Philbert's Chain Salvage Challenge

[PogoInTheWoods]

I bought some Mean Green...

Works great for bearing restoration in an ultra-sonic cleaner as well. I've revived two NLA/unobtanium Stihl bearings using the method.
As mentioned, quick drying and lubrication is required afterward, but don't be afraid to drop bearings, (or even a crank) into a 50/50 solution to let em soak for awhile if they're a little crusty. They'll thank you later..., especially when running a newly salvaged chain. (See how I did that?)

 

[Philbert]

I started using the water-based degreasers, instead of petroleum solvents, cleaning up bicycle parts, because I was often working indoors, and did not want the odors or fire hazards.

‘Discovering’ sodium hydroxide was a ‘lucky accident’ for me, because one product had it and another did not. Of course, ‘lye’ has been used for ages (lots more on this in early pages of this thread).

A chemist convinced me that commercial, water-based degreasers containing sodium hydroxide, also contain detergents, surfactants, and other stuff that make them a better choice that pure lye.

I usually use ‘SuperClean’, but will check out ‘MeanGreen’ next time I am at that store where you save BIG money! Zep, and others also sell some similar products.

Just a reminder that sodium hydroxide is a caustic that is often a key ingredient in drain cleaners. So wear gloves and eye splash protection.

Sodium hydroxide will also react with aluminum, so I would avoid prolonged contact with aluminum or painted parts. And rinse well.

But for greasy, gunky chains, it is my go to product!

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Not a chain. . .


This is a tube flaring tool that I acquired across 2 different garage sales, more than a year apart (don’t tell me that hoarding does not pay)! Part was in a ‘FREE’ box; I paid $2 for the matching part.

They did not look like this, but cleaned up nicely in the same, dilute, citric acid bath I started using 30+ pages ago.

I just got a scrap of plastic gutter, and a couple of end caps, and made a long trough that I am planning to use for some longer, slightly rusted stuff.



Philbert

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Those tools came out mighty nice.

I've found an old scabbard to come in handy for soaking various items aside from bars and chain. It's out of the way I where I won't spill it or trip over it. Biggest problem is remembering I have something in it.

​

 

[Philbert]

I've found an old scabbard to come in handy for soaking various items aside from bars and chain. It's out of the way I where I won't spill it or trip over it.

Great idea, and use of indigenous materials !

I thought about PVC pipe, capped at one end, but wanted to observe the progress. Right now I have 25 cents invested in this gutter / trough (cast away parts), so I’m going to start with it.

But I like the scabbard idea!

Philbert

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

@Philbert how did your bowsaw turn out?

One I raced with and traded away after figuring out that wasnt for me. 42" blades if I recall right on mine.

 

[Philbert]

@Philbert how did your bowsaw turn out?

Still on the project list!

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Brass

Been a while.

Still using the methods described. Still have piles of chains. But I also clean up other stuff, sometimes using similar methods, materials, etc.

Picked up a bag of (mostly) brass fittings for air compressors, etc. Could have gone into the scrap / recycle pile. Thought I’d try and see if some could clean up easily for reuse.

Thought about CLR, for some reason, but label says ‘not on brass’. Internet said vinegar, sometimes mixed with salt, flour, baking soda, etc. Just trying to clean off the crud, not polish it to look new.

First batch I used plain, white, cooking vinegar (acetic acid). Soaked for just a few minutes, then used a toothbrush, fine wire brush, ScotchBrite pad, etc.

Worked pretty well (sorry, no ‘before’ photo).


Second batch I used the same, powdered, citric acid, dissolved in water, that I use for surface rust on chains, with the same brushes, etc.

Worked pretty well. Satisfied with both. Good results with minimal effort.


Not sure which worked ‘better’. Did not want to use a polish like ‘Brasso’, which might be better for something where appearance matters.

Philbert

 

[buzz sawyer]

Brass

Been a while.

Still using the methods described. Still have piles of chains. But I also clean up other stuff, sometimes using similar methods, materials, etc.

Picked up a bag of (mostly) brass fittings for air compressors, etc. Could have gone into the scrap / recycle pile. Thought I’d try and see if some could clean up easily for reuse.

Thought about CLR, for some reason, but label says ‘not on brass’. Internet said vinegar, sometimes mixed with salt, flour, baking soda, etc. Just trying to clean off the crud, not polish it to look new.

