I am getting ready to pour my concrete slab for my OWB (WoodMaster 4400). I was thinking instead of pouring the standard 3-4" slab and adding blocks that I would pour it 10" thick. I want it higher up anyway to make it easier to load wood and etc... Anyone see any issues I might run into doing this? I have to buy a minimum of 3 yards anyway and this would help use up the extra.
OWB Concrete Slab
- Thread starter PhinPhan
- Start date
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TonyG
ArboristSite Operative
Phin,
does the dealer sell a precast slab? This is the way we went and saved some money.
Three yards is going to make one hell of a slab.
does the dealer sell a precast slab? This is the way we went and saved some money.
Three yards is going to make one hell of a slab.
rx7145
ArboristSite Guru
My boiler sits up on blocks on a pad would not have it any other way.
Not a good pic but you can see it if you look close.
Not a good pic but you can see it if you look close.
bowtechmadman
Addicted to ArboristSite
If I had to reinstall I would definately block up to raise the door 6-12". I have a Woodmaster 5500. Sounds like you have a good idea using the blocks then cement to create a higher slab.
cityevader
ArboristSite Operative
Just a thought for something you'll likely never deal with...removal.
WAAAyyyy different, but I recently replaced/relocated my septic tank, and one contractor wanted to fill the old tank with concrete slurry. Ummm, but what about later when I want to change something and need to do some digging only to find an 8x5x4 ft block of concrete in the way?
The less material the better. Pavers in the post above sound great outside of earthquake areas. Maybe pour it thick but throw in a bunch of free stuff like rocks in the corner of the yard or neighbors pile of bricks or whatever?
WAAAyyyy different, but I recently replaced/relocated my septic tank, and one contractor wanted to fill the old tank with concrete slurry. Ummm, but what about later when I want to change something and need to do some digging only to find an 8x5x4 ft block of concrete in the way?
The less material the better. Pavers in the post above sound great outside of earthquake areas. Maybe pour it thick but throw in a bunch of free stuff like rocks in the corner of the yard or neighbors pile of bricks or whatever?
urhstry
ArboristSite Operative
Jkebxjunke
*Politically Incorrect*
The concrete pad i am using is already poured... several years ago.. I just need to move it. It was under a 12 ton feed bin... I think it will be strong enough
its about 8x8 and 6-8" thick fiber reinforced... that should be fun then just saw cut a notch out of the back .. not too bad I need to rent a concrete saw .. I need to cut a hole in the garage floor where the piping comes in.
its about 8x8 and 6-8" thick fiber reinforced... that should be fun then just saw cut a notch out of the back .. not too bad I need to rent a concrete saw .. I need to cut a hole in the garage floor where the piping comes in.clearance
Addicted to ArboristSite
4" is the min. for any slab. I have worked lots of concrete jobs, I know a few things about it. A 4" slab with solid concrete blocks on top to bring it to the desired height will work fine. Of course there is nothing wrong with a 10" slab. Use rebar, I mean it, tie a mat of 3/8" or 1/2" together on 1' centers. Make your forms dead level as well.
skid row
ArboristSite Guru
Still seems like alot of wasted concrete. Got anything else around the house you could form up and pour to get your 3 yard min.
iCreek
ArboristSite Guru
good idea
That sure sounds like a good idea, those model stoves with the feet seem to get blocked up anyway, it would be more solid sitting on a solid slab for sure. We just mixed our own and went with a 3"-4" slab for my stove.
That sure sounds like a good idea, those model stoves with the feet seem to get blocked up anyway, it would be more solid sitting on a solid slab for sure. We just mixed our own and went with a 3"-4" slab for my stove.
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ericjeeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ifn it was me
I would pour a nice large pad in front.. I mean large. 4 inch pour you get 81 square feet to the yard.
I would pour a walkway to the house too. That way it is easier to shovel the route.. I used pavers as I do not have mine setting on a pad.If I was to bring in a concrete truck I for darned sure will pour sidewalks and a feeding area around the front of my stove for the muddy/snowy days.
I would pour a nice large pad in front.. I mean large. 4 inch pour you get 81 square feet to the yard.
I would pour a walkway to the house too. That way it is easier to shovel the route.. I used pavers as I do not have mine setting on a pad.If I was to bring in a concrete truck I for darned sure will pour sidewalks and a feeding area around the front of my stove for the muddy/snowy days.
That sure sounds like a good idea, those model stoves with the feet seem to get blocked up anyway, it would be more solid sitting on a solid slab for sure. We just mixed our own and went with a 3"-4" slab for my stove.
Whats the foam for? I dont think I have ever seen it under a wood stove?
iCreek
ArboristSite Guru
Jack - the foam is insulation, we used it under the slab and then another piece under the stove (below pic). We figured if we can cut down the coldness between the frozen ground and the bottom of the stove the better off we would be. My Father-in-Law suggested it and he works with dirt and stuff like this all the time. Does that make sense?
I have in the plans to pour a 4 foot "loading" area for the muddy wet days. I have sort of a walkway now to where the stove will set with pavers. I thought I would pour a sidewalk next year.
No he doesn't have any precast slabs, he said to just set it on blocks only. I would like to just make it more permanent foundation.
HUSKYMAN
Addicted to ArboristSite
Erics idea of making the pad in front of the stove is a good one. I would pour the slab at four inches and do your sidewalks now. Why pay twice to have the concrete brought out? A nice loading area in front of the stove is great, plus it makes cleaning ashes up much easier.
Blocks for the stove are way cheaper than concrete. Usually the dealer brings the stove out on a special trailer with a hoist on it. The floor comes out of the trailer and the stove drops down. Your 10" tall pad would have to be wider than the delivery trailer and have dirt up to the top to get the trailer on it.
Blocks for the stove are way cheaper than concrete. Usually the dealer brings the stove out on a special trailer with a hoist on it. The floor comes out of the trailer and the stove drops down. Your 10" tall pad would have to be wider than the delivery trailer and have dirt up to the top to get the trailer on it.
iCreek
ArboristSite Guru
Agree 100%
I could not agree more..... after standing in the mud, loading the stove last year. My 2' in front of the stove is not near enough...
I could not agree more..... after standing in the mud, loading the stove last year. My 2' in front of the stove is not near enough...
Khtsr44
ArboristSite Lurker
Concrete
The three cy. min. does not mean you have to buy three cy.
They will charge you a fee for every yard under three.
Say maybe $25
The three cy. min. does not mean you have to buy three cy.
They will charge you a fee for every yard under three.
Say maybe $25
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