Ongoing MS 200T Carburetor Issue

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New Carb Linkage

No, Waylan, the linkage in our saw didn't require any modifications to accommodate the new Zama C1Q-S16A.
 
Backing Plate and Grommet

So here's how I handled the compensator air box backing plate issue ... As you can see, Permatex RTV can be a wonderful thing.

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And here's the C1Q-S61D's adjustment grommet. With the new Zama C1Q-S16A in place, the old grommet will allow for idle speed and (H) adjustments -- but not (L).

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Has anyone reading this ever found a grommet for the Zama C1Q-S16A?
 
Great news Handlogger. Keep us informed and glad to hear it all went together fine. That Permatex is useful stuff :cheers:

9 just did not change the number yet!

Thats just plain greedy. No wonder nobody can find any 200T's for sale anymore :D
Speaking of which a local almond orchard has about a dozen burnt up 200T's in their shed. I may have to suck up to the manager...
 
Back again Bill with more photos and part numbers.
I'd never taken much notice of my new 200T and hadn't realised it had a different H/L grommet.
Anyway as with basically every Stihl part it has a part number stamped on the back of the grommet :)

New 200T at the front and older one at the back...

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Older grommet...

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The part number is 1129 123 750 2 which is actually listed as being off of a 020/020T according to Stihl's Mediacat.
Hope that helps mate :cheers:
 
Permatex RTV

HL get a new plate I dont think the silicone is good there at all.You spent good money to fix it finish it right!:msp_biggrin::msp_biggrin::msp_biggrin:

Using the RTV to "plug" the hole in the compensator style air box backing plate was suggested earlier in this thread. At this point, I'm pretty much sold on the non-accelerator pump carburetor -- the Zama C1Q-S16A -- so I don't think we'll be going back ... and, if we do, it will only be to get us by while we locate another -S16A.

By the way, if you watch MCW's 200T vs 201T comparison video (Post 16), you'll see that his older -S16A equipped MS 200T kicks the dog doo out of Stihl's "new and improved" top-handle professional saw. It's still early days for us, but, so far, the -S16A looks like a better carburetor option for the MS 200T.

Thanks for your posts,
HandLogger
 
Using the RTV to "plug" the hole in the compensator style air box backing plate was suggested earlier in this thread. At this point, I'm pretty much sold on the non-accelerator pump carburetor -- the Zama C1Q-S16A -- so I don't think we'll be going back ... and, if we do, it will only be to get us by while we locate another -S16A.

By the way, if you watch MCW's 200T vs 201T comparison video (Post 16), you'll see that his older -S16A equipped MS 200T kicks the dog doo out of Stihl's "new and improved" top-handle professional saw. It's still early days for us, but, so far, the -S16A looks like a better carburetor option for the MS 200T.

Thanks for your posts,
HandLogger

Well do not use it it could come loose and get sucked into the carb or just leave a entry for dirt to get in and wear your engine out.Dont use sealer on fuel lines or air boots etc!The only place you want to use sealer and the correct one would be on the Cyl base when you remove the gasket.But then again what do I know!Ask any Saw mechanic here!Really just looking out for you bud.
 
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Thanks for watching out for us

No worries, Lone Wolf. If I wanted to ask a Stihl tech, I would've loaded up the saw long ago and made the long haul to our nearest certified Stihl repair center. For us, having a resource like the AS.com forum is very useful. I spend the majority of my time out in the boonies, but, luckily, we've got a very good "souped up" laptop that can pick up a signal from a long way out. In fact, we can usually get on the internet when our phone service isn't working. The point is that we use the internet for research and don't often have the time for long road trips to the city.

Once again, thanks very much for all of your posts. :cheers:
HandLogger
 
araldite is good gasproof sets rockhard the 24hour stuff not the 5-minute stuff, slipped in a thin plastic cover and sealed with araldite on this one

yop1.jpg


yop.jpg
 
Nice Job

That looks really familiar, pgg. :D

Don't tell me ... you've switched to the old non-compensator, non-acclerator pump type Zamas before. ;)

Looks really good :cheers:
 
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I screwed with my 200T carb for hours/days/weeks on end and finally had to throw in the towel and just buy a new one. Runs great now.
That's the first time that a carb has ever beat me into submission. I'm sorry I let you all down. I had to tap out like a little girl.



all not beer and skittles because even the non-accel carbs go haywire on 200T's, have stripped them, the welch plugs too, and all circuits are clean as a whistle, knocked the nozzle out and replaced with known good one, tried a million combinations, all lever/float/spring/jets/settings etc.. all kosher, shafts seemingly firm and airtight, carb pressured under-water and no bubbles, engine sealed tighter than Obamas purse-strings, saw with new seals and bearings all-round with brand new rings to boot, all hoses and connections 100% yet still the little b!tch won't run properly, slam in a known good carb and she runs like a world-beater, so don't ask me either LOL
 
all not beer and skittles because even the non-accel carbs go haywire on 200T's, have stripped them, the welch plugs too, and all circuits are clean as a whistle, knocked the nozzle out and replaced with known good one, tried a million combinations, all lever/float/spring/jets/settings etc.. all kosher, shafts seemingly firm and airtight, carb pressured under-water and no bubbles, engine sealed tighter than Obamas purse-strings, saw with new seals and bearings all-round with brand new rings to boot, all hoses and connections 100% yet still the little b!tch won't run properly, slam in a known good carb and she runs like a world-beater, so don't ask me either LOL

