Please advise on Stihl “Frankensaw”

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I don't have the equipment to test it myself, I understand you need the correct adapters for the carburetor.

Well yes and no- you need some tyre tubing, some silicone tube that fits the vacuum impulse nipple out of the cylinder/case joint and a gauge to measure the air you suck out or blow in- it can be that simple.
Or you can buy a Mityvac 8500 kit and still block the inlet and outlet of the cylinder with rubber sheet material behind the muffler and the carb.
But you do not NEED the correct adaptors- they are nice to have- but not an absolute need.

 

[Ocala]

Yes the wrist pin bearing is included.

Seriously at this point my plan was to replace all the bearings. I’m thinking I could make it like a “new saw”.

That’s really the reason I was asking about the NOS 044 case…

I figured at this point there wouldn’t be much left…

I’ve been told thst pressing the two halves together to put in the new crank and bearings is difficult to do without “messing something up”.

Is this true? I would take it to a Stihl shop to have the bearings pressed in anyway.

Do you have any thoughts on that one?

That way, I’d have a saw left over anyway.

 

[Yukon Stihl]

My guess is with the sticker on the front of the case that it is a low use saw.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

My guess is with the sticker on the front of the case that it is a low use saw.

Only if you are guessing off of the MS260 photo that somehow made it into the mix.

 

[Ocala]

Only if you are guessing off of the MS260 photo that somehow made it into the mix.

Lol yes that one was in there by mistake! I got that saw from my uncle who passed away a few years ago.

It was his favorite saw, and I use it very carefully.

 

[Ocala]

I started to take down the 440 tonight. I’m actually thinking the cylinder MIGHT be OEM. I’ll know better when I can remove it.

I know I need a long T drive, not sure what size… anyone know?

 

[Dennis Gauge]

What kind of Stihl dealer doesn't have the correct carb adapter for an MS440/044?

 

[Ocala]

Here’s some pictures of the piston and cylinder

 

[Bubster]

I started to take down the 440 tonight. I’m actually thinking the cylinder MIGHT be OEM. I’ll know better when I can remove it.

I know I need a long T drive, not sure what size… anyone know?

T-27

 

[Ocala]

T-27

Great thank you

 

[Bubster]

I started to take down the 440 tonight. I’m actually thinking the cylinder MIGHT be OEM. I’ll know better when I can remove it.

I know I need a long T drive, not sure what size… anyone know?

Should have Mahle stamped on it if factory.

 

[Yukon Stihl]

yup that's the one,couldn't wait for it to load for a better look.

Only if you are guessing off of the MS260 photo that somehow made it into the mix

 

[Mad Professor]

Should have Mahle stamped on it if factory.

I can see 1128 cast into the cylinder in two of the flywheel side pictures. Not all Stihl cylinders are Mahle.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Yes the wrist pin bearing is included.

Seriously at this point my plan was to replace all the bearings. I’m thinking I could make it like a “new saw”.

That’s really the reason I was asking about the NOS 044 case…

I figured at this point there wouldn’t be much left…

I’ve been told thst pressing the two halves together to put in the new crank and bearings is difficult to do without “messing something up”.

Is this true? I would take it to a Stihl shop to have the bearings pressed in anyway.

Do you have any thoughts on that one?

That way, I’d have a saw left over anyway.

It is possible to split the cases, fit bearings and reassemble without specialised tooling- bit like pressure testing. the purpose made tooling is nice to have- but a bit ridiculous to buy for a one saw project.
Heat from a hot air gun and a rubber mallet can work wonders, brass hammers are handy, so are small ovens or wood stoves and household freezers- there is always a work around.
All kinds of methods of case splitting and reassembly will have been discussed within this forum and should be searchable.
Unlike the Orange saw competition though, Stihl use a specialised proprietary crank bearing only available through them (for one worth having) and can be fairly pricey. You need to pay attention to how and where these bearings sit in relationship to the case- their seated depth is about the only real "catch" with case building, easing of bearing side load needs to be understood- and the fitting of oil seals nice and square- but all is doable with basic workshop tooling.

 

[irhunter]

Talk of replacing bearings, like the buying of parts, seems premature. He doesn't even have the cylinder off.

 

[Ocala]

It is possible to split the cases, fit bearings and reassemble without specialised tooling- bit like pressure testing. the purpose made tooling is nice to have- but a bit ridiculous to buy for a one saw project.
Heat from a hot air gun and a rubber mallet can work wonders, brass hammers are handy, so are small ovens or wood stoves and household freezers- there is always a work around.
All kinds of methods of case splitting and reassembly will have been discussed within this forum and should be searchable.
Unlike the Orange saw competition though, Stihl use a specialised proprietary crank bearing only available through them (for one worth having) and can be fairly pricey. You need to pay attention to how and where these bearings sit in relationship to the case- their seated depth is about the only real "catch" with case building, easing of bearing side load needs to be understood- and the fitting of oil seals nice and square- but all is doable with basic workshop tooling.

Thank you for taking the time to give me such a detailed answer to my question about the case. To quote Clint Eastwood... "A Man's got to know his limitations!" I understand just enough about everything you've just said to know I probably don't want to go that route haha.

 

[Ocala]

Talk of replacing bearings, like the buying of parts, seems premature. He doesn't even have the cylinder off.

That's true. The only reason I was asking was because I had a chance to get a NOS case minus crank and rod for what I thought was a good price, so I figured if I had it all apart and it wasn't too difficult I could swap for the new case and have a mostly new saw. Now I understand that putting a case together isn't so easy.

Anyway, I'll have the cylinder off tonight assuming I can find a long T27 wrench today.

I guess the question I should really be asking is how to evaluate the condition of the bearings when I do have it apart.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Talk of replacing bearings, like the buying of parts, seems premature. He doesn't even have the cylinder off.

Was not so much a "this is how you do it" as a "this can be done without huge cost " post about splitting cases.
Nowhere did I actually explain exactly how to take the cases apart without spending more than the saw is worth on case splitting tools- that might come if and when needed.
If you go back a couple of more posts you will see the OP suggesting he wanted to go back to the bare bones and replace bearings to make a basically new (and costly) saw to complete the new OEM cylinder and piston kit that has been ordered.

 

[Ocala]

Here’s the pics, it is a Stihl cylinder, not sure about the piston but I don’t think it’s a Stihl.

 

[Mad Professor]

Cylinder does not look too bad. One picture has something below the ex port, may be reflection or the picture/

Piston looks like some sort of debris embedded on intake side. Try to figure out if that came in the intake port, or it's metal from the bottom end. What does ex side of piston look like?

That may be OEM piston? Is it stamped on top A, B, or A/B?