Philbert's Chain Salvage Challenge

[Philbert]

Stuff like this is why I love this place.

Lots of good chain, guide bar, and sprocket wear diagnostics in the Oregon manual:
https://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/pdf/maintenance_manual/ms_manual.pdf

Of course, you would have to be a saw geek to sit down and read it (!) but there are lots of pictures to help!

Philbert

 

[Marshy]

Lots of good chain, guide bar, and sprocket wear diagnostics in the Oregon manual:
https://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/pdf/maintenance_manual/ms_manual.pdf

Of course, you would have to be a saw geek to sit down and read it (!) but there are lots of pictures to help!

Philbert

Just knowing the resource exists is well worth it. Even a quick browse I'm sure you'll learn something. Thanks for sharing.

 

[briantutt]

I might add that peening (or burring) on the bottom of the drive link teeth can also be created by a chain flying off the bar. It can get so bad so quickly that you cannot even mount the same chain back onto the bar without removing the burrs.

I can vouch for that I have thrown a couple chains at high RPMS on the 362XP and had to dremel the drive links to get it back onto the bar.

Brian

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Lots of good chain, guide bar, and sprocket wear diagnostics in the Oregon manual:
https://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/pdf/maintenance_manual/ms_manual.pdf

Of course, you would have to be a saw geek to sit down and read it (!) but there are lots of pictures to help!

Philbert

Carlton's contribution...

 

[Philbert]

I might add that peening (or burring) on the bottom of the drive link teeth can also be created by a chain flying off the bar. It can get so bad so quickly that you cannot even mount the same chain back onto the bar without removing the burrs.

I can vouch for that I have thrown a couple chains at high RPMS on the 362XP and had to dremel the drive links to get it back onto the bar.

As I understand it, burring of drive links on a thrown chain usually results from them hitting the spur sprocket teeth as they continue to spin - not from the edge of the guide bar rail. Here is my list of remedies (from another thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/deburing-drive-links.249436/#post-4625198)

1. Flat file on the burrs. Round file to reshape the scraper/ gullet portion if needed. I do this on a small anvil, small block of steel, or the back of a machinists vice.
Slow, but effective.

2. Hold loop 'inside out' and guide drive links against grinding wheel on a bench grinder.
Faster, but leaves rough finish.

3. As above, but use a 3M ScotchBrite (or equivalent) deburring wheel ($30 - $50).
About as fast as a grinding wheel, but leaves a smooth finish. ***My preferred method.*** Expensive, but 'pays for itself' by saving even a few chains.

4. 'Redneck Method #1': force burred links through the bars till they loosen up.
Not always possible. Causes extra wear on bars and sprockets.

5. . 'Redneck Method #2': lay burred drive link on small anvil and flatten burrs with ball peen hammer. Then follow up with . 'Redneck Method #1'.

6. I guess you could also clean up the burrs with a Dremel type tool. Never tried it.

I have seen some drive links actually break off - the ones with the 'Lubri-Link' oil holes in the middle. Those have to be replaced.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

As I understand it, burring of drive links on a thrown chain usually results from them hitting the spur sprocket teeth as they continue to spin - not from the edge of the guide bar rail. Here is my list of remedies (from another thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/deburing-drive-links.249436/#post-4625198)

1. Flat file on the burrs. Round file to reshape the scraper/ gullet portion if needed. I do this on a small anvil, small block of steel, or the back of a machinists vice.
Slow, but effective.

2. Hold loop 'inside out' and guide drive links against grinding wheel on a bench grinder.
Faster, but leaves rough finish.

3. As above, but use a 3M ScotchBrite (or equivalent) deburring wheel ($30 - $50).
About as fast as a grinding wheel, but leaves a smooth finish. ***My preferred method.*** Expensive, but 'pays for itself' by saving even a few chains.

4. 'Redneck Method #1': force burred links through the bars till they loosen up.
Not always possible. Causes extra wear on bars and sprockets.

5. . 'Redneck Method #2': lay burred drive link on small anvil and flatten burrs with ball peen hammer. Then follow up with . 'Redneck Method #1'.

6. I guess you could also clean up the burrs with a Dremel type tool. Never tried it.

I have seen some drive links actually break off - the ones with the 'Lubri-Link' oil holes in the middle. Those have to be replaced.

