opinions on notching trees

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farmermike

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What is the best way to notch a tree? I cut the notch and then cut slightly above the notch. My neighbor cuts about level with the lower cut. I mostly cut up deadfalls and really don't like dropping trees. Seems they alway get hung up. Gotta drop a bunch of dead red elms and thought I'd ask the experts and get some different opinions. Love this site. Already looking forward to modding my 346xp and maybe in a year or two a 372xp. Been cutting wood for over 20 years and never realized what I was missing. When i first bought my farm I heated my house and hog barn with wood. I'm sure well over 30 cord and didn't think much of it. Cut alot of wood with an old 610 mccullac(sp)!!!!!. Now it's just the house. Usually use about 10 cord. No hogs anymore but a job in town so time is scarce. Thanks for the help.
 
backcut above the notch is the way I was told. Had a 10" green white oak do wierd stuff once, learned I needed to make the notch wider "taller" then with dead stuff.
 
Not so much re. the notch, but my new mantra is "Maintain the Integrity of the Holding Wood", and the falls are going according to plan.
 
notch technique

The MEMIC literature cited above by RaisedbyWolves states:
"The back cut should be level with the notch if the open face notch is used."

This is considered a safety violation by many others. Particularly those that deal with bigger trees on steeper hillsides.

Cutting level is a more efficient relationship between the back-cut and the face. Just be aware that on occasion 'stump shot', (especially when utilizing a humboldt face), can stop a butt from coming back over the stump.
 
Marco said:
backcut above the notch is the way I was told. Had a 10" green white oak do wierd stuff once, learned I needed to make the notch wider "taller" then with dead stuff.

Thats how i've been cutting too...
 
smokechase II said:
The MEMIC literature cited above by RaisedbyWolves states:
"The back cut should be level with the notch if the open face notch is used."

This is considered a safety violation by many others. Particularly those that deal with bigger trees on steeper hillsides.

Cutting level is a more efficient relationship between the back-cut and the face. Just be aware that on occasion 'stump shot', (especially when utilizing a humboldt face), can stop a butt from coming back over the stump.
It seems the older standards wanted the back cut higher the notch, while newer versions want it level.
The little step left by cutting higher does little to stop stump shot. If anything it might cause pressure to build and then "shoot" back. A level back cut would allow the trunk to slowly slide back.
A distinct advantage of a level back cut height, is it allows you to clearly see if you're cutting through the hinge.
 
RaisedByWolves said:
Bout time to post this again.....




View attachment 41335



Lots of good info, I read it about once a year for a refresher.

Timing is good. I'm supposed to take down a cherry in a back yard today. It just struck me that I haven't tipped a tree I couldn't push over and drag away whole in over a year, that a refresher would be a good thing. The clincher was LostintheWoods leaner over the dump bin in the Milling forum. It took me too long to come up with a solution, and it wasn't as natural as it should have been.

Thanks for the info.

Mark
 
smokechase II said:
The MEMIC literature cited above by RaisedbyWolves states:
"The back cut should be level with the notch if the open face notch is used."

This is considered a safety violation by many others. Particularly those that deal with bigger trees on steeper hillsides.

Cutting level is a more efficient relationship between the back-cut and the face. Just be aware that on occasion 'stump shot', (especially when utilizing a humboldt face), can stop a butt from coming back over the stump.

Although I've cut a bit of wood, I've not felled as much as many and am not holding myself up to be an expert. But my opinion is in part the reason why traditionaly folks have been told to use the backcut slightly higher than the front cut is the margin of error. If you aim for level and go low bad things can sometimes happen. A bit high and you can get away with it missing a little.
 
low not good

If you do go low with the back cut it can become the face.

Mostly the point of my two posts above was the difference East Coast vs. West Coast on stump shot.


Newer standards on the West Coast still want stump shot for the chance that it will prevent a tree from shooting back over the stump.
Granted:
1) On many trees this is not a concern, no obstacle/hillside to hit or limb configuration that would cause a butt to come back,
2) The physics are just so powerful or ground obstacles so large that even a high stump shot would do nothing to stop the butt from coming back.

{Another option exists here; high stump - steep faced Humboldt, get the tree to drop and utilize the full stump as a superior barrier. No need for Tek9Tim to nail me on this one again!}

The physics are the same just that they are magnified in bigger timber. So there is going to be a tendency to go with a particular safety option where there has been a problem in the past. Both East and West cutters have short cuts that compromise safety for production. Be ready to discard either set of bad habits on at least a tree by tree basis.

"A level back cut would allow the trunk to slowly slide back." Actually, it is what can allow the tree to come back period.
The theory, as I understand it with open face, is for the hinge to hold the tree in place. Not just from the standpoint of more control but also to prevent the butt from kicking back.
Look at where open face came from; Scandinavia. Smaller live trees in intensively managed forests are most of their cutting. If you step outside that world, Faller beware.