Hey how many 200T's have you run mate? From memory you've given the 200T's a good run plus the 335/338XPT's, and the Echos. If I remember correctly you prefer the modded Echos?
For some reason I thought you'd given up on the 200T's yet you still seem to be pulling out photos (like the backing plate above) so I assume you still have some :D
 
still rely heavily on the 200T's as no-nonsense work saws, the 020Ts and 200Ts are the best all-rounders, but as commercial pruning saws 335s ported and modded are my favorite for balance comfort and power to weight, the Echo tophandle saws are gutless junk saws, the "best" TH Echo is the 350/360T but compared to the husky or stihl they're just peaky screeching flexy cheapo rubbish and with a cheap horrible plasticy feel. Wouldn't be seen dead wielding an Echo mate, LOL
 
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still rely heavily on the 200T's as no-nonsense work saws, the 020Ts and 200Ts are the best all-rounders, but as commercial pruning saws 335s ported and modded are my favorite for balance comfort and power to weight, the Echo tophandle saws are gutless junk saws, the "best" TH Echo is the 350/360T but compared to the husky or stihl they're just peaky screeching flexy cheapo rubbish and with a cheap horrible plasticy feel. Wouldn't be seen dead wielding an Echo mate, LOL

Whoops. I thought you ran a few modded Echos! My bad :)
 
Great news Handlogger. Keep us informed and glad to hear it all went together fine. That Permatex is useful stuff :cheers:



Thats just plain greedy. No wonder nobody can find any 200T's for sale anymore :D
Speaking of which a local almond orchard has about a dozen burnt up 200T's in their shed. I may have to suck up to the manager...

How do you burn one up let alone a dozen? Is the sawdust getting in? what is going on? I have never burned one up and been using them since the original 020 T came out.
 
Page 9, Post 124

Back again Bill with more photos and part numbers.
I'd never taken much notice of my new 200T and hadn't realised it had a different H/L grommet.
Anyway as with basically every Stihl part it has a part number stamped on the back of the grommet

MCW: In order to save on some forum bandwidth, I'm simply going to refer to the great photos you posted on Page 9, Post 124 earlier in this thread.

In order to facilitate proper adjustment of the new Zama C1Q-S16A, I just ordered the grommet shown in photos 2 and 3 -- Stihl Part # 1129 123 7502. In order to avoid any possible problems in the future, I also ordered the backing plate [aka, air filter base] for the non-compensating carburetor (-S16A) -- Stihl Part # 1129 120 3400.

As I was looking over photo 1 again, MCW, I noticed that the little metal summer/winter "slide" tab that goes into the handle housing -- after the grommet is in place -- is there on your new MS 200T (saw in foreground). Your older 200T, on the other hand, is shown in photo 1 (saw in background) with the -S16A grommet in place, but with no slide tab over it. I'm not exactly sure what the slide is used for, but I was wondering if you, or your dealer perhaps, eliminated it for some reason?
 
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How do you burn one up let alone a dozen? Is the sawdust getting in? what is going on? I have never burned one up and been using them since the original 020 T came out.

Most would have been straight gassed by idiot casual operators. Most of the guys running these things in conrcat pruning organisations and those casual guys who are employed to prune have no right touching a saw. The guys that run these places wouldn't even know what a 200T is - to them it's just a chainsaw. It brings a tear to my eye...

As I was looking over photo 1 again, MCW, I noticed that the little metal summer/winter "slide" tab that goes into the handle housing -- after the grommet is in place -- is there on your new MS 200T (saw in foreground). Your older 200T, on the other hand, is shown in photo 1 (saw in background) with the -S16A grommet in place, but with no slide tab over it. I'm not exactly sure what the slide is used for, but I was wondering if you, or your dealer perhaps, eliminated it for some reason?

I have no idea what that tab is for Bill but it may have something to do aligning the tabs on the dealer's Stihl tuning screwdriver. Not really sure. I have never seen that tab on the older 200T's and I've seen and worked on a fair few bog stock ones over the years. That may be due to the fact that all the ones I've worked on are Australian delivered versions?
 
Slide Tab

I have no idea what that tab is for Bill but it may have something to do aligning the tabs on the dealer's Stihl tuning screwdriver. Not really sure. I have never seen that tab on the older 200T's and I've seen and worked on a fair few bog stock ones over the years. That may be due to the fact that all the ones I've worked on are Australian delivered versions?

The fact that the slide tab has a sun symbol on one end and a snow flake symbol on the other leads me to believe that it's an air restricter of some sort, MCW.

Perhaps one of our learned MS 200T experts can enlighten us on this?
 
The fact that the slide tab has a sun symbol on one end and a snow flake symbol on the other leads me to believe that it's an air restricter of some sort, MCW.

Perhaps one of our learned MS 200T experts can enlighten us on this?

Or alternatively it's not a secret and you can just look it up in the user manual. It just lets air flow over the carb area or not. When the snowflake shows you are directing air over the carb, when the sun shows you're not.
 
Test Run

I let the Permatex RTV in the air box backing plate cure overnight. Earlier today, I took the MS 200T back to the woodlot and gave it a test run. In short, the saw ran about as strong as I ever recall. :)

We still need to get our hands on a tachometer -- in order to tune the replacement carburetor accurately -- but it's still good knowing, by all indications, that the factory carb was the cause of our problems.

I'll get back to the AS.com forum after we get the new carb tuned properly. :cheers:
 
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