terryknight
ArboristSite Operative
i run 2 stroke oil 1oz ish per gallon in my diesels
on road diesel
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Just to bump this necrothread into 2013 onroad diesel is $4.30/gallon. Up from $3.75 1 month ago.
saw dog
ArboristSite Operative
Yes off road fuel is low sulfur, the same sa on road fuel.
saw dog
ArboristSite Operative
Hi all
The diesel lab I use tells me to use an additive in any engine built before 2008 due to lube problems w/ low sulfur fuel. A lot of people are having pump failures due this problem. I buy Stanidine 55 gal. at a time and use 8 OZ. per 30 gal in all of my older engines and so far have not had a failure. This gets expensive but beats the alternative, if you loose a pump it is not just replacement cost of the pump but cleaning the intire fuel system of metal particles so you don,t loose the new pump due to metal contamination. VW tells you not to use additaves in thier TDI engines but at the same time they are having a lot of pump failures, but so far they are not addressing the problem but blaming it to missfueling with gasoline. The labs that I have talked to about this problem tell me that most of the VW pump failure is due to lack of lube in the fuel with a small percentage of failures due to miss fueling. The cost of pump replacement and cleaning the fuel system on the VWs can cost as much as 7K dollars I am told if VW does not stand behind the pump failure. This problem with low sulfur fuel is going to get very expensive no matter how you address it, buying addative or replaceing pumps and cleaning fuel systems, but with out additives the latter can and will reacure. Hope this helps, so far I have not lost a pump, knock on wood.
The diesel lab I use tells me to use an additive in any engine built before 2008 due to lube problems w/ low sulfur fuel. A lot of people are having pump failures due this problem. I buy Stanidine 55 gal. at a time and use 8 OZ. per 30 gal in all of my older engines and so far have not had a failure. This gets expensive but beats the alternative, if you loose a pump it is not just replacement cost of the pump but cleaning the intire fuel system of metal particles so you don,t loose the new pump due to metal contamination. VW tells you not to use additaves in thier TDI engines but at the same time they are having a lot of pump failures, but so far they are not addressing the problem but blaming it to missfueling with gasoline. The labs that I have talked to about this problem tell me that most of the VW pump failure is due to lack of lube in the fuel with a small percentage of failures due to miss fueling. The cost of pump replacement and cleaning the fuel system on the VWs can cost as much as 7K dollars I am told if VW does not stand behind the pump failure. This problem with low sulfur fuel is going to get very expensive no matter how you address it, buying addative or replaceing pumps and cleaning fuel systems, but with out additives the latter can and will reacure. Hope this helps, so far I have not lost a pump, knock on wood.
I always add Lucas or Deutz Diesel additive. It adds lubrication to the pump, seems to make the diesel less likely to take on water, and seems to make a big difference when you pull the head.
dannyknapp
ArboristSite Lurker
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The OP may have been referring to additives to prevent gelling in cold temps. While service stations will put in additives when temps drop, you can run into trouble if you buy fuel when it's warm and attempt to start a week or two later when it's colder. you can usually find Power Service winterizer/antigel or Howe's at truck stops, both work fine. Running a mix of #1 (kerosene) and #2 diesel also works if your station offers it.
Griff93
ArboristSite Operative
I do this as well on my older mechanical pump diesels. Not that I won't have an issue tomorrow but so far I've not had any of the pump problems that people have experienced from ULSD.
52farmer
ArboristSite Lurker
I have been on site when on and off road fuel was delivered,both came out of same tanker only difference was red dye tablets added to off road tank.No difference in fuel.
Off road tank? I just filled up a dumptruck and the fuel was red. I think off road is clear. And the new heavy machines call for ULSD in the engines. Just saw the sticker on a 2012 JD 544.
52farmer
ArboristSite Lurker
Well unless its different in MA than NY you put off-road in dump truck
greg storms
ArboristSite Operative
It'll take 4 or so tanks of clear diesel to eliminate the red dye that's used to distinguish off road in La. Don't get caught with red fuel in a highway use vehicle! Good Luck!
I am wrong. The road fuel from the gas station was clear.
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
Here on and off road diesel is the same exact fuel aside from the tax. I can run on road fuel and fill out paperwork to get the taxes back or I can buy the off road, either way works out the same... buying off road is less hassle though.
The on road has road tax and some sort of state/local fuel tax. The off road doesn't have the road tax. And Fuel oil is "good" diesel at 3000+ ppm sulfur and no tax at all.
We normally run either the fuel oil or off road diesel in all the stuff, whatever happens to be cheaper. For a while regular on road diesel on the pumps was cheaper. This winter it got down to $2.70 a gal while fuel oil was at $3.65.
I filled my tank a few days ago, it was $2.79 for fuel oil, while off road was 2.89 and on road was $3.15. In any case talk about a quick way to spend $1000!
For a while the diesel were were getting was almost green, like close to Mtn Dew color, not sure how come. I've never seen it red though.
The on road has road tax and some sort of state/local fuel tax. The off road doesn't have the road tax. And Fuel oil is "good" diesel at 3000+ ppm sulfur and no tax at all.
