Old vintage saws everywhere I looked
- Thread starter Gumneck
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I used my crappy sawed shaft harmonic balance puller for the flywheel but its too thick to do the clutch due to the longer shaft and the M5 bolts I bought to pull the flywheel(longest the hardware store had) but too short for this.
Time to wish I was a tool maker. Since I dont have a metal hole cutting device, I'll start with some plate and cut it into an 8 sides Octagonaltrapizoidian figure of sorts.
Time to wish I was a tool maker. Since I dont have a metal hole cutting device, I'll start with some plate and cut it into an 8 sides Octagonaltrapizoidian figure of sorts.
I read on another chainsaw site how this model saw clutch was bear to remove and I'm thinking this entire time I bet I break clutch, strip it, or demolish the shaft.....That bolt on the right is looking a little bendy, eh?
I was literally disappointed that once the puller bolt made contact with the nut on the shaft it only took about 1/2 turn and it was off.
I feel like I could have chomped down on that clutch with my teeth and took it off. I probaby spent 2 hours on that puller such as it is.
I was literally disappointed that once the puller bolt made contact with the nut on the shaft it only took about 1/2 turn and it was off.
I feel like I could have chomped down on that clutch with my teeth and took it off. I probaby spent 2 hours on that puller such as it is.
Well, clutch side seal was not leaking under pressure either. So button that side back up. Remove block off inner tubes and see if fire issue was fixed revealed it is not.
Aha moment...there's another 621 in shed that did have fire. I'll swap tops(coil is screwed into the top on these). This saw looks more used/older than the first one I'm working on.
Unfortunately the coils are different between the two and wired differently as well. Someone looks like they put a heat sink ? into the saw pictured here. Tried it anyway and no fire. So far I've been lucky with points based saws and only had to clean them to get them firing again. Based on the number of times I've had to replace the condensor on a Ford 8N, that's my go to here. Gonna look up some troubleshooting saw specific skills first.
This 2nd 621 saw pictured here that somebody else wrote #1 on does have fire and does have 180PSI compression at 8 pulls cold done twice. Jump up to 90+ on first pull.....that's healthy. I wish I started working on this one first.....CONFIDENCE builder right there.
Aha moment...there's another 621 in shed that did have fire. I'll swap tops(coil is screwed into the top on these). This saw looks more used/older than the first one I'm working on.
Unfortunately the coils are different between the two and wired differently as well. Someone looks like they put a heat sink ? into the saw pictured here. Tried it anyway and no fire. So far I've been lucky with points based saws and only had to clean them to get them firing again. Based on the number of times I've had to replace the condensor on a Ford 8N, that's my go to here. Gonna look up some troubleshooting saw specific skills first.
This 2nd 621 saw pictured here that somebody else wrote #1 on does have fire and does have 180PSI compression at 8 pulls cold done twice. Jump up to 90+ on first pull.....that's healthy. I wish I started working on this one first.....CONFIDENCE builder right there.
So the first 621 with no fire that I've mainly been working on has 190 compression on 8 pulls cold and 170 on 6 pulls. Now I have not been pulling on this saw at all to put any lubrication in the cylinder to help that number prior to the test today. In fact, it's been since I picked them up 2+ years ago that I pulled to test fire and prime. I can't think of a saw I've worked on that had that high a number. I know my tester is good as I've done other saws with much lower results.
Still no fire. May need to get a different ohms meter as mine doesn't have 20M setting in the ohms section for testing the condensor.
Also, not certain previous owners had timing set correctly or not. Gapped point to .404MM, they were set probably closer to .50 MM or better.
Also, not certain previous owners had timing set correctly or not. Gapped point to .404MM, they were set probably closer to .50 MM or better.
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Hard to trouble shoot long distance with electrical stuff but I'll give it a shot from what I can see in the pics.
