Pioneer P26 clutch melt?

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Well Thanks to all.

I am sure lots of saws were lost before the internet came along

I guess this must be a familliar story...I went to get parts and came home with a saw that was too good to part out..so then I went to get parts for that saw and I....


I remember a large green container about 12' long 7' wide and 6' high nearly half filled with P series saws being sent off for scrap, approx 200 .


The parts saw thing is the biggest builder excuse of any collection, it never ends.
Pioneerguy600
 
Best to get a new bar

On thinking more on it last night....I think we used to add the plates when using that style bar tail.....it seemed to help the plugging.

The other thing which I am not sure of but think is we used to change out those clutches with a three shoe from the larger saws because those clutches wore out pretty quickly and slipped though I do not remember ever seeing one go full circle like yours.

I am sure I will be corrected if I am wrong but I think I used Farmsaw clutches.

Does your drum turn separate from the clutch shoes?

If not you melted the clutch bearing and that is what is smeared around the shoes.
 
Can you describe the "plates" a bit I am confused on what they actually are

The clutch and shoes spin as a solid unit

The 2 shoes are even gouged on the outside edge from the metal ring meltdown
 
I'll get some later and post a picture.

If your bar lets the chain rock side to side much at all get a new bar without the oil slot as it is fairly inexpensive and it will eliminate the need for plates.
 
PES+, there was a 3-shoe clutch made a little later on for the P28.

Morgan, that part #430411 is the optional bucking spike. It goes on after the clutch cover and works quite nicely. It prevents the bar nuts from gouging the clutch cover, too.

Bar plates (or guides) go over the studs the same way as the bar does. One goes on either side of the bar. They help to keep the chain from derailing as it slides onto the bar from the sprocket.
 

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