On the bench, craftsman 55cc "incredi-pull"

[Efisher26]

It's too bad, it seems to have good throttle response. My brother said it always leaked oil in the carry case, I just wonder how hard it will be to get to the oil tank, If I clean everything and it still doesn't pump....


-•------------------------------------------------------------


Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl

 

[Chris-PA]

I believe they really were McCulloch designs from right before the end - they share some styling cues with the MAC3200 saws, but no design details. They've been around for a while, and there was a time when I wanted one - it's a 3-piece clamshell and no doubt could be made to run well but there are other saws I'd rather play with.

 

[Efisher26]

seems to be same basic design


-•------------------------------------------------------------


Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I called 2 or 3 companies trying to find an oil pump for mine and McCulloch was one of them. I tried Sears parts direct and MTD also, they all gave me the same answer...Good Luck!

 

[Efisher26]

I'll just have to clean it and hope i get it to work. Anyone take apart the case to get to oil tank on this? All I see is a hose sticking through the case where it connects to the pump assembly


-•------------------------------------------------------------


Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl

 

[TBS]

Still available for the remington 5520.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/753-06387/0071/247.html

 

[Efisher26]

Update: the oil hose had a thousand cracks, pain in nuts to change it but it works now


-•------------------------------------------------------------


Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl

 

[Amp4027]

Well well.... you are in luck.

I just rebuilt mine. On the Sears IPL, the washer thingy that is not labeled with a # is actually a 1/8" (or 1/16", can't remember) thick felt washer. This saw will always leak oil, no matter what you do - due to it being made of black plastic and where the air-valve for the tank is located. It can also spit gas up where the carb box/air filter is. If you use a el-cheapo primer bulb, make sure the long straw goes to the tank, or you will simply flood the engine. If there is gas in the primer bulb, I usually only push it twice. The engine will not run in full-choke position (read the manual)
Protip: Do NOT disassemble the 'incredi-pull' recoil starter. (and if you can do me a huge favor, just show me the rope-side of it, I can't find a pic of it anywhere online). And don't jerk it like you would a normal recoil starter, just use mild force and draw the string out its full length. Yes, that is how it is, no noticeable resistance until the last 1/5th of the pull length, then it turns itself over 3x.

Saw is a BEAST with oregon's narrow-kerf chain. Keep in mind there was a recall on these saws for the front handle breaking due to manuf defect (plastic wasn't mixed right), wrapping a steel wirecable from antivibe screw to antivibe screw is a good safeguard.

I have a few manuals and IPL's I found, if you need them. Apparently McCulloch made a 'brother' saw to it, as seen a few posts above.

 

[Efisher26]

The thick secondary spring already broke in the recoil, I modified it so works on the main thin spring. I don't know what felt washer u are talking about, my oil Line has a metal filter on the tank end, and it goes through the plastic wall of tank "self sealing" in wall by compression, and ends at the barb on the pump. Breather I think is in the cap... any of that match up with yours? Also... my dad bought this for my brother awhile ago when I assume it was already remanufactured so who knows what's left oem.


-•------------------------------------------------------------


Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl

 

[Amp4027]

The thick secondary spring already broke in the recoil, I modified it so works on the main thin spring. I don't know what felt washer u are talking about, my oil Line has a metal filter on the tank end, and it goes through the plastic wall of tank "self sealing" in wall by compression, and ends at the barb on the pump. Breather I think is in the cap... any of that match up with yours? Also... my dad bought this for my brother awhile ago when I assume it was already remanufactured so who knows what's left oem.

Underneath #14 bolt on the microfiche, there is a part that is unlabeled - that is the felt washer which is supposed to absorb some oil if it pushes past the pumper. When the saw heats up from the black plastic and sunlight, oil will either push past the compression fitted hose at the tank, push out the elbow connection on the pump, push itself out the air valve (#71 & #74) for the oil tank, the o-ring in the oil pump mechanism has worn from so many repetitions and pushes out and past the wormgear, or gasket (#11) has melted from the saws heat (and sears using a simple low-temp rubber o-ring).

When the saw cools, it has no problem sucking in air, but soons it heats up from sunlight, there is no positive pressure valve for the oil tank and it pushes itself out at the weakest seal - most places recommend unscrewing&rescrewing the oil cap after you are done for the day to keep as much oil from leaking out, and putting a towel inside the case.

If you can find a replacement drive sprocket or know a compatible part, or can take a pic of the recoil starter, please let me know.

 

[Efisher26]

I'll have to test, I don't remember that ring behind the pump assembly, but like I said I think it was bought refurbished so who knows what has been done to it already. Btw, do you know the chain specs? .325 .050?


-•------------------------------------------------------------


Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl

 

[Amp4027]

The felt sits inside the bowl of #115, usually binds up and melts the plastic on the oil pump, as you can see on yours. I'm probably gonna remove it again just because its pretty much doomed to leak oil regardless, and it seems parts are very limited.

Not exactly sure what it is, but the chain I got on it right now is an Oregon.
Marked '25' and 'SK' on the rakers, and '95' and '-' on the underteeth.

Owners manual says '18" 72 drivelinks' for the bar. Oregon's official site says it is .325pitch .050gauge so I'd probably go with that.

Yea, if that #11 o-ring isn't behind the oil pump, pretty much all the oil will leak out overnight. You can make your own - it takes a double stack of standard rubberized gasket paper for it to even touch before bottoming out the 3 screws.