Old L65 question

[muddstopper]

I have a old l65 saw my FIL bought new back in the mid 1980's. saw was never used much and is only on its second chain since new. A few years ago, I gave it to my son just so he would have a saw when he needed one. Later, his house trailer burnt to the ground and the saw was forgotten about. 4 or 5 years ago, I was snooping around the house site and found the old saw up under the trailer, in a 5 gal bucket. The bucket was full of water and the saw was locked down and wouldnt turn over. I drained the water and took the saw home, thinking someday I would get around to messing with it. Today is that day. Pulled the top end and to my surprise, it was all oily with no rust inside. P/C looks almost new. I got the saw to turn over, but it seemed there is something under the flywheel binding up. I went to pull the flywheel and the fins just slid off, but the rest of the cover stayed in place. Now my question is, how do I get the flywheel off the crank. There is nothing to grab hold of and you cant get under it to pry. I am thinking my only option is to split the case and press the crank out, but am afraid that it might mess up the flywheel or what ever parts are under it doing it that way.

 

[rupedoggy]

Save yourself a lot of pain and put it back in the bucket!
If you are dead set on getting it off, remove all that starter stuff and find the threaded holes to attach a puller.

 

[grizz55chev]

Back the nut off a few turns so that it's still below the end of the crank and smack the crank with a brass hammer, you may try heating the crank first to loosen the rust. Used this method many times to pull flywheels.

 

[muddstopper]

Lot of pain is why it sat for as long as it has. old saw even running wont bring much, and probably worth more selling parts, and I dont need it. Thats not the point of fixing it if I can.

Anyways, I didnt know there where threaded holes under the starter paws. First 2 piece flywheel I have came across. I'll give it a look over after while and see what it takes to remove the starter parts.

 

[muddstopper]

Back the nut off a few turns so that it's still below the end of the crank and smack the crank with a brass hammer, you may try heating the crank first to loosen the rust. Used this method many times to pull flywheels.

I have removed lots of flywheels using your method. first flywheel I have seen where the fins would just slip off. The fins seem to have some sort of felt ring between the fins and the flywheel. first bump and the fin ring just popped off. No way to put any kind of pry bar between the actual flywheel and the case as the flywheel seems to be recessed in the case. I am going to look for the holes under the starter paws that rupedoggy mentioned. If the holes are there, then it should be easy to remove.

 

[rupedoggy]

 

[svk]

Subbed.

I know @brandonstc6 has 65 parts if you need some.

 

[grizz55chev]

I have removed lots of flywheels using your method. first flywheel I have seen where the fins would just slip off. The fins seem to have some sort of felt ring between the fins and the flywheel. first bump and the fin ring just popped off. No way to put any kind of pry bar between the actual flywheel and the case as the flywheel seems to be recessed in the case. I am going to look for the holes under the starter paws that rupedoggy mentioned. If the holes are there, then it should be easy to remove.

Make it cut wood again, it's a worthy project.

 

[muddstopper]

View attachment 564633

Yep, what I found, should have looked a little harder to start with. I have made a small puller out of flat bar and used some cover bolts to attach to the flywheel. It must be rusted to the crank as its wanting to be stubborn. I have the bolts tighten down and the saw setting on the wood stove. I'll check it in a few min and see if a little heat pops it loose.

 

[svk]

Yep, what I found, should have looked a little harder to start with. I have made a small puller out of flat bar and used some cover bolts to attach to the flywheel. It must be rusted to the crank as its wanting to be stubborn. I have the bolts tighten down and the saw setting on the wood stove. I'll check it in a few min and see if a little heat pops it loose.

Spray a little PB blaster around the crank too.

 

[muddstopper]

Got it apart. Looks like I am going to need a flywheel. The 4 metal strips that are glued to the magnets have all came loose. Points are stuck open. I think I saw someone selling a electronic module to replace the points, I'll have to research that a little. wondering if I can just epoxy the metal strips back in the flywheel. There is a good indention in the big magnet so I should be able to put them back where they came from

 

[muddstopper]

Since I am going to need a flywheel, I need to know if I can swap one of the newer l65 flywheels and convert over to the electronic ignition. I have found a newer flywheel, but need to find the modules to go with it. I dont want to waste money scrounging parts that wont fit or wont work with my old saw. The numbers on my saw are 110853, not sure if that makes it a 1981 model or a 1991, but it is Yugoslavia Tomos made. Does anybody know when Husky went from points to electronics

 

[rupedoggy]

Does anybody know when Husky went from points to electronics

About when Studebaker stopped making wagons. LOL Mike

 

[muddstopper]

Pretty sure they made the l65 into the 2000's, but even that is a long time ago now.

 

[rupedoggy]

Nikko can tell us. Saw Troll where are you?
However the L65 was the model with only two numbers. Then came the one series then two then three then four and five now so it is not new by any means. If I had to stake my fortune on a bet I would say the L65 was long gone by the turn of the century. Mike

 

[muddstopper]

Been doing a little digging. It seems the 77 production ended around 1984. I can only guess a similar fate for the l65. The later years did have electronic ignition, and where called SS77. I guess the SS stood for Solid State, but dont know for certain.
The 84 end date would seem to fit with my memory of when the saw was purchased, sometime in the 1980's. Assuming the serial number places the saw as a 1981 model, if I am reading it right, this means the saw is about 36 years old. Theres members here that aint that old.

 

[ray benson]

Barretts has some info on this page along with 7 ipls
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/husqvarna/65chainsaw.html

 

[president]

480 cd same saw with solid state sem ignition
same one on the 2100 series saws

 

[rupedoggy]

Theres members here that aint that old.

Yea and some of us almost twice that old!

 

[Ozhoo]

Yea and some of us almost twice that old!

Damn! And now you're on the internet. These times they are a changin'