+1 on that.
Please diagnose this for me
- Thread starter jwp
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After I got through cutting the trees, I looked as some of the links that you posted. I have been using the normal face cut but I did make a mistake on one cut and my back cut ended up below the notch cut. From now on I will try to make the cuts more precise. Also it looked like some of the information wanted the face cut to only go into the tree about 30 to 40% of its diameter. In the past I have gone about 70% in on the face cut. I was doing this because I was thinking that on a perfectly balanced tree, that a 70% cut would shift the center of gravity of the tree toward or over the face cut and the tree would want to go in that direction when the back cut was made. Maybe someone can clear this up for me.
I have been cutting trees for about 25 years with no training at all. It sure is nice to have you guys teach me some safety techniques. Most of the trees that I cut are small 12" or less and this is probably why I have not been seriously injured.
I know that you guys know about cutting blow downs and what the stumps can do. I was also aware of this and as I was cutting firewood off of a blow down I was being very watchful about the stump snapping back up as the load was released by cutting the sections off the trunk. Well when I was about 8 feet from the base of the tree, I cut a section off and sat the saw down. I heard a crack and the stump went back vertical like a rubber band snapping. A cloud of dust came out from around the stump. That was what I consider to be a close call.
I have been cutting trees for about 25 years with no training at all. It sure is nice to have you guys teach me some safety techniques. Most of the trees that I cut are small 12" or less and this is probably why I have not been seriously injured.
I know that you guys know about cutting blow downs and what the stumps can do. I was also aware of this and as I was cutting firewood off of a blow down I was being very watchful about the stump snapping back up as the load was released by cutting the sections off the trunk. Well when I was about 8 feet from the base of the tree, I cut a section off and sat the saw down. I heard a crack and the stump went back vertical like a rubber band snapping. A cloud of dust came out from around the stump. That was what I consider to be a close call.
Depth of face- lot depends on the type of wood, time of year, rot, etc.
Where a 70% face depth is something to reconsider is the surprise gust of wind that slams that top hard. The wrong way.
Hinge thickness and integrity (clean grain) and wedging early speak volumes about control.
I will say one thing that alot will disagree with. Back boring from the hinge to the release strap maybe appealing to some and in some situations (heavy head lean and bad heart) may be considered. However, consider the back bore on centered stem. Face cut is good. No dutchman, hiinge is right thickness. Backbore goes well, leaving the release strap at the back.
But, the hinge has squirely grain or otherwise weak. Gust of wind slams hard from face to back; hinge cracks, and stem goes over backwards. Oops.
Wedges.
Where a 70% face depth is something to reconsider is the surprise gust of wind that slams that top hard. The wrong way.
Hinge thickness and integrity (clean grain) and wedging early speak volumes about control.
I will say one thing that alot will disagree with. Back boring from the hinge to the release strap maybe appealing to some and in some situations (heavy head lean and bad heart) may be considered. However, consider the back bore on centered stem. Face cut is good. No dutchman, hiinge is right thickness. Backbore goes well, leaving the release strap at the back.
But, the hinge has squirely grain or otherwise weak. Gust of wind slams hard from face to back; hinge cracks, and stem goes over backwards. Oops.
Wedges.
Again you have some good points especially about wind and what can happen. I am going to rethink my 70% face cut. This much cut really does not leave enough room for using a wedge. I hardly ever use a wedge but one of the last trees that I cut needed to be wedged and it was really a tight situation.
I read BobL's post about keeping the tooth to ranker angle constant at around 6 degrees and I liked his logic. His explanation of what angle is needed and how the rakers dig into the wood takes some of mystery out of how a chain cuts. After reading his article I felt brave enough to take a file o plate that was not designed for my particular chain and file the racks a little more. Now that I have all the angles correct the chain will probably cut even better.
I read BobL's post about keeping the tooth to ranker angle constant at around 6 degrees and I liked his logic. His explanation of what angle is needed and how the rakers dig into the wood takes some of mystery out of how a chain cuts. After reading his article I felt brave enough to take a file o plate that was not designed for my particular chain and file the racks a little more. Now that I have all the angles correct the chain will probably cut even better.
I just finished making a few more cuts just to run the fuel out of the saw until I get ready to cut up the red oaks. The saw was cutting great. It is still not exactly self feeding but with just the slightest amount of pressure it starts digging out the wood. Also the cuts are straight and not curved so all is good.
There are some really sharp members here that have great posts on Sharpening and Geometry. BobL's are classics. GTG's are just invaluable to learning new stuff, if there's any near you.
Good to hear the saw is cutting better.
Good to hear the saw is cutting better.
