Pioneer chainsaws

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I was in the Phoenix area 1971 through 1973 (off to SE Asia) then again 1974 through 1979. I didn't see a lot of trees other than palms in Phoenix.
Moved to the high desert of NM (Alamogordo). 30 minutes up the mountain side there, and you find all kinds of trees. NM is where I bought my FarmSaw.
 
I'm looking for a white ignition coil for a P50. It's getting to be a tall order. Are there any other models that will work? Will the blue one from a P51 work for me?
 
Pioneerguy600 (Jerry) and another gent whose name escapes me, talk earlier in this thread (different points) about retaining the laminated core and replacing the coil for a FarmSaw. I'd think something similar can be done for any pioneer.
Lou
 
Pioneerguy600 (Jerry) and another gent whose name escapes me, talk earlier in this thread (different points) about retaining the laminated core and replacing the coil for a FarmSaw. I'd think something similar can be done for any pioneer.
Lou

Alright, I'll do some searching. we almost need a sticky for the sticky, I think it would be nearly impossible to read through all 471 pages.
 
I was discussing that with Jerry and finding a module with the correct timing is the chore. The next thing I was going to try unless someone tells me it's a waste of time was to try a chip with a failed coil. I think the module portion fails but the coil may still be good. I haven't gotten around to it but if you have an atom or nova chip you could try, it may be worth it.
Jerry is looking for a direct swap in so people don't have to fiddle with the timing.
 
Alright, I'll do some searching. we almost need a sticky for the sticky, I think it would be nearly impossible to read through all 471 pages.
Farley9n was the other other gent. These links had photos but it doesn't really matter. It works pretty much as I suggested. Jerry made some pretty large modifications to the lamination to fit the interior of the coil. Enough length of the spark wire is probably most important.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/pioneer-chainsaws.70698/page-375#post-4010503
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/pioneer-chainsaws.70698/page-197#post-2450266
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/pioneer-chainsaws.70698/page-196#post-2448530
 
I don't think I have the drive/knowledge/parts for that. The other way to go I suppose would be parting it out, or selling it for parts.
 
Pioneer guy your knowledge please.

Poor candidates for hopping up, the stock HL can deliver all the fuel a 103cc cylinder can pull into it. The exhaust ports can be opened just a tad each but you must retain the bridges to keep the rings from snagging, the intake is already more than adequate. Big problem with the RA and the 600 series saws is the reciprocating assembly, the heavy flywheel and crank cannot withstand increased RPM and the connecting rod is made too light to withstand heavy pounding the piston would subject upon it. These saws were designed as high torque ,low RPM engines which they do well at but don`t mod well to higher RPM. Many members have tried porting these engines but all the ones that have contacted me have ended in failure.
 
Yeah the rods do seem light. The piston seems a little light weight I have one that must have got hot its dished a bit. I just wondered what little things you could do make it a bit more than average ra do you run your timing at stock 30 degree's? Thanks for your input.
 
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