Pioneer chainsaws

[Hoggwood]

I would like to see price lists from back in the day. What did the saws cost when they came out? I bought my Jonsered 670 new but broken up from falling out of a truck for half price in 1985. It was $700 Cdn back then. Got it for 350. Was earning $11/hr at the local saw shop as there was no electrician jobs at the time. That Jonny was about two weeks wages new. Curious what a P41, P51 and P61 cost in 1980s?
That was a time hard on Pioneer as I recall the saw men were being replaced by harvesters and the European saws were the rage. Everyone wanted a Husky or Jonsered then. Stihl not so much as they were a bear to start for some reason. We mainly had Stihls in the shop that would not start! Do not recall any Pioneers ever. Now I love em!

I have the original receipt/paperwork for one of my Farmsaws. May of 1980. $316.95 before taxes. Included 18" bar and chain. Given inflation adjustment through the Bank of Canada app, that puts the machine at $1079.21 (taxes in) today here in BC. I also have the original receipt from the big bomber Echo my dad bought new in '78. Given earning potential and interest rates during that time, folks paid a princely sum for saws. Even more so for professional models. Heck, going off of a Homelite list from '76 puts a SEZ-AO at about $1200 in todays Canadian buck.

Part of the reason I really enjoy (saving) the old machines from that era is they represented significantly large investments for people then. In that, one can truly appreciate that original investment someone else made when getting to buy/restore/run their machines. Bonus is if they really took great care of them and/or ran them little. 1980 Farmsaw.

 

[p61 western]

I have the original receipt/paperwork for one of my Farmsaws. May of 1980. $316.95 before taxes. Included 18" bar and chain. Given inflation adjustment through the Bank of Canada app, that puts the machine at $1079.21 (taxes in) today here in BC. I also have the original receipt from the big bomber Echo my dad bought new in '78. Given earning potential and interest rates during that time, folks paid a princely sum for saws. Even more so for professional models. Heck, going off of a Homelite list from '76 puts a SEZ-AO at about $1200 in todays Canadian buck.

Part of the reason I really enjoy (saving) the old machines from that era is they represented significantly large investments for people then. In that, one can truly appreciate that original investment someone else made when getting to buy/restore/run their machines. Bonus is if they really took great care of them and/or ran them little. 1980 Farmsaw.

View attachment 580265

Great post and very nice looking Farmsaw.

 

[rocketnorton]

didn't get to lookin for more price lists, and will be out for w/e. will do next wk.

 

[jaycutaz]

for fixing the swelling problem i get. what about when the caps start leaking? Is there a way to repair them or rebuild them?

 

[Lou]

for fixing the swelling problem i get. what about when the caps start leaking? Is there a way to repair them or rebuild them?

Look in the bottom of your tank for loose parts...
The IPL will show the correct order to reinstall them...
That's often a by product of fuel cap swelling.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

From my P62. Only missing the retaining chain...

 

[brandonstc6]

I got pioneer p51 parts today and it looks like I got 3 good crankshafts, 1 good cylinder and piston, 1 flywheel and one good crankcase. I will use the best crankshaft and case to fix my p52.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Scott G]

New to the list and have been trying to read backwards thru the latest posts. What a great repository of knowledge! A good friend got a place in northern Montana and brought me the "old saw" that was in his shed. It would start if I direct primed it bit the oem primer diaphram was shot and I wasn't having any luck finding the parts so I modified it to use a bulb primer. Starts and runs solid now but before I take it back to our family place nearby to my friends I want to get a spare chain or two. Not having any luck finding .404 x .050 chain here in the Seattle area. Any recent sightings of chain? I figure I could change out the bar if I had to but I like the one on with the big lettering! I am a confessed toolaholic and reading the list has me thinking that I "need" a big brother to it, maybe something with about a 32" bar, just to help out my friend of course!

 

[Hoggwood]

Here is the link and copied post of what I tried with one fuel cap a year ago or so. I ended up adding a bit more Seal-all around the tube to build up the contact area. I did it over several applications. Still holding well. Not a sexy approach, but functional.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/pioneer-chainsaws.70698/page-506#post-5806563

Here is a solution I came up with for the larger P-series caps leaking through the vent mechanism. Nothing fancy.