We normally run either the fuel oil or off road diesel in all the stuff, whatever happens to be cheaper. For a while regular on road diesel on the pumps was cheaper. This winter it got down to $2.70 a gal while fuel oil was at $3.65.
I filled my tank a few days ago, it was $2.79 for fuel oil, while off road was 2.89 and on road was $3.15. In any case talk about a quick way to spend $1000!
For a while the diesel were were getting was almost green, like close to Mtn Dew color, not sure how come. I've never seen it red though.
ApexTreeService
ArboristSite Operative
Bio diesel blend or 2 stroke oil (200:1) mixed with either FPPF or Opti Lube fuel additive is added to all my diesels with High Pressure Common Rail injection system (pre emmision years). All four were in the top performing slots of wear reduction in one popular study.
Jimma
ArboristSite Operative
can anyone explain this. I've got a 34 HP Diesel stump grinder. The oil cap was not secured properly and oil soaked the engine when I ran it for a while. I wiped away what I could and used a degreaser to wash away the rest. The next day I used it and it ran fine for an hour or so then began to smoke, (Black smoke). Today I figured some of the grease I dislodged may have clogged something up so I took a can of carburetor cleaner and spayed everything clean. When I started the engine later, holy smoke. Billows and billows of smoke. My first question is how did anything get into the engine to cause that smoke and the second question is, how do I stop it? It's slowed down a lot, but whenever there is a load on the engine, it starts to smoke more.
Woos31
Addicted to ArboristSite
My first thought would be to check the intake and see if it drew oil into the air filter and also your fuel filter may be in need of change as either one of those can cause power loss, and possibly black smoke if air filter isn't allowing max air flow that's needed for a clean burn of the fuel during the injection events.
I wouldn't think cleaning off the motor with degreaser would have caused the issues you mentioned without any other syptoms leading to this either. Meaning the gunk on outside of motor shouldn't be able to get in without you seeing major problems when it's running like hemorrhaging fuel or oil because that stuff couldn't/shouldn't be able get in motor otherwise, but stranger things can happen when Murphy decides to visit! (hopefully this is making sense cuz I'm as curious as ever of what could cause that scenario). Best of luck sir and let us know what ends up the culprit.
Jimma
ArboristSite Operative
It never crossed my mind, when it started smoking, that the degreaser was the cause. The air filter is no where near where the initial oil spill and the degreaser was used. The engine seems to run fine and there is no loss of power. I've used it for 6 hours of continuous running since it started. I did change the air filter and drained the fuel filter, but to no avail. The reason I connected the degreaser to the problem was that when I sprayed the carb cleaner on the engine where the oil residue was still visible from the degreaser, the smoke was unbelievable. It has since died down, but still continues. if it acts the same way it has for the past couple of days, when I put a load on the engine when I start cutting stumps, the whole neighborhood will go into a fog. The area hosts the turbocharger, but all the connections seem tight and I can't figure any area that would not be sealed off from outside air. Guess my next move will be to change the fuel filter. There may have been some debris in the fuel I got out of the filter when I bled the system the first time, unless the cup I was catching it in was dirty. Then on to the fuel injectors I guess. I just thought there might be something obvious that I was missing. I've been know to do some bone head stuff.
FChenard
ArboristSite Lurker
´
It Depends, Here in canada we have mazout #1 and mzout #2. Mazout #1 is basicaly diesel with red dye in it it can be used to run tractors on farms and heating if you have an outside tank. #2 is used when you have an inside tank and used in tractors or farm equipements in summe time. #1 I beleive is the equivalent of off road diesel in US witch contain an additive that prevent it from turning to slush in winter times. #2 doesn't contain that additive. if you operate in southern US where the weather stys mild, i wouldn'd be stressed about using #2 all year long but don't get caught with that product in your equipements. Everything that you can drive on the road has to be fueled with taxed fuels including tool vehicules (chipper).
It Depends, Here in canada we have mazout #1 and mzout #2. Mazout #1 is basicaly diesel with red dye in it it can be used to run tractors on farms and heating if you have an outside tank. #2 is used when you have an inside tank and used in tractors or farm equipements in summe time. #1 I beleive is the equivalent of off road diesel in US witch contain an additive that prevent it from turning to slush in winter times. #2 doesn't contain that additive. if you operate in southern US where the weather stys mild, i wouldn'd be stressed about using #2 all year long but don't get caught with that product in your equipements. Everything that you can drive on the road has to be fueled with taxed fuels including tool vehicules (chipper).
texican65
ArboristSite Operative
Yep...it's all ULSD now, no diff. I checked with the owner at a local station that sells both on/off road...comes from the same truck, same grade. I used to run the HIGH SULFUR in my 92 Cummins, then LOW SULFUR which was 500 ppm, and now all we got is ULTRA LOW, 15 ppm. Not enough lubricating properties for older mechanic pumps and fuel systems. I ve run STANADYNE in my tank for 10 years and never had a fuel issue.
Dow
Dow