First we need to go back to post # 158/160 pics. Your broken wire is not likely from fatigue. Know-nothings have been in this saw long before you. Notice the two dents in the point box cover.....this is from someone using to long bolts to pull the flywheel and bottoming them out on the cover. Then rotate the flywheel some to see what wrong and you have the broken wire. It is tight in there and the bolts don't have to protrude past the inside of the flywheel much to have this happen.
I also notice your generation coil shows damage as well......not sure that could be the problem or not but shouldn't be that way.
Your points "look" to be in good condition but appear black in the pic. If so this is oxidation of the contacts.....they need to be carefully filed to remove this.....they need to look shiney and bright. Go very slowly....the contact metal is quite thin, like 1/16" or less.....if you file through it the points are junk. When finished the contacts should be perfectly flat and fit together tight. Not hitting on one side or the other or rocking on a high spot. If they are flat but don't match you can carefully bend the movable set's arm to get them to match up properly. Points gap spec is 0.015"-0.017" I set them to 0.016".
You also need to make certain that the movable set of points or wiring is not grounded out somewhere like against the box or cover or condensor wiring bolt touching ground somewhere. Perhaps the aforementioned dents in the box cover might be grounding them out. Should be pounded out flat again anyway.
First we need to go back to post # 158/160 pics. Your broken wire is not likely from fatigue. Know-nothings have been in this saw long before you. Notice the two dents in the point box cover.....this is from someone using to long bolts to pull the flywheel and bottoming them out on the cover. Then rotate the flywheel some to see what wrong and you have the broken wire. It is tight in there and the bolts don't have to protrude past the inside of the flywheel much to have this happen.
I also notice your generation coil shows damage as well......not sure that could be the problem or not but shouldn't be that way.
Your points "look" to be in good condition but appear black in the pic. If so this is oxidation of the contacts.....they need to be carefully filed to remove this.....they need to look shiney and bright. Go very slowly....the contact metal is quite thin, like 1/16" or less.....if you file through it the points are junk. When finished the contacts should be perfectly flat and fit together tight. Not hitting on one side or the other or rocking on a high spot. If they are flat but don't match you can carefully bend the movable set's arm to get them to match up properly. Points gap spec is 0.015"-0.017" I set them to 0.016".
You also need to make certain that the movable set of points or wiring is not grounded out somewhere like against the box or cover or condensor wiring bolt touching ground somewhere. Perhaps the aforementioned dents in the box cover might be grounding them out. Should be pounded out flat again anyway.
Well, in trying to get through some more saws, I wanted to look at the blue Sears 3.7 that was in really good shape when I got a notification on ebay that a 3.7 listed for $30 with I think is the original roller nose bar. I clicked on it and it was located 15 miles from my house. I really just wanted the bar but didn't need anything else on the saw so I just casually offered $20 if they wanted to sell it for that I just pick it up. They took it so I picked it up yday. Looked well used and missing gas cap so I didn't think it would be much to it. But compression felt great and the tank had some fudge in the bottom in a few places but the fuel line and filter looked soft and fine. Cleaned out with some carb cleaner, soaked for 30 mins, mopped it out. Put some fuel in it and without touching the carb at all, 3 pulls and it popped. Another and it was running. Idle was a little high, 1/2 a twist and it was idling pretty good.
I kind of was disappointed that it wasn't just a parts saw for the bar. Shame on me, I know it sounds crazy.
I kind of was disappointed that it wasn't just a parts saw for the bar. Shame on me, I know it sounds crazy.
Yea the bar was definitely worth the price but it runs and even better now
I've been battling a sl9 and a sl10a trying to make one from two. Was going good finally till the coil 
out on me so now I have to swap coils. Lots of projects in the boxes including a mint super 990 that needs some work View attachment VID_20240128_115130382.mp4
out on me so now I have to swap coils. Lots of projects in the boxes including a mint super 990 that needs some work View attachment VID_20240128_115130382.mp4
Thanks man, yea it's grown some
I think I'm about done unless something rare pops up for a good price. With my new job I don't have as much time to stay on top of everything in the shop.
