Philbert's Chain Salvage Challenge

[Philbert]

Wouldn't those be the 2 on the left?

Thanks. Fixed it.

Philbert

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Was just too 'un-Philbert-like' to let it slide. LOL

 

[heimannm]

I bought this at Menards.



Here is the chain from the Mall 11 soaking, I can't remember if this was 24 or 48 hours but I was pretty busy that week with storm clean up so I left it in for 3 days (72 hours). It was rust free, but the steel was somewhat darkened by the solution. It actually made the chain look pretty good with the chrome cutters and the darker links.



Mark

 

[Philbert]

I bought this at Menards.

I think that Metal Rescue is similar to Evaporust, WD-40 Specialist® Rust Remover Soak, and maybe a few other products that I started to see a few years ago. Maybe some protections on the Evaporust formula ended? Maybe there are still some Coke/Pepsi/ RC Cola differences?

Evaporust seemed to work best on lighter rust, once the heavier stuff was removed, especially places that are harder to reach, or that you don't want to scratch. Turns metal black if left in solution 'too long' (I guess that you have to check progress regularly), which was supposed to be one of its advantages over the less expensive solutions (e.g. citric acid, oxalic acid, acetic acid/vinegar).

One key thing that the Evaporust guy told me was to keep the solution covered: if too much moisture evaporates it will not work as well. I used plastic food wrap over my trays. He also told me to keep using it until it stopped working - don't just rely on the solution turning dark. Good things to know, considering the price of the product.

Phiblert

 

[MacAttack]

I'm looking forward to trying some different methods to clean up those old chains. Some of it will be crude techniques. while I completely agree that a wire wheel is too aggressive for the cutters, there ain't no way I'm using those metal toothbrushes (as I call them) to descale the straps and drive links, I just don't have the time. That's only the really rusty chains that I'm sure are well pitted anyway. Im going to compromise and use a softer wire wheel on my angle grinder to hit the straps and drive links, and then something more precise for the cutters.
I have some CLR i might try to then remove corrosion, or whatever I can find thats saleable in NY (probably raccoon p*ss or something non-toxic).
Im getting to things at a very slow pace right now, but I will share my exploits.
Im mostly done fixing up my 1/4 chain on the SP40, i think im OK with how it's turning out. If it ends up good enough to trim the birch trees in my front yard Ill be happy.

 

[scottr]

Hey MacAttack , check your private messages .

 

[Wood Doctor]

... One key thing that the Evaporust guy told me was to keep the solution covered: if too much moisture evaporates it will not work as well. I used plastic food wrap over my trays. He also told me to keep using it until it stopped working - don't just rely on the solution turning dark. Good things to know, considering the price of the product.
Philbert

That's what I do. Occasionally I'll mix in some cleaning vinegar and give it a full 24-hr soak. Vinegar is cheaper than Evapo-Rust. Heloise recommends it. Heh heh heh...

Afterwards, it does takes some laundry detergent to clean up the mess (and my hands). When the rust is really bad, a few links still need some penetrating oil or diesel fuel.

 

[MacAttack]

I think I'm happy enough with the messed-up 1/4 chain on my SP40, cutters are fixed up reasonably and I filed the depth gauges to .025"
Also working on one of my rusty chains, cleaned it up with a small metal brush, now CLR to see how much I can clean it up.
Most important thing...that "aroma seal" lid!

 

[Philbert]

Also working on one of my rusty chains, cleaned it up with a small metal brush, now CLR to see how much I can clean it up.

Interested to hear how will it works.

*Remember: only use De-Caff coffee cans for low kick-back chains!

Philbert

 

[MacAttack]

Interested to hear how will it works.

*Remember: only use De-Caff coffee cans for low kick-back chains!

Philbert

I'm using French Roast for an aggressive cut!

Gonna let it soak a few days and see how it looks.

 

[MacAttack]

Jury is out on CLR...it definitely attacked the rust, but in ways I've yet to be seen. Seems to have removed rust but also turned the chain into a rigid chunk of metal which took some effort to get some links moving again. It's turned a blackish color with some white powder, i scraped much of it off with my brush but it's still ugly and rigid. Next step is trying a suggestion from Scottr, a good ATF soak, Ill give that a few days and see what I have.

Of course, once all this is done, Ill have to see if I have a saw that it will fit! I've got small McCullochs in 3/8 LP with 12, 14, and 16 inch bars.

 

[Philbert]

Was the loop seized up before the CLR soak?

Thanks

Philbert

 

[MacAttack]

Was the loop seized up before the CLR soak?

Thanks

Philbert

It was mostly movable, very stiff, except for the worst looking links. After CLR it stiffened a lot, Im guessing it swelled the rust in the links when it was attacking it.

 

[Philbert]

It was mostly movable, very stiff, except for the worst looking links. After CLR it stiffened a lot, Im guessing it swelled the rust in the links when it was attacking it.

I never had that happen. I had seized links that remained seized, despite rust removal chemicals (mostly acids), electrolysis, and the famous ATF/diesel soak, but never had any get worse. Some seized links were just dried up grease, not rust: freed up with some 3-In-1 Oil and some gentle tapping, then movement. But your photos seem to show the genuine iron oxide.

Philbert

 

[MacAttack]

I never had that happen. I had seized links that remained seized, despite rust removal chemicals (mostly acids), electrolysis, and the famous ATF/diesel soak, but never had any get worse. Some seized links were just dried up grease, not rust: freed up with some 3-In-1 Oil and some gentle tapping, then movement. But your photos seem to show the genuine iron oxide.

Philbert

This particular chain was sitting on the outside window sill of a barn for who knows how many years, haha. I'm anxious to see what happens with the ATF soak...

 

[heimannm]

One of the You Tube experts (Project Farm?) made a video testing several different rust removal agents. As I recall, Coca Cola, white vinegar, and CLR didn't do a lot. I don't remember if I posted already but I bought some product at Menards called "Metal Rescue" that worked well on a rusty chain took off a Mall two man saw.






f

Mark

 

[Philbert]

I do use CLR, by the way, to remove rust stains on fabric! Works great. Also on clogged shower heads.

I bought some product at Menards called "Metal Rescue" that worked well on a rusty chain took off a Mall two man saw.
Mark

Mark, do you recall if that chain was seized between the links? Penetration versus surface rust is a key issue here.

Thanks

Philbert

 

[67L36Driver]

What pitch & gauge is that Mark?

I’ve accumulated a pile of 7/16” & 9/16”.

 

[heimannm]

The chain had many joints that were seized, many loosened up after soaking ( I left it in for 72 hours since I was busy on cleanup in Cedar Rapids at the time) and the rust was gone, the unprotected steel turned almost black, and the chrome plating was untouched.

I use CLR on sinks, toilets, etc. that have mineral or rust accumulations but would not consider it a suitable solution for rusty steel products.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

3/4" pitch, I never bothered to check the gauge since I don't have anything else to use anyway.

Mark