Oregon 511A

[Patrick62]

The motor can be "reversed" if desired

It is a little involved, and requires a additional switch, and a bit of wiring.
I set mine up this way, and I believe it helps a bit.

You should be using a 3/16 wheel on that size of chain.
The "angle" of the wheel should be 50 or so degrees, set on the back wall of the machine.
30 degrees sideways of the tooth works well for me. I have not tried the angling of the tooth 10 deg side to side on the larger chain (interesting idea). Oh, fer damn sure only take a small cut on each pass.
Keep the wheel clean as it helps reduce the tooth heating effect.

What you are trying to do is make the grinder mimic what you are doing with a file. Once the machine is set correctly you can click right on around. Then do the other side (motor reversal...).

The 1/4 wheel set vertical does a fair job of setting rakers. You file the first raker with a gage, and then set the wheel hight to just barely touch. Then grind all the rakers.

If you like, it is Ok to touch up all the teeth with a file to really make them nice. Other than that, the 511 does a excellent job. I can get a chain sharp enough that the 460 has trouble pulling it in larger wood. Big fat chips flying.... :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Here is what I use when at home.....

Casey... are those still available? That's just what I have been looking for.

Ian

 

[Oregon Engineer]

I have the EFCO model chain grinder with the reversing motor.
The base does not have the tilt angle lines on it like the Oregon 511A does. I can tilt the base to the full stop on each side. Does anyone know if this provides the 10 degrees?

I looked at a exploded parts list of the TL-136 and it showed the detent stops for setting the grinder base to 10 degrees. If you have the TL-150 then I believe you need to set the 10 degrees by sliding the vise towards or away from you depending on which hand cutter is being sharpened.

 

[Urbicide]

Casey... are those still available? That's just what I have been looking for.

Ian

Ian, I thought that the Stihl bench mount filing guide was pretty slick until I asked about the price. About $150,
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/acc_filing.html#benchmount

Paid $22.95 for the Granberg guide from Bailey's.

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/31?mv_session_id=rv7B89bg&product_sku=15200

Vince

 

[Cubbby46]

511A Video

Oregon Engineer sent me a jewel, the Oregon 511A video instructions. I originally chose the Oregon as a result of these forums, and then actually using the one my Stihl dealer has in the shop. Its a VERY MUCH older model with reverseable motor, I believe, or he modded it himself.
The video is worth its' weight in gold.
It shows a few tricks that no amount of print media, IMHO, could duplicate.
In a past life many moons ago, I was a machinist: this chainsaw grinding thang however, is outside of my area of expertise (what little remains). The video demystified the manual and the proper techniques of using it.
Thanks OE!
BTW, does anyone else find that Oregon chains are easier to grind/sharpen that Stihl?
:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

John464,

The manual instructions for the grinder can be found at: http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/accessories/511AManual_3Lang.pdf

Page 15 shows you grinder settings and grinder wheel thickness for any Oregon chain. The down load is 7 megs so it may take some time.

OR

Call 503 653-4706 and request the 511A instructional video and the 511A grinder manual.

OR

Send me a PM with your address and I'll get it sent to you.

The grinder can put on a 10 degree down angle so don't forget to try it.

Once you have the grinder angles setup close to what you want then the next step is to experiment with the shape of the wheel edge. The instructions will tell you to put a full radius on the edge of the wheel. This works nice for an average grind but likely you will want something better. Slight changes to the wheel edge shape and depth of grind can make very big differences in the final sharpness of the cutter.

As an example: the picture below is a wheel profile for the 11H harvester chain. The flat is oriented horizontal.

Start with a full round wheel and slowly modify the radius until the cutting edge is what you want.
Then take a thin piece of metal and grind the wheel contour into it for future use as a wheel profile guide.