Did anyone notice the up to 50% in notches allowed on short stubby's on the BC form?
 
smokechase II said:
{Another option exists here; high stump - steep faced Humboldt, get the tree to drop and utilize the full stump as a superior barrier. No need for Tek9Tim to nail me on this one again!}


Nail you? I didn't mean for it to come across like that last time, you had a post with a lot of good points, and that one just slipped through the cracks, so I picked it up.

East coasters are going to do what they do, and west coasters are going to do what we do. I think it is good to know how to use an open face, or other tools like that, even though I hardly, if ever use them, that way when I do encounter a situation that it could work well for, I can use it. Always keep an open mind.
 
Mike Maas said:
A distinct advantage of a level back cut height, is it allows you to clearly see if you're cutting through the hinge.



This is why I think this to be a good way to cut.



If your back cut is higher it may lead you to over cut the holding wood while still having 1" or more of what would appear to be holding wood.




Now I got to go find out what "Stump Shot" means.
 
stump shot is the differential in height between the bottom of the notch and the back cut. A good thing to have if you are forced to fell a tree uphill where the butt may want to come back at you or where the top could be hung up in another tree and push the butt back at you.
 
notching

Husky137 said:
stump shot is the differential in height between the bottom of the notch and the back cut. A good thing to have if you are forced to fell a tree uphill where the butt may want to come back at you or where the top could be hung up in another tree and push the butt back at you.

ok if you have to fell a tree that will probably hang, the first thing i look for
is easy release of the saw and run away!! seriously very dangerous..
even if you under notch there is no sure way to do it..:D
 
cutting holding wood

"A distinct advantage of a level back cut height, is it allows you to clearly see if you're cutting through the hinge."

"This is why I think this to be a good way to cut.
If your back cut is higher it may lead you to over cut the holding wood while still having 1" or more of what would appear to be holding wood."

This isn't something that is difficult to do. Simply don't cut above any part of whatever dimension that you determine your holding wood to be. I see this as a discipline issue.

What does require some skill is cutting level. Not a lot but some.
Plunge cutting requires more skill, I would suggest. That doesn't mean it should be discarded.

On the scale of 1 (starting your saw) to 10 (plunge cutting level and matching cuts on a tree twice as big as your bar to set up a back release).
I would rate not cutting holding wood on a 2" stump shot 1.25 to 1.5

All you have to do is look at the off side and just stop.

Tek9Tim:
No disrespect, but you did nail me as I did forget to mention a great point.

Tim:
What concerns me is that folks from one area think they can go elsewhere and teach the locals how to cut. Soren Erikkson came out West almost two decades ago with this objective. He didn't go to Washington and work as a faller for five years and put together a program on some skills and techniques that he thought would be helpful. Just the arrogance of a napoleon complex combined with the inability to learn in later years and they roundly ignored him. Gave him quotes like if I cut like that I'd get myself killed.

This push the Scandinavian small tree production technique still has a pretty good following and the ego thing is part of it. Unfortunately that works both ways. We out west need to drop the big tree macho and study these methods.

Check this out and go to page 5.
http://www.forestapps.com/news/june02.pdf

Some of the verbiage there is: "They can all safely say the open face notch
and the training techniques promoted by Husqvarna will work very well in the East and in the Western woods."
This with about a dozen people cutting down ONE tree each as their method of achieving a final and complete answer to this pressing question.
Now look at the stump on the left side of page 5. Cuts are level, nice. Would you post that picture, holding wood problems despite the open face/back cut being level? Wouldn't you want to show a stump where you didn't screw up the holding wood that badly? Especially on a newsletter page?

Not to discard Tim Ard's work. I bought Tim Ard's eBook; "The complete Guide ..."
Worth your time. Particularly the stuff relating to cleverly using bore cuts on small diameter timber. I could snail mail it to you to look over.

But it is by no means a complete guide. It is at least a fairly complete guide on open face technique and you can print a few pages from it to help your buddies.

So I would suggest two thoughts:
1) Aggressively take in knowledge and learn from others. Just because we're on the West Coast doesn't mean we shouldn't consider appropriate technique on a tree by tree basis.
2) To some degree, ignore those others that are locked in. If someone is my way or the highway, let them take the hike.

From your posts, I'm pretty sure you're there. I just snuck this last part in directed at you, hoping for others to consider.
 
Last edited:
RaisedByWolves said:
Bout time to post this again.....

Thanks for that. I had a back leaning tree go exactly 180* from where I wanted it today. No harm done.. I wish I had a wedge with me but no, where my one wedge is located is a mystery. I finished the back cut, took the saw out, looked up the tree and back it went. Was almost a pinched bar at minimum.

Ian
 

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