Pioneer chainsaws

[P62]

Brake works as it should

 

[fxer]

Jeff My farmsaws have covers with slight indentations roughly 1.5x2 inches near the front by locking bolt They are not decals but a thin sheet of plastic inserted in the indentations. Three are the same, pioneer tree and word pioneer underneath with three squarish shapes on either side of tree .These shapes are red,reddish orange and orange. The rest is black and silver. One is a black and silver tree withe pioneer name and no squarrish shapes on either side.The last one has a green and silver tree with black pioneer and reddish squares. It is not very clear. Three of the exhausts come sideways, one faces rear and one faces to the front. All are of short pipes 5\8 to 3\4 in in diameter. Two saws have brakes, one is very soft and the other is so so. Maybe the set up on yours is a factory up date to make the brake have more pressure to lock up. There is plenty of room on mine to put a longer bolt and the spring like you have. Allan

 

[rupedoggy]

Hey fxer do you know how to set your camera on macro?

 

[fxer]

I am not computer literate. I will not put any more photo,s up.Sorry to bother you.

 

[P62]

Alan
Your Pioneer saws are the early orange model. The one I posted is a late model FM from around 1980. On the IPL for the FM they show a different top cover and decal for the Western models. Muffler should be the smaller diameter opening and pointing down, similar to a P41 only a shorter exhaust pipe. The 3/4 forward in likely from a larger P series. All will fit. I have seen quite a few Farmsaws with the rear discharge exhaust. I do not see any purpose with that spring set up, I was surprised to see a second saw the same and from another part of Ontario

 

[p61 western]

I am not computer literate. I will not put any more photo,s up.Sorry to bother you.

Don't worry about it. Some pictures are far better than none. Keep posting the pictures.

 

[LoveChainsaws]

Good afternoon guys. I'll try to post some pics tonight when I get home but until then wanted to pick the Pioneer guru's brains. I picked up a 3270SC off the bay about year and a half ago and just got around to working on it. It was a Buy It Now and advertised as a parts saw but for the price I couldn't pass it up. When I received it the piston was not stuck but only offered limited movement and wouldn't make a full revolution. After disassembling I see why. It seems the roller cage bearing for where the connecting rod attaches to the crankshaft failed and exploded parts internally. Most damage around 2 cylinder ports opposite the exhaust port. Rings were free on exhaust side but had gotten pinched and broken with a large gauge in the piston on the intake side. Surprisingly the cylinder bore looks good overall despite the 2 small areas. I have located a NOS roller cage bearing for a 2400 and it's on the way. Also located a NOS piston for a 2400 and it's on the way. So my questions.

1) I plan to use a dremel and fine sandpaper wheel to clear off any raised edges around the cylinder damage area. I think minimum material needs removed to smooth it up. The pics I post later will better help show this. I have never done this on a cylinder so any advice will be great and any better ideas for smoothing it up?
2) With broken rings what's the best way to properly measure? 471736 is Pioneer part # but I'm not locating any so I planned to order Caber rings from the Greek but want to be certain I get the correct size. Would anyone have an intact super 3270 ring squirreled away they'd be willing to measure? Or know the exact measurements?

Only pic I have at moment of 3270SC. Thanks in advance for your time gentleman. Had CAD since 9/2016 after fixing six saws for my dad and brother's wife's pappaw. Homelite E-Z 250, 150, XL-2. Poulan 4200. Pioneer P-26. and Husqvarna 50 Rancher. Those 6 saws got me hooked. Up to 85 runners at the moment and have 14-15 in line next. Absolutely love this forum and the wealth of knowledge and willingness to help. Thanks for sharing your expertise and experiences.

