Two chainsaws or one for farm/ranch?

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Always wear my steel-toe boots, chaps, helmet, earmuffs, and face shield. I do need to swap out my cheap work gloves.

What gloves do you guys recommend for chainsaw work? Are there any armored gloves that will allow you to grab a Honey Locust? Their thorns go right through my heavy leather gloves.
 
I'm just a firewood hack so won't claim the experience some of the other landowners have with similar issues. However, it sounds like you're planning to carry the gear a long ways to the work and doing the work. For the smaller work (4" to 12") I'd use a smaller saw. I've cut a lot with an older echo 346 on small stuff (up to 12 or 14" but it's not ideal in that size range). If it was me, I'd be looking at something like a Stihl MS250 or Echo 400. Might take a look at an Echo 490 but getting bigger and heavier. You'll likely end up needing a bigger saw for the Elms. You could buy to handle them and live with it for the smaller stuff.

Only you can compare the quantity of work to determine if lugging a bigger saw for all the work makes more sense than two saws.

If I'm working a ways away I'd have spare chains and learn to sharpen in the field. A sharp chain makes a lot of difference.

Thought about a cheap ATV or something to transport the gear?
 
Despite my "War And Peace" length initial post, I still didn't cover all of my chainsaw needs. I mostly concentrated on the "small" chainsaw tasks first.

My most likely chore for a "big" chainsaw is related to all of the 80+ year-old Siberian Elms on the property. Many have died and fallen across fence lines etc. The small branches shattered, but the main branches are old, bleached wood. I can only imagine how hard that crap will be to cut. (I just need to get it small enough to tractor skid to the burn pile.)

I also need to fell the live (but dying elms) while they are still solid enough to come down in one piece. The biggest problem is the snags that are dead and still standing. I wanted to take some pictures and measurements of those, and then post to the site for advice. Which forum is appropriate for felling/safety questions?
Be uber careful with snags.

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Anything I saw in the thread, but I would not rule out a Dolmar/Makita 6100. I have one and it is a great saw. It has supplanted my husky 576 for most cutting tasks.

I would budget about $1000. $600 for saw, $100 for a pair of chaps, $50 for a good hardhat, $50 for a 12 pack of files, husky roller file guide kit and a spare chain. The last $200 I would put towards a GOL or similar class.
 
I'm also in my 50's and I will always use the lightest saw that will do the job without laboring. For a single saw, go with something in the 50-60cc size class and no less than a high performance 40cc unit. If you can get two saws, go with a light 30cc for limbing and something twice as big for bucking/felling. If you are not cutting up the trees for firewood you will actually use the smaller saw more. My uncle has a Stihl ms 170 that's a joy to limb with, and I use my big old Pioneer for bucking were a heavy saw is actually easier to use.
 
Rod, I am in Australia and this might not be relevant but it sounds like you are in the same boat as a lot of small acreage owners in oz. I would say that you need two saws. The first would be a lightweight 40-45cc saw. There are many of these around, but I would really keep an eye out for something like a Dolmar/Makita PS-400, or similar.. These are old, but a really good lightweight saw that will handle all small work with ease and cost not very much. Run a 14-16 inch bar on it.

Then you need a bigish saw. Big equals about 70cc. If you can get a lightly used pro saw second hand you should. Husky 268/72 or 365 are great landowner options. I love Dolmar/Makita and would look for any of their bigger saws at a significant price reduction over Stihl/Husky. The money you save on getting a big saw like the Dolmar allows you to pick up a small saw as well for the cost of the Stihl/Husky.

You want the small saw to be as light as possible in the 40-45cc range. It is the one you will end up using the most.

Whatever you get, make sure you run three chains on each saw, swapping the chain after each major usage after you have sharpened it. If you have an air compressor great, blow over the saw after each usage. If not, at least brush it down and store them on a shelf off the ground. Larn how to sharpen the chains and adjust the tension. Always use good quality 2 stroke oil mixed at 40/50 - 1 and use high quality bar oil.

If you are a little bit handy, consider getting something a little older as the big saw (you wont use it that much and it can be a bit of a Hobby). The internet is full of information re keeping an older saw going. I personally have a Dolmar 120si and a Mcculloch Pro Mac 850 which are cracking big saws that would handle any farm situation - lots will say go modern, but if you have an inquiring mind there are many great options out there. I reckon I see 10 great saw a week for sale in Australia - you have access to 10 times that many.

For what it seems you need to do I would really urge you to learn about saws and make them something that you master a knowledge of. If you do this whatever saw you get has the potential to last you a very long time. The best saw treated badly wont last very long - but any saw treated well is a wonderful working tool. Good luck.
 
For small stuff, get the on sale ms250 and a 16" bar....I have had one for years, absolutely no problems....sit down and learn to file a chain or have someone sharpen them correctly for you!!!


As far as a big saw, about all of them will cost you $$$$....
 
Also, i forgot to put initially, the Stihl 029 and 039, MS290, MS310 & MS390 are all the same saw with different displacements. The 390 does provide the most power to weight ratio. If I was looking at buying used, it would make sense to get the 390. Also, if you do happen to pick up one of the other two sizes with a "bad" engine, Baileys and eBay have complete replacement engines of the 64 cc variety for prices ranging from $100 to $150 that will drop right in.
 