The guts of those caps are usually way past due. I simply stripped the inside and used a small finishing nail pushed through the vent hole in the cap as a "post" to set a short length of pen tube I had snipped off. I then swirled around some Seal-all, filling in the cavity around the pen. After it dried, I fit a Poulan duckbill on the vent tube and removed the nail.

Works like it should now.

Cory

 

[fossil]

View attachment 580408 New to the list and have been trying to read backwards thru the latest posts. What a great repository of knowledge! A good friend got a place in northern Montana and brought me the "old saw" that was in his shed. It would start if I direct primed it bit the oem primer diaphram was shot and I wasn't having any luck finding the parts so I modified it to use a bulb primer. Starts and runs solid now but before I take it back to our family place nearby to my friends I want to get a spare chain or two. Not having any luck finding .404 x .050 chain here in the Seattle area. Any recent sightings of chain? I figure I could change out the bar if I had to but I like the one on with the big lettering! I am a confessed toolaholic and reading the list has me thinking that I "need" a big brother to it, maybe something with about a 32" bar, just to help out my friend of course!

I'm just waiting on some seals and bearings for an 11-60. Interesting that mine has a choke and yours a primer. I wish mine looked as good as yours.

 

[jaycutaz]

Thanks Hoggwood Looks like a good fix

 

[Just a Guy that cuts wood]

Well I am working on the p-42 same thing Walter did other than I was going to weld square to the top of coil and drill out a new hole
I did order 2 from 2 manufacturers HiForm from amazon and HIPA from ebay
now I need to find out witch flywheel Walter has
Anyway this is the HiForm
Note the center and bottom hit the flywheel and the top gap is 0.036 so I split the difference about 0.017 feeler gauge sticks to magnet so # is only close


Saw starts and runs but looking at the spark through an indicator it looks week
saw is hard to restart
Going to try and dremel some meat out of the center and retest

 

[Walter Glover]

Just a,
Used the flywheel as is
Will check numbers later
Can check spark strength as well
Your mounting looksgood
How did you do that again?

 

[Rui Ramalho]

Newbie here
I just started a strip down on a nu17 to find that my coil is shot and I'm missing the spark plug cover and the air filter cover too.
I would like to ask you guys if I can get the covers and if it's possible to custom fit a new coil using a bit of persuasion.
Please forgive me if I'm on the wrong thread
Thanks for your time
Rui

 

[Walter Glover]

Newbie here
I just started a strip down on a nu17 to find that my coil is shot and I'm missing the spark plug cover and the air filter cover too.
I would like to ask you guys if I can get the covers and if it's possible to custom fit a new coil using a bit of persuasion.
Please forgive me if I'm on the wrong thread
Thanks for your time
Rui

Rui, welcome to the forum!
OK how did you determine the coil is bad? Have you checked, cleaned and set the points?
Cheers
Walter

 

[Rui Ramalho]

Hi Walter and thanks
Pulled the flywheel off removed and tested condenser cleaned the points and didn't know the settings but I left it as it was around 0.012
the coil is cracked like a dried out patatoes and the plug cable was loose
I solder it back on and tested my resistance on both positive and negative to my spark lead and got no resistivity what so ever values were very low at 032 at 20k ohm so I presume my coil is shot.
Hopefully you can shine some light on my dilemma

 

[Lou]

Hi Walter and thanks
Pulled the flywheel off removed and tested condenser cleaned the points and didn't know the settings but I left it as it was around 0.012
the coil is cracked like a dried out patatoes and the plug cable was loose
I solder it back on and tested my resistance on both positive and negative to my spark lead and got no resistivity what so ever values were very low at 032 at 20k ohm so I presume my coil is shot.
Hopefully you can shine some light on my dilemma

Mike Acres will answer many questions you may have: http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...5bfa439ff18fc8c488256aff001e441f?OpenDocument

 

[Rui Ramalho]

Thanks Louis tomorrow morning I'll set the points to spec and check for spar again plenty of good info on the spec sheet
Once more thanks

 

[Rui Ramalho]

Sorry Lou predictive text was on... and fingers are like fat sausages lol

 

[Lou]

Sorry Lou predictive text was on... and fingers are like fat sausages lol

No problem... When my out-law is angry or frustrated with me I hear Louis.