 

[Lou]

@ LoveChainsaws;​

When Poulan (under Weed Eater) engulfed Pioneer they took all Pioneer part numbers and prefaced them with 507.
Your Pioneer part number "471736" became part number "507471736".
No guarantees you'll find the ring set you want but Google lists 507471736 as a 3270/3200 Pioneer ring set.
Good Luck
Lou

 

[LoveChainsaws]

@ LoveChainsaws;​

When Poulan (under Weed Eater) engulfed Pioneer they took all Pioneer part numbers and prefaced them with 507.
Your Pioneer part number "471736" became part number "507471736".
No guarantees you'll find the ring set you want but Google lists 507471736 as a 3270/3200 Pioneer ring set.
Good Luck
Lou

That's great, gives me another number to search for. Thanks so much.

 

[LoveChainsaws]

Here’s some pics of the damage. One thing I didn’t mention was all the broken cage pieces and ring pieces that are now embedded at the crown of the cylinder. Suggestions on freeing and removing are welcome. One thing is for sure, I don’t care if you like chainsaws or not no one can argue how sexy that full wrap handle is!

 

[LoveChainsaws]

 

[Lou]

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...181977c1d290e35088256b000015e0f3?OpenDocument (hidden link to Mike Acres above)
That was quite a saw; it hurts to see it like it is now.
Good luck with a rebuild.
That 507 trick works with all Pioneer parts (pistons, cylinders, cranks, etc).

 

[fxer]

For those who like big pioneer saws[me included] there is on kijiji an add for an iel type hc for sale at wallaceburg on. for 100 bucks. The add number is 1538644869 and it is 10 days old.I don,t know how to download the pictures from kijiji to here. It looks all there and pretty good to me. Too far away for me to travel to get it. Allan

 

[89HD]

Got an aftermarket IEL tag for the RA it really helped the looks of the saw.

 

[ML12]

Here’s some pics of the damage. One thing I didn’t mention was all the broken cage pieces and ring pieces that are now embedded at the crown of the cylinder. Suggestions on freeing and removing are welcome. One thing is for sure, I don’t care if you like chainsaws or not no one can argue how sexy that full wrap handle is!
View attachment 872929

I had a 3200 that had the exact same failure, maybe it was common? My bore had no damage at all, but similar to yours there were a few bits of bearing and lots of impact damage to the underside of the head and top of the piston. I ordered my rings from the greek, just measure the thickness of the ring and the diameter of the bore. I believe the rings are the standard 1/16" thickness. Just order ones that are close/larger than the bore and file them to fit at 0.004" gap per inch of bore.

I pulled/pried most of the mangled metal out of the head with long reach pliers and a screwdriver/pick, then made up a mandrel and glued some sandpaper to the top and flattened out the remaining damage that way. Piston I replaced. I seem to recall that a lot of the parts, bearings/clutch shoes etc were used on a bunch of their saws.

They're fine saws once you get them running. Mine pulls a 28" very easily.

 

[89HD]

I had a 3200 that had the exact same failure, maybe it was common? My bore had no damage at all, but similar to yours there were a few bits of bearing and lots of impact damage to the underside of the head and top of the piston. I ordered my rings from the greek, just measure the thickness of the ring and the diameter of the bore. I believe the rings are the standard 1/16" thickness. Just order ones that are close/larger than the bore and file them to fit at 0.004" gap per inch of bore.

I pulled/pried most of the mangled metal out of the head with long reach pliers and a screwdriver/pick, then made up a mandrel and glued some sandpaper to the top and flattened out the remaining damage that way. Piston I replaced. I seem to recall that a lot of the parts, bearings/clutch shoes etc were used on a bunch of their saws.

They're fine saws once you get them running. Mine pulls a 28" very easily.

View attachment 873049

View attachment 873050

View attachment 873051

The 3200 series is one I would like to add, nice saw

 

[LoveChainsaws]

I had a 3200 that had the exact same failure, maybe it was common? My bore had no damage at all, but similar to yours there were a few bits of bearing and lots of impact damage to the underside of the head and top of the piston. I ordered my rings from the greek, just measure the thickness of the ring and the diameter of the bore. I believe the rings are the standard 1/16" thickness. Just order ones that are close/larger than the bore and file them to fit at 0.004" gap per inch of bore.