Also, i forgot to put initially, the Stihl 029 and 039, MS290, MS310 & MS390 are all the same saw with different displacements. The 390 does provide the most power to weight ratio. If I was looking at buying used, it would make sense to get the 390. Also, if you do happen to pick up one of the other two sizes with a "bad" engine, Baileys and eBay have complete replacement engines of the 64 cc variety for prices ranging from $100 to $150 that will drop right in.
Just stick with that series and don't let yourself be convinced the 391 is the same or will be as rugged....:) Different animal.
 
I'm in central Kansas also and use a Stihl 028 wb to do similar cutting and pasture clearing. I think any good 50cc saw will work well for what you want to do. I run a 16" bar for 95% of the time and put on a 20" bar if I get into a larger tree. Out here, I don't see many trees that can't be handled efficiently with this saw and two bars.
 
I relly like the 40cc 60cc combo.
My choice is dolmar 421 and 6100.
But there are lots of great options depending on how much you want to spend. echo has some great saws especially for their price. I little 361p and a 590 would make one heck of a combo for $800.
A husqvarna 435 and 465 would make a good pair as well.
Stihl has not impressed me and a large part is how our local dealers are.
 
I vote for the dolmar 421 as a one saw plan for the size of wood you are talking about. Pro saw unlike like alot of the plastic junk being tossed around in this thread and the price is very good also.
 
Rod I'm not a land owner but my understanding is you'll need a chainsaw, shot gun and a D9 to have all bases covered in property management.
Seriously though I like you like good value. There are none better than the dolmar 421 (40cc)and echo 590 (60cc). If you have 1000's of small trees to cut a 40 or 50cc saw is what you want for that job. If you also have lots of big old trees to manage you'll need a 70 - 90cc saw.
It is a tuff decision but if you buy a decent saw/s you'll never look back or regret it. There are a lot of opinions here but if you post some pics of what your looking to manage you may get some more clarity of opinions.

So there you go some international advise from the other side of the world.
 
I have a Stihl 026 and an MS 362 both with 20" bars.I don't like bending over so far.If you only go with one saw, the MS261 or Husqvarna 550xp or 545 will do a lot of work for you.With the large trees in the mix,I'd watch for a used 044,441,046 or 460.Maybe you could get a local logger to do the felling on the big trees.You can learn a lot from him about felling a sharpening your chain.
 
Being you are talking about packing a saw in and out you are looking for lite. Since budget isn't a problem I would suggest one of the small rear handled versions of the top handle saws. I have one of those Baileys closeout Tanaka 3351B Pro Force with a 12 inch bar. I'm about your age also. I find myself grabbing this saw as much as any saw I have. I have a milk crate with a slot (I plunged out with this saw), that I can fit the saw right in. I can fill an empty Tru Fuel quart bottle of gas in it an strap to my quad rack with my 2 gallon square sawing bucket with my gear and head out and cut poison ivy and multi floral all day. Great combo for clearing trails and such. Its a great lite little saw and handles like a kitchen knife. I have a 14 inch bar for it also but never put it on.

My friend uses a similar Echo saw for carving and I know Stihl used to have similar versions. You can mark your bigger jobs on your GPS and bring your big saw on the next trip.

I would suggest one of those Otter sleds or one of those game carriers rigged up to carry some pruning gear being you are on foot.
 
Being you are talking about packing a saw in and out you are looking for lite. Since budget isn't a problem I would suggest one of the small rear handled versions of the top handle saws. I have one of those Baileys closeout Tanaka 3351B Pro Force with a 12 inch bar. I'm about your age also. I find myself grabbing this saw as much as any saw I have. I have a milk crate with a slot (I plunged out with this saw), that I can fit the saw right in. I can fill an empty Tru Fuel quart bottle of gas in it an strap to my quad rack with my 2 gallon square sawing bucket with my gear and head out and cut poison ivy and multi floral all day. Great combo for clearing trails and such. Its a great lite little saw and handles like a kitchen knife. I have a 14 inch bar for it also but never put it on.

My friend uses a similar Echo saw for carving and I know Stihl used to have similar versions. You can mark your bigger jobs on your GPS and bring your big saw on the next trip.

I would suggest one of those Otter sleds or one of those game carriers rigged up to carry some pruning gear being you are on foot.
I hate the multi-flora! Use lightweight combi head with brush blade for reach. Then spray cut off stumps. Still sucks.

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Seems like the Stihl crowd is over represented here. I'd go with a Dolmar or Jonsered. I don't know what the dealer network is like in Kansas but I would go with other brands just for the fact that if worse comes to worse you can find your consumables on a Sunday at a Tractor Supply or Farm and Fleet. You are not going to find .063 chains at a box store.

The Stihl dealers around here don't have much chainsaw parts in stock anyhow and you can't get their parts on line. If you need something that's not in stock you are at their mercy. They don't order until Friday and that's only if they have a big enough order. If you need a special order then bend over. It's gonna hurt more than bending over to cut multi floral.

With my Jonsereds or Huskys I can pull out my cell phone and whatever I need is on my porch in a day or 2. I don't know about Dolmar or Echo on their parts network. I have ordered stuff from my deer stand before.
 
I hate the multi-flora! Use lightweight combi head with brush blade for reach. Then spray cut off stumps. Still sucks.

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Yea but he's hoofing out to the woods. I would do the same but I'm not carrying my brush rig a mile out. Now if I'm getting paid to do that work I'm putting the pole saw on my weed beater and taking the brush cutter with me.
 

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