If you are restoring an old saw with profit in mind you on most occasions are going to be disappointed. Restoring is a hobby and like most hobbies can get expensive. As far as the paint goes the yellow overspray is normal, the black not so much.
parts saw or worth messing around with?
- Thread starter flatsfisher
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Bruce. I'm not some "poor guy" you have to feel for. if I do this, it's for the project. I love projects. it's a learning experience. I have other saws that serve a purpose. also, I'm retired. my time is my own and its free to me.
Think of all the suckers tying flies for FISHING! what a bunch of hacks.
New saws a $1300.0 in this class of saws if you haven't checked, so I'd say he's ahead.
AND keep a heads up. some of them impact drivers will switch impact direction on their own after a sharp hard rap and when that happens you will be doing the impact driving in the wrong direction. I've got two that I've had for several years with several adapters and both of them will sometimes switch impact directions own their own for the next hit.
(switch from CCW to CW or tighten)
Very handy tool to have. Try to get a near perfect snug tight fit of the driver onto the part being removed.
501Maico
ArboristSite Operative
Try this. Hold downward and CCW pressure when using to loosen. That's how they are supposed to be held and work much better that way. I got my first one as a motorcycle mechanic in the late 60's and never had one reverse on me.
this showed up in today's mail. was the only part that was actually missing.
here's my muffler after wire wheeling and a couple of days in white vinegar. the baffle and cover are kinda ok, but the manifold is swiss. 
Can you braze with brass rod?here's my muffler after wire wheeling and a couple of days in white vinegar. the baffle and cover are kinda ok, but the manifold is swiss.
The old manifold can be repaired if you can't find a new one. Some sheet metal on the inside and braze will work, but you must remove the rust completely, muriatic acid will do the job. Back the holes with sheet metal, braze it up, fill the voids on the outside with more braze and then file it down to give an even surface for painting with heat paint. I've done this before on mufflers and you would never know the repair is there. Welding is not a good option, when metal is too thin you wind up burning through.
I think you guys have a good idea. and I think I need to take that approach to other things on this project. I could also make my own gaskets. prices on ebay are out of control. small gaskets 12 to 18.00 each plus 6 bucks shipping. half of my rubber parts are ok but not like new and I could probably make do. what do you think of the motor mounts? they are cracked but not broken loose. is there a way to treat them or reinforce them?
That intake shouls absolutely be changed.
I've treated dried out cracked rubber parts with "tire wet" which seems to help.
also, would you guys consider rubbing this piston lightly with 600 grit and re using it?
I've heard from an old Mac dealer never to use sand paper for a piston because particles of the medium could get stuck in the aluminum, I've cleaned them up with a fine scotch brite pads.
that would be prudent but I just watched an old vid of the Tinman sanding a piston. better safe than sorry I guess.
the cylinder is perfect, and I checked 6 or 7 spots and they all measured out to this which I suspect is pretty good for a 2" bore.
the rings even look good once I unstuck them from carbon in the grooves. going to check ring end gap tomorrow.
Yes, in my opinion that piston is very usable. Of course with new rings. When scuffing a piston it's a good idea to go around the piston, never up and down.
Ive swapped the bottom ring for the top one as the top wears faster.
I would thing you should be able to get new rings for it. Can't say I would tear a saw apart and cheap.out on such a critical part.
if you need a good laugh today, look at the gap on these rings. didn't think rings could wear that much, esp since the piston and cylinder are tight.
