Please help me pick a good pole saw (non powered) 24ft

Wesspur
Rugged made
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Poleman said:
Just be carful not to get the blade in the coated lines....you'll know because there will be a spark and it will melt the teeth on the blade. The wort part it open the 120 line to the elements(yes just a pin hole) and it gets the white death of aluminum corrosion taking place........nothing happens right away but down the road it an cause problems.

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I do everything I can so I don't hit the lines or draw against them. We do have older services where the shielding is breaking off. Unless the branches are dripping wet it would be a really rare occurrence to get any arc from a branch laying on a house service.

If for some reason I would lose control of the pole I would just let it go. No way would I hold on to see what may or may not happen.

It is a very valid concern still working around those lines. Care must be taken at all times for sure.


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It's always best to not make contact but things do happen.....ot would be a rare instance to get injured from contact but the potential is there. I worry more about damaging the mast by letting limbs bang the line rather than shock. Some masts are outdated and would need upgraded if damaged....really $$$

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I agree with that.A branch can come down and pull a rotten service mount hanger and then the whole service drops off and the homeowner then has to pay an electrician to put it back up. But it has to meet current code which is not easy. Thankfully we have never had an issue with pullin one off a home........yet.


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The good thing about this video, you can slide the bar at the bottom and get through it quick. Let me know if you think a good pole will be worth it. When I get the maple trimmed back to clear the line, I can drop it at the trunk with a chainsaw. I have all the maple hanging over the garage that needs to come down and it will take at least 24 ft.

 
I really like pole saws and power pruners. They let me 'simplify a problem' by removing large limbs, etc. first. They give me good horizontal reach dealing with storm damaged trees. You can find lots of uses for them besides pruning.

But they come with their own set of hazards, including working overhead, power lines, etc.

If possible, take larger branches down in sections, instead of one piece - a large branch falling can bounce, or surprise you in other ways.

Philbert
 
Yes a good pole will be worth it. Everytime your pole flexes you are losing cutting power as your energy is absorbed in the pole bouncing. Plus a quality saw will cut twice as fast as you are now.

Pro pole will be much faster, stiffer and safer as you it won't bend and bounce on you so much. Quality always pays and you can sell it for more down the road after you are done with it.

Also a bailout is a must when you are that high up in a tree especially cutting larger pieces as you WILL get it stuck at some point with it binding up in a cut. Then you are screwed big time, unless you have a throw line you then can throw a line over the brand you are pinched on and pull the offended piece another direction to free the pole saw up.

Sometimes on larger cuts I will v cut the top to avoid getting pinched. Also a pro level pole saw will have a blade that while on the ground looks very agrees side on the curve when you are in the cut way up it will allow you to cut more across the top of the branch minimizing your chance of getting bound up.


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My electric company will come disconnect the power to my house for free anytime I need to trim near the lines. I'm a jack of all trades but working around live wires is for the pros. Its stupid to do if they will come disconnect it for you at no cost. Why risk it? You can have it disconnected and then rock whatever pole saw you want without worrying about frying yourself.
 
Babaganoosh said:
My electric company will come disconnect the power to my house for free anytime I need to trim near the lines. I'm a jack of all trades but working around live wires is for the pros. Its stupid to do if they will come disconnect it for you at no cost. Why risk it? You can have it disconnected and then rock whatever pole saw you want without worrying about frying yourself.
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It's not my electric line. Mine is buried. The mulberry tree that took it down last week was my other neighbor's, but I got to clean it up in my yard.
 
The Jameson FG arrived today and 24' is 9 lb 4 oz, just 2 oz shy of the factory spec. 10 lb 6 oz with the head and 16" blade. I slid it together and without the head, picked it up. It's very heavy but the flex is less than my homemade job. As others warned me, it's too heavy. I'm not going to try to cut with it and I'll see if I can exchange it for the B-lite.

Jameson pole saw 001.JPG Jameson pole saw 002.JPG Jameson pole saw 003.JPG Jameson pole saw 004.JPG Jameson pole saw 005.JPG
 
Helium?

If the saw is sharp, the weight of the pole could be an advantage, once it is in position. You push 'UP'; gravity helps you pull 'DOWN'. But they can be unwieldy to maneuver into position.

Philbert
 
If these saws were designed a little different, maybe. Say a stand on the ground the butt end would slide into. Now you have a point to lever against for stability. You know, like the base for the pole vault? Same idea. Now to cut, the very last upper section would have to have something like a cam (or a gear), so you could pull a rope and get a back and forth sawing motion (talking all manual powered now) with the blade. If the bottom of the pole had a strap to you, that would hold it in the base (flat board with a tube to hold the pole, you stand on the board), then you could lean appropriately for stability and to get your needed angle of attack to the branch. This leaves both hands free to pull back and forth on the ropes that activate the reciprocating saw blade. Something like this would make a real long pole saw useable.
 
Everyone is proud of the B-lites. Just 3 x 8ft poles with shipping is $266, no saw or head. Make it $369 and I could get the BL-8PKG-5 package that includes: JA-34DP Big Mouth Double Pulley Pruner, Pole Adapter & Rope, 16" Tri-Cut Blade (SB-16TE), PS-3FP Pole Saw Head, One 8’ B-Lite Base Pole, Two 8’ B-Lite Extension Poles. The prices made me look at the ATSS poles again, and it looks like the are about the same weight as the Jameson FG. 34 ft at 13lbs is 9.12 lbs at 24 ft if I did the math right. I measured 24 ft of FG at 9.25 lbs. That is for all aluminum ATSS, and i would need 1 fiberglass. Then, there is a catch. They only suggest two aluminum poles on top of the fiberglass pole, so 18ft.
 
Took the FG's back today and ordered the green Jameson Landscaper poles. Can't hurt to try before I spend the bucks for the B-lites. I extended the Mr Longarm 23 ft in the store and it's nice and light, but flimsy. Also tried the Wooster Sherlock paint poles. Those are very nice, but just 16 ft. They use a hex or octagon aluminum pole, very rigid, strong and light. Probably wouldn't hold up to tree abuse.
 

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