Pioneer chainsaws

[White_Fang]

Lou:
Thanks for advice, it's good to know, I am always careful when I adjust carburetor, at least from when I started doing it myself (not so long ago), but mostly I adjust idle screw on the chainsaw, other screws I put on factory settings, because the chainsaws are old, and not modified, or I take it to the official chainsaw repairing service.

PogoInTheWoods:
Thanks for advice, you were right there was some oil, probably leaked or spilled by me when I was filling the oil tank. As for the boiled fuel mix, there is possibility that was issue, but I don't know neither what caused it because, as you said the 'saw wasn't that much warm, I think I saw on some other post that same problem and if I recon well it was problem with fuel vent system. Also, when I started the 'saw next time, with the L screw on "sweet spot" as you called it, it was idling, and working without any problem, I was surprised, but that wasn't the end of my surprise.

Beavers:
Thanks for advice, I'm sure that carburetor came with chainsaw from factory, and it's Tillotson. On it there are numbers 15 006, at least that's what I read on it. I didn't changed anything yet on it, because I found recently on the internet that, I can order new carb kit (as recomended on Mr Mike Acres's site) directly from Ireland or Italy, but because of this bad situation with Corona Virus, they not ship it outside of the country or outside EU, so I'll wait until this situation ends. I don't know why the L screw on this chainsaw (1 full turn out) is giving best working condition of the saw. Also on some pictures I posted earlier in this thread you can see only 2 screws the lower is the L (and is marked on the hub of the saw, and higher is I presume LA/T screw a.k.a. idle screw but it isn't marked at all, and it's screwed all the way in).

As I said already I succeed to start Pioneer P26 'saw again, and I was surprised when it started to idle and work good, a minute or so. I shut it off, and started it again, first pull, what a surprise, but that wasn't the end of it. I left it to idle a little more, until I feed my dog, but when I turned my back on it, it started to speed up like it was without fuel (it wasn't). And before I got to it, it shut off. I have left it to cool a little and then pulled of the muffler, I saw a little lines on cylinder but not on the piston, I decided to open the cylinder (take it off). It seems that cylinder is damaged, piston and ring not that much, I assume that was from air leak somewhere in crankcase, but I'm not sure? I'm not sure what I'm going to do now.

 

[rupedoggy]

Anyone on here up for a 2000 Homie? I just got it at a barn sale and it is totally unchecked. Missing muffler but otherwise there. No bar/chain. I will entertain offers. Big saw! 7CI

 

[rupedoggy]

I am an old guy that slipped a cog. You don't put Homies on a pioneer forum stupid. So here is a pioneer I got today and it is kinda rare. I say that because I have never seen one, and I have seen a lot of saws. Anybody want to collect this? How much is it? Maybe $100?

 

[Turd Furgeson]

Are there any tricks to getting the rubber av mounts off a p series saw without destroying them?

 

[rupedoggy]

Yes a special tool. Make one by grinding a socket that will just fit over the rubber but two ears to catch on the bottom metal. Mike

 

[Lou]

Yes, a special tool. Make one by grinding a socket that will just fit over the rubber but two ears to catch on the bottom metal. Mike

Just thinking about alternatives, I hate to ruin a tool.
Could a piece of PVC or galvanized pipe do that job too? Two holes through the opposite end would allow a rod of some kind to be put through for additional leverage.
Lou

 

[rupedoggy]

Ruin a socket? They are 25 cents at the second hand store here. Get a deep socket

 

[Turd Furgeson]

I got them off with a bit of heat from the heat gun on the metal and using a rag for some extra grip on the mounts. The rubber separated from the male end of the mount on a few of the mounts on another saw I was working on and I used a cutoff wheel on a dremel to cut a slot in, and then I just turned them out with a screwdriver.

 

[ML12]

Picked up a couple nice old IELs a couple weeks ago. Both are seized, but I've had the mufflers off and it just looks like the rings are rusted to the bores. Neither shows any sign of scuffing on the piston. They were wall hangers at someone's cabin and don't seem to have had hard lives, no broken or cracked castings, no severe wear on the clutches either. IEL RA and HA/HB.











by far the coolest thing about the HA/HB is that the carburetor/fuel tank/rear handle swivels. I'm a little worried about what is hiding under the epoxy on the fuel tank/fuel filter, but i'm sure I can fix it.

Both are destined for full restorations, but I've been really busy this summer so they will wait until winter.

 

[Beavers]

The angled brace on rear mount and fairbank morse str assy were big improvements over the HA models. Nice find!

 

[rocketnorton]

nice to see footpeg n clamps on ra.
parts here, if ya need anything.

 

[Turd Furgeson]

Is a P60 crankcase the same as a Pioneer Pro 655 crankcase? Both sides? One side?

 

[Beavers]

The Crankcases are the same. both sides as far as l know.

 

[Turd Furgeson]

I did some more digging after I posted the question. The part numbers are different for both the crankcases and the bearings. I also found a post saying the later saws had larger bearings added for better durability. So maybe the bearing bore is different between the older and newer saws....

 

[xl130]

Im trying to get the flywheel off my Farmsaw. Using a a good puller, soaked in fluid for a day and heated and “tapped” the center of the puller.This thing isn’t coming off.I’ve never had this much problem getting a flywheel off. Am I missing something particular on a Farmsaw?

Is there something else holding these things on other than the flywheel nut on the crankshaft?

 

[Beavers]

Their is nothing different about these flywheels. l have had some bad ones to. This method has worked for me. First install your F/W puller and tighten down as much as you can.sometimes l will use a impact air gun to do this but may not be neccesary for you. Applie your heat only to one side of the flywheel hub, Strike the F/W puller on outer corner. it should pop off .

 

[xl130]

Their is nothing different about these flywheels. l have had some bad ones to. This method has worked for me. First install your F/W puller and tighten down as much as you can.sometimes l will use a impact air gun to do this but may not be neccesary for you. Applie your heat only to one side of the flywheel hub, Strike the F/W puller on outer corner. it should pop off .

Wow! That was not for the light at heart!!

Your method worked perfect but dang that was ugly!

I think I may need a new puller and a flywheel....

Thanks for the advice. Got the job done!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Awesome. Just like opening a stubborn jar of pickles!

 

[Svlmustang]

very happy to find these from an old saw shop. P52 and p65 p n c kit with boost ports and a nos case that I can use on my p52. I wonder if the 655 poulan pro p n c will fit on a pioneer partner p52 ?

 

[Svlmustang]

very happy to find these from an old saw shop. P52 and p65 p n c kit with boost ports and a nos case that I can use on my p52. I wonder if the 655 poulan pro p n c will fit on a pioneer partner p52 ?

not sure why it posted double pictures