I pulled/pried most of the mangled metal out of the head with long reach pliers and a screwdriver/pick, then made up a mandrel and glued some sandpaper to the top and flattened out the remaining damage that way. Piston I replaced. I seem to recall that a lot of the parts, bearings/clutch shoes etc were used on a bunch of their saws.

They're fine saws once you get them running. Mine pulls a 28" very easily.

View attachment 873049

View attachment 873050

View attachment 873051

Wow, that's a great looking 3200! Good to know another saw of the same series experienced the same failure and was able to be brought back to life. 1/16 inch thickness is what I measured and ordered last night for a 2" bore. (2.01 x 0.063 in) Thanks for the tip on ring gap, been thinking about that. I used a dremel spinning pretty slow and several different shaped stones as well as screwdriver and pick and it's pretty clean now. Still a little rough to my fingertip at a few spots so I'll try your sandpaper/mandrel tip to finish smoothing it out. I've got a Windsor Hard Nose from that era in the correct mount in 24" and I plan to run full comp 3/8 .050g. I sure wish my air filter cover looked as nice as your's!

 

[ML12]

Wow, that's a great looking 3200! Good to know another saw of the same series experienced the same failure and was able to be brought back to life. 1/16 inch thickness is what I measured and ordered last night for a 2" bore. (2.01 x 0.063 in) Thanks for the tip on ring gap, been thinking about that. I used a dremel spinning pretty slow and several different shaped stones as well as screwdriver and pick and it's pretty clean now. Still a little rough to my fingertip at a few spots so I'll try your sandpaper/mandrel tip to finish smoothing it out. I've got a Windsor Hard Nose from that era in the correct mount in 24" and I plan to run full comp 3/8 .050g. I sure wish my air filter cover looked as nice as your's!

At least yours still has the spark plug cover. The only other 2 I've ever seen with my own eyes had that missing. You also have the choke carburetor. Mine has the primer and some very complicated plumbing, not to mention the weird air valve thing on the intake.

The sandpaper mandrel trick also works for (very slowly) cutting the squish band if you are messing with porting or modification.

 

[LoveChainsaws]

At least yours still has the spark plug cover. The only other 2 I've ever seen with my own eyes had that missing. You also have the choke carburetor. Mine has the primer and some very complicated plumbing, not to mention the weird air valve thing on the intake.

The sandpaper mandrel trick also works for (very slowly) cutting the squish band if you are messing with porting or modification.

I've seen a lot that were missing the spark plug cover as well, seems that got lost often. I like how the 3200 spark plug cover is green. I have a 14-20 that has the primer and I too converted it to use a bubble style primer as the original diaphragm was toast. I never quite figured out the air valve thing either. I adjusted it every which way and still could not get a consistent idle. I ended up leaving it adjusted for initial operation as the service manual suggests, I think Pioneerguy600 had posted those instructions. Then I drilled and tapped an access hole in the back of the carb box so the machine screw end rests on the throttle rod and I have an idle adjustment. I know redneckery but hey it works.

 

[ML12]

I've seen a lot that were missing the spark plug cover as well, seems that got lost often. I like how the 3200 spark plug cover is green. I have a 14-20 that has the primer and I too converted it to use a bubble style primer as the original diaphragm was toast. I never quite figured out the air valve thing either. I adjusted it every which way and still could not get a consistent idle. I ended up leaving it adjusted for initial operation as the service manual suggests, I think Pioneerguy600 had posted those instructions. Then I drilled and tapped an access hole in the back of the carb box so the machine screw end rests on the throttle rod and I have an idle adjustment. I know redneckery but hey it works.

I also converted mine to a bubble style primer. seems to work ok. I believe you need minimum 2 sets of hands to adjust the air valve while the saw is running..... its a nice design feature. I have no idea what mine is set at, but I do know that it idles nicely.