Sam Snushall
ArboristSite Lurker
thanks man, incorrect details are better than no details lol
Pioneer chainsaws
- Thread starter WesternSaw
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it is til someone's hawkin something as authentic, and I want it & don't know better. I was steered away by someone here. I have a few incorrect runners, too, and they would be sold or described as such.
Sam Snushall
ArboristSite Lurker
i get that, would only be until i find original anyway, afriend of mine a few hours drive away thinks he may have a 3270 parts saw for me, he wants a hand to clean up his saw collection etc and i can have it, just have to get some free time, india cant have enough logs at the moment it seems lol
Treeguynebc
ArboristSite Lurker
Treeguynebc
ArboristSite Lurker
And by choke I think I mean primer bulb, top right on back of saw.
Good solid looking old saw, unfortunately there is not much available for parts for these saws now. The rubber parts in the primer pumps are usually just globs of goo, very hard to find replacements.
got 2270, broke primer. put choke carb off 1200 on it. dunno what would work on 3270, [have one o those, too, but no spares] tho. strong saw if ya get it goin. if all else is good, you could bottle feed it to prime/cold start. they start like anything else once warm.
Pionner RA-450-A-B
New Member
Hello All. I'm new to this site and to old chainsaws.
I recently got my grandfathers IEL Pioneer RA chainsaw and am interested in getting it running again. It sat for years with bad gas in it and I have begun taking the fuel system apart to clean out the gummed up gas. I don't want to do a total restoration, just get it cleaned up and running strong. There are a few cool service stickers on the saw, as well as some farmer 'improvements' that my grandfather made that I want to keep (copper pipe between the handle and the head). I would also like to use the saw as it was intended.
I've got an original owners manual that I bought off of ebay. Its a real beauty, too nice to use while working on the saw! http://www.ebay.ca/itm/291246321578
I'm ordering a new gasket kit for the Tillotson HL carb and I hope to get away with just replacing those parts with a good soak in carb cleaner.
I have spark, but I wasn't able to get it to fire when I put a little gas in the cylinder. It seems to have good compression or at least it has good resistance when I turn it over.
This page on Mike Acres site has been a great source of info on the saw:
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...fb647dcc59038d3f88256af9001b5608?OpenDocument
My questions/problems are:
-R
I recently got my grandfathers IEL Pioneer RA chainsaw and am interested in getting it running again. It sat for years with bad gas in it and I have begun taking the fuel system apart to clean out the gummed up gas. I don't want to do a total restoration, just get it cleaned up and running strong. There are a few cool service stickers on the saw, as well as some farmer 'improvements' that my grandfather made that I want to keep (copper pipe between the handle and the head). I would also like to use the saw as it was intended.
I've got an original owners manual that I bought off of ebay. Its a real beauty, too nice to use while working on the saw! http://www.ebay.ca/itm/291246321578
I'm ordering a new gasket kit for the Tillotson HL carb and I hope to get away with just replacing those parts with a good soak in carb cleaner.
I have spark, but I wasn't able to get it to fire when I put a little gas in the cylinder. It seems to have good compression or at least it has good resistance when I turn it over.
This page on Mike Acres site has been a great source of info on the saw:
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...fb647dcc59038d3f88256af9001b5608?OpenDocument
My questions/problems are:
- The gas cap is stuck in place and I can't get it to budge, even with a strap wrench. Any tips on getting this unstuck? It must be glued in there with old gas.
- What product do you use to dissolve old gas?
- The starter is pretty stiff and doesn't recoil very well. Any tips on servicing this, and what should I clean up/replace while in there?
- What is a good source for a replacement cord? I'm on Vancouver Island, BC, Canada btw.
- Is there any servicing that can be done to the magneto to get the best spark? I'm a total noob with magnetos, are there points that should be filed?
- Compression testing, any info on how to do this with a saw would be much appreciated.
-R
Very nice to see you posting over here in the Pioneer thread. I am sure you will receive lots of help from the fellows that follow this thread. Many of us have RA`s and sort of like them a lot.
I have ra parts if anyone needs.
Hey Pete, the new guy Pioneer RA-450-A-B is looking for a few things, he had PM ed me and I suggested he post in this thread to see if some members can help him.
don't see him here. thought maybe ya meant the new treeguy up the page.
Ya, we will let him post more of what he needs, he`s new to forums so lets cut him some slack and answer his questions one at a time.
Your RA has a coil and points+ condenser under the flywheel. The points need to be perfectly clean and shiny and set to .020, you need to remove the flywheel to access them.
spoke to him via pm
Treeguynebc
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks! Landed on this site very much by chance, was going to sell the saw but now want to mak'er go! It seems in real good shape.
To cut down on the confusion I will answer using the quote method,
You will likely have to use a pipe wrench or a large set of pliers to get that gas cap off, it might even break but that is what happens when they weld themselves on when old gas is left in them.
You need to take the recoil off and likely clean up the recoil spring area really well, old sawdust and water get in there and gunk stuff up, you can oil the recoil spring and spindle for the recoil rotor but don`t oil the washers that hold the starter dawgs in place, they must be kept dry to operate properly.
You can get a length of 5 mm starter cord from any small engine shop, even the new multi colored stuff works really well in them.
To get the best spark you will need to remove the flywheel and the points are under a shiny metal cover held in place with a spring metal wire holder that just rotates away to allow the Wico cover to be removed, the points are under that cover and can be serviced like any other set of points. The contacts need to be perfectly clean and shiny to work properly, gap them .020.
Set the gap between the coil and flywheel between .008 and .012, I usually just use a business card inserted between the flywheel and the coil. Start with the magnets facing away from the coil, insert the card with the screws loosened on the coil frame, then rotate the flywheel til the magnets face the coil, the magnets will pull the coil frame in tight, tighten the holding screws and then remove the card by rotating the flywheel counter clockwise.
For compression testing you need a small engine compression tester that has a Schrader valve in the tip of the hose that screws into the cylinder sparkplug hole. If you use a common automotive compression tester you will get a much lower compression reading than the actual compression the cylinder has, this is due to the small volume of air a chainsaw cylinder pumps out, the automotive testers are designed for 4 stroke engines while the small engine comp testers are designed for two stroke engines.
Sam Snushall
ArboristSite Lurker
what is the secret to doing that, i have been doing it with mine but it seems if you block primer line from filter off the carb floods itself straight away and if not blocked it sucks air, thanks, Sam
Probably posted this before,,this is mine, the guy I got it from has another in the box.
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