First batch I used plain, white, cooking vinegar (acetic acid). Soaked for just a few minutes, then used a toothbrush, fine wire brush, ScotchBrite pad, etc.

Worked pretty well (sorry, no ‘before’ photo).
View attachment 1182142

Second batch I used the same, powdered, citric acid, dissolved in water, that I use for surface rust on chains, with the same brushes, etc.
View attachment 1182143
Worked pretty well. Satisfied with both. Good results with minimal effort.

View attachment 1182141
Not sure which worked ‘better’. Did not want to use a polish like ‘Brasso’, which might be better for something where appearance matters.

Philbert

Ever try this stuff? Works great on cartridge shells..

 

[heimannm]

Before



After



Since I have it on hand I used Evaporust. Chain soaked for about 3 days. Following the Evaporust I washed it in water, dried it with air, then gave it a scrub in the parts washer tank with mineral spirits and a wire brush. It did take some scrubbing to get the black off after the Evaporust but the chain actually came out looking as good as could be expected. I did have to clamp a few drive links in the vise in order to get the links freed up.

A lot of the chrome is gone from the cutters so I don't expect this chain to work very well. Most likely the interesting bow bar will just go into the display.



Mark

 

[Philbert]

Ever try this stuff? Works great on cartridge shells..

I knew someone here would post about cleaning cartridge brass!

That stuff is a lot more expensive than household vinegar or citric acid. But it might work better on firearm residues (?).

Website says it is also acidic (pH 3 -5).

Since I have it on hand I used Evaporust.

Evaporust, and similar products, work good on steel. Never tried it on brass (container says its OK to use on brass).

Food grade, powdered, citric acid is $4 to $5 for a pound, online. Mix a few tablespoons with some warm water; you can try different concentrations, and soaking periods.

I have not had any steel turn black with citric acid.

Philbert

 

[Brufab]

I had stuff turn black with the vinegar I think? I know it when I did some chains there was a lot of blackish liquid left and while handling the chains to wipe down and dry I know my hands were black lol. Chains looked really good though

 

[Philbert]

I had stuff turn black with the vinegar I think?

It’s mostly cosmetic. Stuff I tried, and posted in the early parts of this thread, when folks were sending me a bunch of rusty chains:

Vinegar (acetic acid) is cheap, and readily available. Most people have it in their kitchen. Works. Has a slight smell, can turn steel black after a while (think ‘tactical’!).

Oxalic acid (buy as powder online) can turn steel green after a while (think ‘Cabelas’ / ‘camo’!).

Phosphoric acid (‘Naval Jelly’) says ‘keep away from chrome’, so I don’t use it on saw chains.

Strong, inorganic acids (hydrochloric, sulfuric, nitric, etc.) are nasty, and can eat the good metal too!

EvapoRust (and similar ‘chelating’ products) can also turn some metal black, if left ‘too long’. Expensive.

Electrolysis has worked on a lot of items for me, but blew the chrome off one chain. There might have been corrosion underneath? ‘Spooked’ me, and I have not tried it on chromed items since. I should give it another try. Requires a little bit of setting up.

So citric acid (powdered, food grade) is my ‘go to’ for most things.

I wash rusty stuff in water first (ironic, right?) to get the heavy rust off. Maybe hit it lightly with a wire brush. Also, degrease it so that any chemicals can reach the rust.

Philbert

 

[Brufab]

I'll have to try the citric acid. Sounds like the best of both worlds

 

[Rooshooter]

Strong, inorganic acids (hydrochloric, sulfuric, nitric, etc.) are nasty, and can eat the good metal too!

I use phosphoric acid to clean heavily rusted chains, however you can not leave them in too long and it does blacken the metal, hydrochloric eats the hard chrome on chains, ( one of my customers bought in about 10 chains he cleaned with hydrochloric and there was almost no hard chrome left on the cutters )

 

[pdqdl]

I'll have to try the citric acid. Sounds like the best of both worlds

Oxalic acid works very well, with no harm done to the base metal that hasn't rusted. I have 50lbs of it, and use it occasionally to remove rust stains from concrete or other structures.

Curiously, it is also used as a fumigant for varroa mites in bee hives.

 

[Philbert]

Oxalic acid works very well, with no harm done to the base metal that hasn't rusted.

The guys who collect old beer cans like it.

Philbert