Oregon Replacment Tip Sprocket

[Oregon_Native]

when i got my PM610 it came with a pretty beat up 20 Oregon bar with the riveted on replaceable tip i had a bar to fit the saw already so i just swapped it out i finally got around to looking at it the rails are straight and not pitted at all but the tip had spread and the tip sprocket was wore out i was wondering if any one had a source for a replacement the Oregon chain website has nothing for this old of a bar it has me stumped. :Eye: :Eye:

the numbers on the bar:
7744 vl
200---D076

made in canada.

 

[Al Smith]

I think Baileys have them,but why not a new bar.They still make them,or a used one .That bar mount pattern fits anything from a 10-10 to super pro 81.For that matter,they pop up on e-bay,all the time .

 

[Oregon_Native]

just wanted to restore the bar as a spare it is in good shape the tip was just hammered though.

 

[Grande Dog]

What you have there has been replaced by the 200---D176 single rivet tip style bar. The only way to get the tip you're looking for is if somebody has them gathering dust on a shelf somewhere.

Grande Dog
Master Mechanic
Discount Arborist Equipment and Tree Care Supplies

 

[Molecule]

a small thing I've always wondered about ...

say for example you have the Oregon PowerMatch Plus bar in 3/8 x 050 gauge.

no matter what the gauge of the bar, they only make one tip, and it is 063 gauge. that is that, the replacement tip part number is the same for any width PowerMatch Plus bar!

so what happens, is that around the top, the 050 chain leaves the 051 bar groove and enters the 064+ grove of the sprocket nose. no problem there. Then the chain slings around the sprocket with almost no lateral support, where at 50 mph it then has to suddenly "refit" itself from a sloppy 064 groove to the 051 groove in the bar. You can distinctly feel the bumps on each side of the groove where the drivers have to negotiate themselves back to perfectly upright, where the two grooves meet.

I think that's the reason the drivers wear straighter and stay sharper in a ProLite bar than they do in a PowerMatch Plus bar, where the front edge of the drivers will get a rounded look. when running, each driver has to renegotiate that little bump ... over and over.

 

[Oregon_Native]

i looked over Baileys they show the exact tip i haven't ordered it but it is the same part.

 

[SawTroll]

say for example you have the Oregon PowerMatch Plus bar in 3/8 x 050 gauge.

no matter what the gauge of the bar, they only make one tip, and it is 063 gauge. that is that, the replacement tip part number is the same for any width PowerMatch Plus bar!

so what happens, is that around the top, the 050 chain leaves the 051 bar groove and enters the 064+ grove of the sprocket nose. no problem there. Then the chain slings around the sprocket with almost no lateral support, where at 50 mph it then has to suddenly "refit" itself from a sloppy 064 groove to the 051 groove in the bar..........

Do this apply to the GB Pro-Top also?

If that is the case, I might have to reconsider my choise of bar for the MS 361!
See this tread : http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=19104

 

[sedanman]

Another case of over-analyzing something to death.

 

[glens]

Consider how terrible it must be to have to re-enter the bar after leaving it entirely at the tail...

 

[Crofter]

Glen the rear of the bar grooves are funneled to help guide the chain into the groove. I have noticed exactly what Grande Dog mentions on the nose of the bars, and maybe I am being picky, but I take a screwdriver and tap it into the front of the bar groove and spread it to the same width as the nose sprocket rails to keep the drivers from hitting that dead sharp transition. Sometimes the rear of the sprockets have virtually no funnel to them and I give them the same treatment. Sure it will wear away, but wear ( lol ) does the results of that all go?

 

[Molecule]

but the tails have groove fairings ...

ok, but the groove at the tails have a 1/2" +/- of taper, to fair the driver link back into the groove. at the tip end, there is no such fairing when the chain comes around the nose sprocket, only a bump edge.

What I'm really trying to do is poke bar manufactureres a little ... is it really all that "financially impossible" to manufacture a nose that better matches the bar gauge ... 063 to 050 without a fairing ... right after a sprocket turn -? even 1/4" of fairing might not hurt

I know it's totally unscientific, but it "seems" to me that the edges on the driver links of my Match bars don't seem to last as long as the drivers in my laminated bars (which, unlike the replaceable tip bars, provide full guildance of the chain all the way around the nose) ? and I don't really find any decrease in bar life with the full length laminated bars anyway ... in fact, I think my laminated bars last longer ...

 

[WRW]

Another case of over-analyzing something to death.

Exactly. Think about gyroscopic principles and inertia...and the fact that the chain does not have the unguided section at the tip that it has at the sprocket.

 

[Crofter]

Molecule, I like the "groove fairing" description. I put it in myself. Some times the noses need straightening and sometimes the width discrepancy all seems to be thrown to one side and the screwdriver (wedge) needs some bias. I dont think the trouble is wasted. The last get together at Eagle lake, I heard EHP say that you had better put a hundred cuts at least on a bar to wear it in before you put it in competition. I think you have to go a long way before you get to the point of over analysing anything.

 

[WRW]

Crofter,
For competition, maybe. My understanding of this thread was that it was about bar tip restoration.

 

[Oregon_Native]

i emailed Baileys yesterday they don't have any thing in the three rivet style so i gave up on this bar and am going to use it as a jig for filing chain on.
it used a 69 drive link chain so the chain i have to fit that bar wont fit my new bar by one link.

 

[Crofter]

Crofter,
For competition, maybe. My understanding of this thread was that it was about bar tip restoration.

Yes, and I spoke about the misalignment that can exist when you replace a nose and that a friction and wear causing problem (that can be easily modified) exists on some new bars. It probably does't make a great deal of difference on a bar that is being used in pretty rough condidtions, but some of the longer bars are worth a pretty hefty chunk of cash. If a little attention to detail makes them last longer, why not.

 

[WRW]

Yes, and I spoke about the misalignment that can exist when you replace a nose and that a friction and wear causing problem (that can be easily modified) exists on some new bars. It probably does't make a great deal of difference on a bar that is being used in pretty rough condidtions, but some of the longer bars are worth a pretty hefty chunk of cash. If a little attention to detail makes them last longer, why not.

If it's misaligned on replacement, realign it. If it's new and misaligned, return it. The bar in question is 20" if I read the first post right.

 

[Crofter]

WRW
The misalignment that exists on a .050 guage bar is not there on a .063 that uses the same sprocket nose. That is the way they are built. On 50 and 58 guage bars, I choose to slightly widen the first half inch of the bar rails next to the nose piece to avoid having the chain drivers strike that sharp edge until they wear it out of the way. I dont mind if you find that frivolous. Lol!

 

[tree monkey]

those old oregon tips came in 50 or 58-63 ga. 2 different shapes. rear of tip pointed or squared tips. i believe i have both in stock, but not sure.

 

[SawTroll]

Another case of over-analyzing something to death.

I thought that was some of the inherert fun in such a site as this.

Into the bargain; Some times attention to detail does pay off......