Pinched bar?

[rreidnauer]

I'm coming down the home stretch getting the 028 all fixed up. I picked up a new 16" Rollomatic E bar and an RS chain loop. When I installed it, I noticed the chain rivits were contacting the guide plates, making it impossible to pull the chain through once the bar nuts were tightened up. So I bought another set of guide plates, and cut down the old ones to where they only contact the bar, to act like spacers. That worked perfectly, and the chain clears by several thousandths now. But, when I tighten up the bar nuts, it still binds up. Not nearly as much, as I can pull chain through by hand, but it's still quite tight, even if I have the chain on loose enough to just slightly sag.

What should I make of this? Is this considered normal, and will wear in? I've had a similar problem with an Oregon Power Match Plus bar, where the chain was very tight, but that was just some paint in the groove. That don't seem to be the case for the Stihl bar. I'll add that I have confirmed correct pitch and gauge of all cutting equipment parts.

 

[Wood Hick]

Lay your new chain on a flat surface and look for a high spot. If you see any space from the underside you have a bent link, which can cause the problem you are describing. I have had this happen a few times with "new" chain over the years. If you do find a bent one, one good smack with the BFH usually fixes it!

 

[rreidnauer]

I'll take a look at the chain a bit closer, and see what I come up with.

I want to add that I have the green lable bar combined with the RS (yellow lable) chain. At first thought, I couldn't see what difference the bar would make. Pitch and gauge are the same. But now I'm wondering.

 

[Bill G]

If you are looking for a bent link on a new chain I would check the master(yellow) link. If the chain was improperly punched out from a reel there will be a bend at the connecting link.

Bill

 

[Justsaws]

Bend the guide plates out. Sometimes they can be to flat or not the correct profile.

 

[Engineeringnerd]

I just bought an Oregon MicroPro-Lite and had a similar issue. I loosened the bar nuts several times to check for a bind, and couldn't find one. I'd tighten them again, and the chain would freeze.

Ended up it was just the chain biting into the paint on the rails. I put the bar in a vice (with chain still on), and put a screwdriver sideways behind one of the rakers where I could get some good "pull" and pulled the chain forward. Paint peeled off for a few rounds, then it loosened right up.

Can't say this is what you have, but that's my story.

 

[16gauge]

I'm coming down the home stretch getting the 028 all fixed up. I picked up a new 16" Rollomatic E bar and an RS chain loop. When I installed it, I noticed the chain rivits were contacting the guide plates, making it impossible to pull the chain through once the bar nuts were tightened up. So I bought another set of guide plates, and cut down the old ones to where they only contact the bar, to act like spacers. That worked perfectly, and the chain clears by several thousandths now. But, when I tighten up the bar nuts, it still binds up. Not nearly as much, as I can pull chain through by hand, but it's still quite tight, even if I have the chain on loose enough to just slightly sag.

What should I make of this? Is this considered normal, and will wear in? I've had a similar problem with an Oregon Power Match Plus bar, where the chain was very tight, but that was just some paint in the groove. That don't seem to be the case for the Stihl bar. I'll add that I have confirmed correct pitch and gauge of all cutting equipment parts.

I had this problem on an 026. It turned out to be wear in the clutch and clutch bearing. It was something I've never seen before or since but it could be...