Opinions?????

[stihlIT]

ANY opinion on the DOLMAR 7300 is it fast ..LIGHt ...as good as a 440 any input would be great...I do tree thinning for the mark twain nat. forest in missouri and time is money $45 an acre. cutting everything 11" at brest height and smaller I currently use a MS 310 and average 15 acres a week(4-8 hour days) I have looked at 372 xp's and 440's but the dolmar seems to be light and walking around on the sides of steep hills with a back pack full of gas and bar lube with a "heavy saw" is not efeciant like i said time is money I love my 310 (totaly stock with 20" bar)20 " bar so i dont kill my back bending over. but I need a lightweight saw that cuts FAST and the dolmar 7300 seems to be powerfull(by spec.) and light.also the 440 doest weigh much more than my 310

any in put would be great....THank you so much.

 

[spacemule]

The 7900 Dolmar will give you more displacement for the same weight.

 

[davefr]

Aren't these 70cc 14# saws overkill for the size of wood you're cutting?

Dolmar PS5100 is what I'd use but you're a good candidate for a custom tuned saw to maximize power/weight ratio.

ANY opinion on the DOLMAR 7300 is it fast ..LIGHt ...as good as a 440 any input would be great...I do tree thinning for the mark twain nat. forest in missouri and time is money $45 an acre. cutting everything 11" at brest height and smaller I currently use a MS 310 and average 15 acres a week(4-8 hour days) I have looked at 372 xp's and 440's but the dolmar seems to be light and walking around on the sides of steep hills with a back pack full of gas and bar lube with a "heavy saw" is not efeciant like i said time is money I love my 310 (totaly stock with 20" bar)20 " bar so i dont kill my back bending over. but I need a lightweight saw that cuts FAST and the dolmar 7300 seems to be powerfull(by spec.) and light.also the 440 doest weigh much more than my 310

any in put would be great....THank you so much.

 

[stihlIT]

BUT again Speed is the key, so a big saw like a 440 or 372 is fine by me due to the fact it will rip through a 11"(DBH) tree FAST thats why I ask about the dolmar cause' its light

 

[skwerl]

If I'm cutting 11" trees those big saws would stay on the truck. Hang around here a little while and start reading up on the 'woods modified' saws (as opposed to race saws). The 310 you own is a piggy homeowner's saw. If you want something in the same weight range with more power and better construction, look at the Stihl 361 or Husky 357XP. If you still want more speed and power, find a builder to port it for you.

Keep in mind that porting a saw only increases the power. Then you may still have to do things like increase the oiler pump capacity because the saw will outcut the oil output. I have two modded 346XP's with 8 tooth sprockets and I installed 359 oilers to keep up. Stihl has also gotten real stingy on their oiler outputs.

You're asking about jumping up to the next size range of saws, all of which will be a couple pounds heavier than the saws in the 60cc range. The bigger saws won't necessarily cut those small trees any faster. Chain speed is more important than brute power on smaller cuts. The midsize Huskies are running 14K rpm or better.

The 7300 Dolmar is identical in weight to the 7900 Dolmar, and both of them are as heavy as the Stihl 460 and Husky 372. All are noticably heavier than your lil piggy homeowner's saw.

 

[computeruser]

If you're set on going with a big saw, then go with the 7900 - same size as the 7300, but more guts than the 7300. Mine with a 20" bar is a blast. And it is comfortable to carry, balances well, etc.

 

[superman_36]

get a modded 5100 and you would be saving your body and cutting speed would be close i would think if you are less tired from a bigger saw it would be quicker from tree to tree just a thought. 11 inch is small a modded 5100 would go right through that

 

[asb151]

Another vote for a smaller displacement modified saw. Why carry around 14lbs all day when you can get the job done with a 12lb saw. In addition to the saws mentioned, a modded 359 (12.1 lbs) would work very well in this application (11 inch wood). Keep the bar length down (16 inch) to keep the saw as light & nimble as possible.

 

[pbtree]

Another vote for a smaller displacement modified saw. Why carry around 14lbs all day when you can get the job done with a 12lb saw. In addition to the saws mentioned, a modded 359 (12.1 lbs) would work very well in this application (11 inch wood). Keep the bar length down (16 inch) to keep the saw as light & nimble as possible.

What he said...

