parts saw or worth messing around with?

[flatsfisher]

I sprayed the muffler bolts last night with PB Blaster and this morning shocked the bolts with a punch and the muffler came right off.
thanks for the tip!

 

[flatsfisher]

this is something I haven't seen since the late 70's

 

[flatsfisher]

I wonder if this is a vestige of black paint?

 

[flatsfisher]

only marking on the cylinder.

 

[flatsfisher]

 

[flatsfisher]

cylinder bore is immaculate. still has a lot of cross hatching. little bit of carbon on the dome.

 

[flatsfisher]

piston looks pretty good. intake side really nice. shallow scratching on the exhaust side. I think I would use it.

 

[flatsfisher]

crank has needle type bearings on small bearing and bottom rod bearing which look and feel perfect. big crank bearing is ball type and doesn't feel great when spun.

 

[flatsfisher]

rings were stuck into the piston grooves by carbon and were barely sticking out. walked them out with a pair of small screwdrivers.

 

[flatsfisher]

everything I circled in orange is what I would want to put this saw into service. plus a carb kit. and I'm sure there would be more. wow.

 

[Wolfy]

Most likely someone put it together using sealant, Indian Head or something similar that is keeping the insulator and carburetor in place. Also likely the gaskets will be destroyed when you get it apart but not to worry, gaskets are readily available (I have most on hand).

For the stuck screws, and impact driver may be helpful. The hex/socket heads are probably worn from heat and corrosion, sometimes you can get the next slightly larger (5mm in a 3/16 for example). Heat can also help, as will allowing them to soak with a good penetrating oil.

I don't remember where the driver came from, probably an auto parts store. The bits were found on Amazon.

View attachment 1006968

It is a normal 3/8 square drive so that socket will come off and I use a 1/4x3/8 adapter with a 1/4" socket to hold a normal hex bit. I know I should get a 3.8 drive 1/4" socket but I just haven't bothered yet.

View attachment 1006973

Mark

I have never used one of these. Do you hit it hard with a metal hammer or use a series of somewhat more gentle taps? Or maybe a dead blow mallet?

 

[Jasonrkba]

Very lightly with a deadblow tap it.

 

[heimannm]

If you are referring to the impact driver, you hit it as hard as necessary with a good ball peen hammer. Sometimes you have to hit them pretty hard.

Mark

 

[flatsfisher]

600443 is indeed a Super Pro 70, certainly there are parts on the saw that would be desirable. Do you have any idea if the cylinder is salvageable? How much are they asking?

Mark

bought it off facebook.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I wonder if this is a vestige of black paint?
View attachment 1007086

Id say carbon, I don't believe that those cylinders were ever painted black by the factory.

 

[flatsfisher]

Id say carbon, I don't believe that those cylinders were ever painted black by the factory.

on the 1st page of this thread, you and Jasonrkba said they came black.

 

[heimannm]

ff - I sell parts and have everything you have circled, but I'll warn you the parts are going to cost a lot more than you paid for the saw.

If you are interested, make it easy for me and put together a list with part number and descriptions in a PM, I'll run it down and give you prices.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

I cannot think of any McCulloch saw that ever had the cylinder painted black from the factory. Most were painted yellow after the saw was partially assembled.

By the mid to late 70's they pretty much gave up on painting assemblies and the cylinders were unpainted.

Mark

 

[flatsfisher]

ff - I sell parts and have everything you have circled, but I'll warn you the parts are going to cost a lot more than you paid for the saw.

If you are interested, make it easy for me and put together a list with part number and descriptions in a PM, I'll run it down and give you prices.

Mark

will do. I'll work on it in the morning. thanks.

 

[Captain Bruce]

ff - I sell parts and have everything you have circled, but I'll warn you the parts are going to cost a lot more than you paid for the saw.

If you are interested, make it easy for me and put together a list with part number and descriptions in a PM, I'll run it down and give you prices.

Mark

Again, some poor guy thinking a junk saw is worth re-storing. ALL used bearings, in any application, are to be replaced. Thats Shop 101. The engine is being re-built. Every service part must be replaced...or the job is a hack.

After all costs, and labor measured at $25/hr., what will the total be vs. something that serves a purpose......