Philbert

I tried another method recently (similar to #2 above) that worked after a fashion. I have a small angular stick that holds my grinder/sharpener in the up position. I used that and mounted a flat 1/4" wide wheel that I then used to remove the burrs. I use the same wheel to drop rakers.

This chain was so badly burred by a throw off that nearly every drive link (70) would not go back into the bar. I machined them all and the chain could once again be used. The operator was inexperienced and had used the chain far too loosely on a new bargain saw -- a Poulan Pro no less with a 20" bar. It took about the same length of time as a good sharpening. I also did that afterwards. When I returned it to him I joked, "This chain has had so much attention that it might as well be made out of platinum."

 

[Philbert]

I have a small angular stick that holds my grinder/sharpener in the up position. I used that and mounted a flat 1/4" wide wheel that I then used to remove the burrs.

Good idea. The newer Oregon style grinders have a 'safety knob' that holds the motor in the full up position - this might be a use for it. Could always use a standard wheel and just re-dress it round, afterwards, if someone did not have a flat edge wheel. I am sure that I will use this idea someday - Thanks!

Philbert

 

[Little Al]

Just knowing the resource exists is well worth it. Even a quick browse I'm sure you'll learn something. Thanks for sharing.

Oregon used to do a pocket size booklet that listed the chain info & also the common faults/do/dont's for spockets bars, tips etc. Iv'e had mine for a good few years don't know if it's still available

 

[Wood Doctor]

Oregon used to do a pocket size booklet that listed the chain info & also the common faults/do/dont's for spockets bars, tips etc. Iv'e had mine for a good few years don't know if it's still available

I believe the title is Maintenance and Safety Manual. I have one (about 3" x 6") and keep it handy. Most of the info is valid today, but it begs for a revision. About 75 pages, the terminology alone is worth the read.

It's available in electronic form at the Oregon website. Click the bottom right corner to turn the pages:
http://oregonproducts.com/maintenance/manual.htm

 

[svk]

Here's one for you guys.

This is a chain off a used saw I acquired and the inside edge of the cutter is damaged. Assuming this shouldn't hinder performance being the leading edge isn't damaged?

 

[Philbert]

This is a chain off a used saw I acquired and the inside edge of the cutter is damaged. Assuming this shouldn't hinder performance being the leading edge isn't damaged?

The inside edge of the cutter does not do anything.

But not sure how they damaged the inside edge of the Left cutters without damaging the outside edges of the Right cutters. hard to tell from your photo.

Philbert

 

[svk]

The inside edge of the cutter does not do anything.

But not sure how they damaged the inside edge of the Left cutters without damaging the outside edges of the Right cutters. hard to tell from your photo.

Philbert

I did not observe any damage on the leading edge of the opposite cutters.

This chain appears to be two or three chains spliced together. It ain't pretty but at least all of the cutters are facing the same direction lol.

 

[Philbert]

This chain appears to be two or three chains spliced together. It ain't pretty but at least all of the cutters are facing the same direction lol.

Sounds like it might already be a salvage project!

Bring it with you next time we meet for coffee . . .

Philbert

 

[svk]

Sounds like it might already be a salvage project!

Bring it with you next time we meet for coffee . . .

Philbert

Will do. Potentially may need to GTG at that Mexican restaurant you mentioned.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I have to wonder if the chain wasn't mounted on backwards and the operator sharpened the trailing edge, thinking that he was sharpening the leading edge. After all, the trailing edge wasn't cutting very well. Just a thought.

 

[67L36Driver]

Bi directional chain.

That would be very handy. When it gets dull, just turn it around.

 

[mohick]

If you gotta carry a book with you ,you shouldn't be using a chain saw

 

[svk]

I think we've got something to work with here

Ironically the rest of the chain is perfect.

 

[Philbert]

I think we've got something to work with here . . . Ironically the rest of the chain is perfect.

If it's just a few links, easy options:
- shorten the loop for another saw; or
- spin in some donor links; or
- call it 'partial skip-tooth' chain!

Philbert

 

[briantutt]

I think we've got something to work with here

Ironically the rest of the chain is perfect.

View attachment 578968

maybe load it in upside down and sharpen the drive links. [emoji3]

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