Pioneer chainsaws

[Beavers]

I put these in the 2 man saw thread. Probably a better fit over here. I have a lot of hours into this one. I even cleaned up the internals of the carb with brasso. Hundreds of pics. Here are a few.
All new fasteners. Thanks to jeff do providing the owners manual. I was able to order all new slot head screws at the correct length. Anything that isn't new and zinc plated is either painted or clear coated. View attachment 601995 View attachment 601996 View attachment 601997 View attachment 601994

l can appreciate the man hours and you need passion to complete. Beautiful sweet to look at. Nice Job!

 

[Beavers]

In 2014 I picked up this Pioneer 11-60 with a couple of Homelites I was after. It has sat since then. It looked like someone took an axe to the tank, the bearings were very loose and I almost pitched it. A friend gave me a couple of Holidays (same frame) and one has some issues and became a donor saw for the 11-60.

Not sure why I bothered to fix it up some as I'm guessing it's no hotrod or anything special. Still have to paint the black panel on the clutch cover, kit the carb make a couple of gaskets and install it and fix up the muffler bolts.
The carb primer has been set aside for now and this saw will have a choke.View attachment 603012 View attachment 603013 View attachment 603014 View attachment 603015 View attachment 603016 View attachment 603017 View attachment 603018

My paint prep on the saw was less than stellar. Pictures do lie.

This Pioneer version was sort of a pea soup color when new rather than the traditional yellow. The photo's show the color as it would have been I think but it's somewhat greener than it appears in the pics.
Looking forward to running it soon. New bearings, seals, fuel line, gaskets and the points cleaned up. It has great spark now.

Hey Tim when you replaced the Crank bearings did you have any problems splitting the case on the saw. did it separate fairly easily and on reassembly? Looks Good .

 

[fossil]

Hey Tim when you replaced the Crank bearings did you have any problems splitting the case on the saw. did it separate fairly easily and on reassembly? Looks Good .

Hi Brian,

That series of saws is almost a direct copy of a Homelite XL-12 so it's more like a Homelite than a Pioneer. Some like this one also have an auto oiler. The oiler design is like the one you would see on a 1074 (part of the drive case). Everything came apart easily except the muffler. Pretty easy to work on.

IPL attached so you can see what I mean.

 

[Beavers]

Hi Brian,

That series of saws is almost a direct copy of a Homelite XL-12 so it's more like a Homelite than a Pioneer. Some like this one also have an auto oiler. The oiler design is like the one you would see on a 1074 (part of the drive case). Everything came apart easily except the muffler. Pretty easy to work on.

IPL attached so you can see what I mean.

That's good to hear everything went well. l have not did a total rebuild on one of those 4 digit Saws that required a case split. Maybe someday l will get excited about one. Their are a few of them here in the attic.

 

[Beavers]

Here is pic of current Project Saw, Has 155 psi before the teardown, single piston ring.

 

[fossil]

Here is pic of current Project Saw, Has 155 psi before the teardown, single piston ring.

Looking good!

 

[Beavers]

The Manual says heat the Case Bore to 200-250 degrees F before installing. That kind of heat will burn hands and probably damage new crank seal in the case. Has any one followed this procedure?
l have tested this with heat up to 185 Degree at the bore just to see what happens to seal rubber and texture of rubber and it does not appear to change physicaaly.
l have also tested buy applying enough heat just to the touch but not attempting to assemble onsaw.
l have already frozen the rest of the saw but would like to investigate or hear from the chainsaw Gurus and expierences if anyone would help me.

 

[rocketnorton]

Here is pic of current Project Saw, Has 155 psi before the teardown, single piston ring.

would ya post model #, if its somethin other than fm2 ? have a yellow one here. looks farmsawish, but has western muff. tia.

don't have # on mine handy, but was posted a mo.+ ago here.

 

[rocketnorton]

anyone know what model 494243 might be. is yellow w/grey "farmsaw" rear handle/af box. id guess fm2, but has western [rear exit] muff too.

tia

bump.

 

[Beavers]

l will take Pics of what l got and send shortly

 

[Beavers]

Here are my Qty-3 Farmsaw 11, hope it helps you. ls your label in good condition to see model numbers clearly?

 

[rocketnorton]

thx. found my old post. # is 494243. yours has the western muff, too, so am guessin mine is a farmsaw II. it has the grey, not black, rear handle w/"the farmsaw" decal. that could've been replaced in it's past, tho.

like that cabinet.

 

[Beavers]

Yea the Grey is probably off the Original Orange Farmsaw. its all interchangeable.

 

[fossil]

thx. found my old post. # is 494243. yours has the western muff, too, so am guessin mine is a farmsaw II. it has the grey, not black, rear handle w/"the farmsaw" decal. that could've been replaced in it's past, tho.

like that cabinet.

A friend that restores Pioneers has picked up a number of Farmsaws with western mufflers. Likely a inventory depletion near the end.

The Manual says heat the Case Bore to 200-250 degrees F before installing. That kind of heat will burn hands and probably damage new crank seal in the case. Has any one followed this procedure?
l have tested this with heat up to 185 Degree at the bore just to see what happens to seal rubber and texture of rubber and it does not appear to change physicaaly.
l have also tested buy applying enough heat just to the touch but not attempting to assemble onsaw.
l have already frozen the rest of the saw but would like to investigate or hear from the chainsaw Gurus and expierences if anyone would help me.

I doubt a short duration of that heat will hurt the paint but who knows. I've had the Beauti Tone paint that high in an oven and it didn't seem to hurt it but I don't want to be the guy that was known for messing up your paint job.

The max operating temp for nitrile seals is 250F so you should be OK there. I think I would stay around 200F to be safe

I suspect that instruction may be to compensate for shops not having a press to put the bearings in.

 

[Beavers]

l had success and completed the assy attaching the Fan housing to crankcase Pioneer 600. l froze the crankcase and shaft in freezer for a couple days with the PTO bearing on crank shaft. With the new seal in Fan housing and no heat ,the fan housing slipped in placed and l torques the Qty-4 nuts to 70 inch lbs.
Tim the max temp for the nitrile seals you provided is very good info because it might be requried to heat if installing the Fan Housing ,seal and bearing as a unit, which probably the Service manual is referring to for the 600 series saws. l would still freeze the Crankcase and shaft.
The Bearings drop nicely into the pockets with very little heat though , which l found out. unlike the P-series saws from my expierence.
No press is needed here in either case.

 

[rocketnorton]

best lookin pioneer ever, imo.

 

[Beavers]

Pic of installing a new Piston pin needle bearing on my 600 today.

 

[fossil]

Pic of installing a new Piston pin needle bearing on my 600 today.

Pioneer tool?

 

[Beavers]

lt has been in my tool arsenault for some time. Their is no pioneer part numbers on it. its a go to favorite of mine.

 

[fossil]

It's a pretty slick tool.