please help...flywheel nut just spins and wont come off

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abby4000

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Guys I have an old 361 that was blown up. I am going to rebuild myself over the winter time. Last night went to take flywheel off. Used the rope in spark plug hole trick.Got the nut loose but now it wont come off of the shaft. Also i can spin the nut left or right as much as I want and it will not tighten or come off shaft. Something seems quite wrong. Any ideas??
I will get some pics of it tonight.

Thanks in advance
 
Sounds like the threads are stripped.. Youll have to cut it off and the crank is probably bad also......
 
If you can, set one or 2 flat blade screwdrivers underneath the nut and wedge up on the nut while loosening it. If that doesn't work, break out the dremel tool and grind through the nut.
 
Did you turn it the right way, flywheel nut is right hand thread, turn counterclockwise to get off, the clutch is left hand, turn clockwise to get off. Now that it's stripped use a dremel to grind off and if your lucky most of damage is done to the nut. If the crank threads are shot you might get by with rethreading a little smaller, I'd take it to a machine shop to find out. Steve
 
Did you turn it the right way, flywheel nut is right hand thread, turn counterclockwise to get off, the clutch is left hand, turn clockwise to get off. Now that it's stripped use a dremel to grind off and if your lucky most of damage is done to the nut. If the crank threads are shot you might get by with rethreading a little smaller, I'd take it to a machine shop to find out. Steve

10 4 on what he just said nothing else to do there.
 
Even if you stripped the threads on the flywheel badly, you may be able to restore it with a thread restorer file. That nut does less of the holding than the tapered shaft does. A new nut, a washer, and some Loctite might just save you the expense and indignity of a new crank.
 
That's strange

Ted,
I just did an 056 series with the same problem, but the nut was soft (by Stihl design/selection) and the crank was harder than a wedding d#ck.
It was extremely taxing to work down inside the small threaded puller opening with a Dremel & a pointed carbide bit, but little by little I worked both sides until I could crack/split it off with a small tipped tapered chisel. The crank threads & flywheel nut surface had no marks at all, but I nicked the puller threads a couple of times.
 
Ted,
I just did an 056 series with the same problem, but the nut was soft (by Stihl design/selection) and the crank was harder than a wedding d#ck.
It was extremely taxing to work down inside the small threaded puller opening with a Dremel & a pointed carbide bit, but little by little I worked both sides until I could crack/split it off with a small tipped tapered chisel. The crank threads & flywheel nut surface had no marks at all, but I nicked the puller threads a couple of times.

Yes??
 
All the saw cranks I've ever worked on were much harder than any fastener.

Try this trick- Take the saw body and lay it on its side, flywheel up. Lock vise grips on the nut. Hold the vise grips and lift the mess up so the nut is supporting the weight of the saw body, and then slowly spin the saw body clockwise. I've gotten a few stripped flywheel nuts off that way.
 
Guys I have an old 361 that was blown up. I am going to rebuild myself over the winter time. Last night went to take flywheel off. Used the rope in spark plug hole trick.Got the nut loose but now it wont come off of the shaft. Also i can spin the nut left or right as much as I want and it will not tighten or come off shaft. Something seems quite wrong. Any ideas??
I will get some pics of it tonight.

Thanks in advance

I wonder how that works. Sorry, but that was funny. Hope everything works out for you.
 
One method that has worked in this situation is to drill (sharp bit, carefully) most of the way through the nut with a bit just smaller than the thickness of a side of the nut and then using a tapered punch as a wedge to split the nut. This can be done without damaging whatever is left of the thread on the crank.
 
If the treads are a little buggered and you don't have a tap buy a set of jewelers files the tiny triangular files are just the ticket to clean up the treads.
 
A thread file is much easier than trying to clean threads up with a file. Split dies used for lug nuts work well. They make dies for cleaning up galled threads as well as dedicated files for thread restoration. Patience is the name of the game.
Using a pry under the nut and an air gun will remove most stripped fasteners.
 
One method that has worked in this situation is to drill (sharp bit, carefully) most of the way through the nut with a bit just smaller than the thickness of a side of the nut and then using a tapered punch as a wedge to split the nut. This can be done without damaging whatever is left of the thread on the crank.

Good trick! I've used nut crackers before, but this is a faster and easier way. I'll remember it for sure!
 
One method that has worked in this situation is to drill (sharp bit, carefully) most of the way through the nut with a bit just smaller than the thickness of a side of the nut and then using a tapered punch as a wedge to split the nut. This can be done without damaging whatever is left of the thread on the crank.

I like the sound of that,I can't picture how you mean though(its me,I know:) )Is the punch thicker than the drilled hole?I can't picture when you say use as a wedge... Scuse my dumb moment!
 

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