 

[stihlIT]

Well all this talk of modded saws has got me thinking but one question ..Where the heck can I get a modded saw OR can I just mod or have my 310 modded

 

[davefr]

No, I wouldn't spend money modifying a 310.

Start with a good saw like a MS260 or 361, Husky 346XP or 359XP, or Dolmar PS5100. The money you save by not buying bigger will pay for the mods and your benefit will be a higher power/weight ratio over stock saw.

Do a search using "modified saws" and you'll see members who provide this service.

Or modify it yourself. You can get a nice power increase just by opening up the muffler and retuning the carb.

 

[TimberPig]

Your 310 is a homeowner saw model. It is significantly heavier, and less well tuned than a similar displacement pro saw. You would be well ahead in terms of power and weight to sell it and buy a similar size pro saw. I don't know that anyone has taken the time to do any modifications besides opening up the muffler on one. You would likely be the first. Most who spend the money to mod a saw, at least want to start with the best platform they can. It would be equivalent to taking a junky econobox car, and hoping to mod it to keep up to a sports car. The sports car starts out slightly ahead of where the modded junker ends, and ends up well ahead of ithe junker once modded. I would do yourself a favor, and look into a better saw rather than putting more money into that one. If you must try and mod that one, start by opening your muffler. Instructions with pictures can be found by searching for "029 muffler mods" or something similar as this is the same muffler on your 310.

 

[TRUSSMAN]

StihlIT,
I have an older 026 Stihl, it is light and has good power for the size of the saw IMO. I have talked to several people who have modded 026's and they say they will run with a stock MS361. This saw is about 3lbs lighter than your MS310. I think the Dolmar and Husky have better anti-vibe systems from what I have read.
Jeff

 

[Tree Sling'r]

$45 an acre...I think I would get a raise before I got a new saw.

 

[stihlIT]

ITs good money really I can make a load in a short amout of time
i average around 5/8 an acre an hour and thats with my old "homeowner"piece of crap powerless HEAVY 310
lol

 

[tek9tim]

I do thinning for the Forest Service, and use an 044 with a 32" bar. Largely because that's what I use on fire, so that's what I use for project work. Also, being 6' tall, I don't have to bend over. I dunno exactly what you're looking at thinning, but most of what we do is doghair thick grand firs that're less than 8" dbh. Our less-experienced sawyers use 360's & 361's, and I've used them a bit, and hands-down prefer the 44. yes, it's heavier, but I end up moving it a lot less with the 32" bar than I do a 361 with a 25" bar. I end up more worked with the shorter bar on the lighter saw. Lots of people think longer bar=heavier=more work, but I see it as shorter bar=having to lift powerhead more & bending over more. The powerhead size is overkill, but if you run an 8-tooth sprocket and full comp, full chisel, you can rip. I run one all day, every day, all summer, on all kinds of steep hills. It's not that tough.

 

[DanManofStihl]

I would go with a ms 361 20in bar if I was going to be doing alot of 10 to 20 inch cutting that would be the way for me. I would go with that or a ms 440 I think the 440 would be over kill for the small trees but if you want speed that would be the way to go.

 

[John Ellison]

When talking about what size saw to use in what size timber I would rather see the stump dia. than dbh. You can bet there is a big diff in different parts of the country.
Also when guys are talking about 32" bars and small timber I think they should mention that they are wearing corks and walking the logs, because that is the easiest way to go from pt.A to B in their area.
I use to be of the long bar to save back side but no more. Bending over wont kill you and once you get used to it a saw with neutral balance is really nice to run. IF you are not wearing corks and walking the logs.
Stihlit, from what you have said about thinning I assume you are just dumping the trees and doing no limbing or bucking? If your stumps are mostly all less than 16" I would look at 60ccx16". You probably know this but unless you are an excellent and fast filer it would pay to look into a good grinder.
Oh, and your orriginal question, the 7900 is a great saw.

John

 

[CaseyForrest]

Dont know why everyone keep slamming the 310. MOST everyone here says, " Use the saw that fits you, one you are most comfortable with." I have a 310, can use it all day, and it makes money for me. My opinion is, comparing the 310 to the 361 is a no brainer. More money for a saw that isnt that much lighter and only .4 more horse. My 310 works just fine. I guess im the oddball though, Id rather use a 180 with a 14" bar to limb on the ground rather than something I dont have to bend over with, and Im 6'3". I do realize the 361 is a "pro" saw, and has its niche, but ANY saw will last forever if its taken care of.