Opinions on rope for flipline / lanyard

[Tom Dunlap]

Well boys, I DO climb on static line so I have plenty to use. A while ago I used the Tibloc for a couple of days and it picked the KMIII I was using in too many places. That leaves me with lots of short pieces of good rope between the nibbles.

Since static line is a bit stiffer than arbo rope it flips up limbs better [in my experience]. Since it's a different color it makes it VERY easy to ID. What's the criticism of using lighter weight gear?

Looking good is important though But it isn't a priority at the top of the list.

I use a Distel for the adjuster. Slip the lanyard rope through the d-ring and then tie your friction-hitch-of-choice onto the rope. Secure the FHOC to the d-ring using a sliding double-fisherman's hitch/knot [or whatever name you choose to use for this termination] If you have large dees on your saddle you will find that if you pull straight back the FH will invert. You have to pull out, away to the side or bend the lanyard rope and pull it away from you. This setup is much safer [in my opinion] because it only requires one piece of gear.

Steve,

The Fly is not really a kernmantle rope in the sense of static or mountaineering rope. The construction is actually between a double-braid and kernmantle. It would lean a bit closer to a kernmantle.

One way to tidy up your lanyard is to attach a small cord to the end of the lanyard and then tie it off to the belt slot on your d-ring. That keeps the tail from dragging around. Some climbers that use a long lanyard will daisy-chain the extra length.

Having a functional lanyard will generally speed up climbing. Too often the main tie in point doesn't support the climber in the best position. Using a lanyardwill support the climber better.

Is still am amazed at how much slamming goes on when someone uses a technique that is only different. Promoting a technique that is unsafe might warrant some civil discussion.

Tom

 

[NickfromWI]

Dada, I will be repeating some of what's been said already. I agree with Rocky that climbing line makes a great flipline, and I agree with John that you should use something that is different color from your climbing line.

Call up sherrill and order some of Yale's Fire line. They might give you 15 feet of it. It is just a 16 strand, but in super bright colors! Makes a good flipline, very easy to see.

love
nick

 

[MasterBlaster]

I prefer to use what I use for my lighter rigging bullrope as a lanyard.

Nick, I assume you can splice Stable Braid?

 

[NickfromWI]

Stable braid is just a standard double braid splice...easy and fun! Don't try to get me to splice it if it's used, though! Can be done, but not worth the time

love
nick

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I too am a fan of using good sections of retired climbing line for a lanyard.

Brian, are those nicks from moving the chainsaw around an a spar? That's how I usually do it thees days, get a tooth caught on a yarn and don't know it till too late.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Originally posted by NickfromWI
Stable braid is just a standard double braid splice...easy and fun! Don't try to get me to splice it if it's used, though! Can be done, but not worth the time

love
nick

Nah, I'll send ya new.

Where's mah splittails???

 

[rahtreelimbs]

For me I use whatever I have on hand that is good ( except 3 strand ). Currently I have been using Safety Blue Hi-Vee. I use a 15 ft. lanyard with a VT made from inexpensive Sta-Set. As for the excess I take a bite of the excess and do a sort of bouble daisy chain. I did have a DEDA setup that I was using but never found a use for it, the standard lanyard was good enough.


Maybe some day I will be good enough not to need a lanyard while pruning! It does have its place though when needed!

 

[Nathan Wreyford]

Originally posted by Tom Dunlap
Half inch or 7/16" static line is great. Super strong and light weight. Add an adjusting knot tied directly to your d-ring and use the d-ring as the slack tender. Cheap and really functional. Just about all of the climbers at work have converted to this system once they see it.

Tom

Best solution bar none. I'll never go back. Why would you carry a thick rope, a biner, and pullery if you didn't have to??

 

[TreeJunkie]

I assure you it isn't hard to spend 100-150 on a lanyard setup. We have this new guy working for us. Showed up w/ all of his own, brand new gear. lanyard consists of 10' fly, w/ double spliced eyes, snap, microscender, and twisted clevis. Add it all up and you have: (28*2)+(10)+(55)+(16)=137 bucks, not including shipping... So I guess you can spend ???? near 150.00

Anyway, I'm w/ tom's setup 8' of 11mm, red snap hook, attached w/ buntline, tied to the side d ring w/ knut knot, using the side d to tend the lanyard, one handed,simple and cheap... I put my grillon away for this set up... There is no need for fancy mechanical ascenders for a lanyard. All in all i think my lanyard cost me less than 20 bucks. More money to spend on other things.

I choose not to use climbing line b/c it's a little softer and doesn't run as smoothly as the static line. The stiffness can really help you w/ flipping, and I like it being an easily recognizable rope/easy to differentiate between this and my life line.

 

[SteveBullman]

Originally posted by Tom Dunlap


One way to tidy up your lanyard is to attach a small cord to the end of the lanyard and then tie it off to the belt slot on your d-ring. That keeps the tail from dragging around. Some climbers that use a long lanyard will daisy-chain the extra length.



Tom

tried your set up today, was surprised how easy it slack tends without a pulley. as for your suggestion above, doesn't this just cause a loop that snags on everything in sight?

 

[Nathan Wreyford]

I have found it really doesn't snag. Try it. Plus I think it is a better safety than a knot in the end of the rope.

.02

 

[SteveBullman]

what length strop do you use then nathan, mines 10ft

 

[Nathan Wreyford]

About 12ft. I'll get a pic. Would be neat if everyone did

 

[Ax-man]

I must be missing the boat some where along the line when it comes to tying the hitch adjuster to the D rings. I tried that set-up with some Sta-Set and small dia. Stable Braid using a Distel on NE HI -V. I went back to the pulley carabiner combo, this works smoother and easier to me than the D ring thing. I'm also using a Pinncle saddle with the over sized D rings, maybe that has a little something to do with it, I dunno.

I must be the lone soul member of DEDA club now. I wouldn't go up without it any more. I found a use for that second adjuster that I never would have thought of, when trimming or doing a small removal you can lasso a small limb and suck it in toward you, then cut it with the hand saw or prune some deadwood, instead of reaching out for it, brings the work in closer toward you.

Larry

 

[Tom Dunlap]

Larry,

You watch for new members at the front door, I'll watch the windows and the back door. Everyone is welcome into the DEDA club. I used mine this afternoon to get into a small silver maple. I can't think of a better way to enter trees that have climbable limbs. The tree was too small and easy to climb to use a throwline.

The medium sized d-rings on some saddles allows the friction hitch to bunch or choke in the ring if you pull the rope straight back. Think of straight out to your side as nine o'clock and away from your belly button is noon. With medium and large d-rings you need to tail slack in the 9:30 to 11 time frame. Another suggestion might be to use a hitch cord that is a little larger in diameter. Look at how you have the crossover exiting. Sometimes you can tie the hitch on the "bottom" to get it to be more fair.

Tom