starting to rot away. You are lucky to find a clean 5 year old truck around here. If you find a clean 90s truck you will pay a lot for it.

It's not just the body's that rot away it's the mechanicals too. Salt sucks and they lay it on thick here.

 

[sundance]

Not many 91's one the road around here still, and the 97's lose a little every bump in the road. Road salt at work....

I know how that works! My 2000 Silverado is eaten up. Looses a little weight every time I drive it. I only use it locally for wood as it won't pass inspection due to frame rot. Body is in rough shape as well. Putting a new tailgate shell on it as the original died a couple weeks ago.

 

[Circle B MN]

I know how that works! My 2000 Silverado is eaten up. Looses a little weight every time I drive it. I only use it locally for wood as it won't pass inspection due to frame rot. Body is in rough shape as well. Putting a new tailgate shell on it as the original died a couple weeks ago.

State inspections here would take better than half the cars off the road..LOL

 

[Mustang71]

In NY they dont care about much except for the check engine light. Anything under 8600lbs will fail inspections if the check engine light is on. I have been getting mine by for 5 years with the light on with the help of a certain mechanic.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Thankfully they mainly use sand here.

 

[svk]

In NY they dont care about much except for the check engine light. Anything under 8600lbs will fail inspections if the check engine light is on. I have been getting mine by for 5 years with the light on with the help of a certain mechanic.

They have a pretty lengthy checklist but perhaps it’s not all enforced? When we lived out there our older vehicle started having issues so I parked it and trailered it back to MN rather than sink a ton of money into a decade old vehicle.

 

[Mustang71]

They have a pretty lengthy checklist but perhaps it’s not all enforced? When we lived out there our older vehicle started having issues so I parked it and trailered it back to MN rather than sink a ton of money into a decade old vehicle.

I check and replace any front end parts or brakes or stuff like that that would be unsafe the rest of the nonsense they could fail u for I dont bother with. Any decent mechanic wont check dumb stuff as long as the vehicle is safe. When I was 19 I worked at valvoline and they would fail you for bad whinshield wipers but wouldn't check ball joints. But they sold wipers so they made their money.

If I lose my inspection guy I'm going to have to spend a lot of money to fix my check engine light which in no way effects the way the truck runs it's just a pcm memory code error that's always there.

 

[brandonstc6]

I am looking at a similar situation with getting me a 1/2 ton truck to run around town in. I have a 1949 Ford F1. I’m fixing it up, so I may just use it for my occasional needs. I am in Mississippi and I have seen a lot of good looking 90s ford F250s and F350s around for pretty decent prices.


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[4seasons]

My newest vehicle is a 2006. My 3 trucks are 1985, 1990, and 2000. I also just sold a 1977 with the only rust on the exhaust. And yes we do get snow around here, but they rarely salt more than the interstate. We also don't have inspections either. Thus I never buy new vehicles, and most the time I buy old and cheap and make repairs to put it back on the road. I don't understand why so many people are afraid of driving 10 year old cars. I do understand the rust issue up north, but I don't understand why people won't take better care of such an expensive vehicle.