igetbisy
ArboristSite Member
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"focused", Butch, stay focu"s"ed.
Plenty of work!
- Thread starter MasterBlaster
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MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Originally posted by igetbisy
"focused", Butch, stay focu"s"ed.
Trust me, its spelled just the way its supposed to be spelt'.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
I rarely use any kind of a notch when working with a crane. On trees that have a potential for splitting (dead) I will make a kerf cut on the backside.
Cutting straight through gives the crane operator a hinge to work with to allow the limb to ease into the proper position before cutting thru.
When using two straps to lift the log the chance for splitting is eliminated.
Cutting straight through gives the crane operator a hinge to work with to allow the limb to ease into the proper position before cutting thru.
When using two straps to lift the log the chance for splitting is eliminated.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Sorry to hear about your friend, I'm trying to envision the scenerio. Maybe he slowed down cutting too soon, leaving too large a hinge? Maybe the crane operator had too much bind on the limb?
I've never had one split in the manner you speak of. When the crane takes a bite on the limb, that is usually enough to eliminate/reduce the weight that was gonna cause the split in the first place.
Also, I allways leave myself a way out, whenever possible. And I make sure its ALLWAYS possible. Sometimes you HAVE to take evasive action, but 99% of the time the reason you are having to do that is because you, or the operator did something incorrectly.
I've never had one split in the manner you speak of. When the crane takes a bite on the limb, that is usually enough to eliminate/reduce the weight that was gonna cause the split in the first place.
Also, I allways leave myself a way out, whenever possible. And I make sure its ALLWAYS possible. Sometimes you HAVE to take evasive action, but 99% of the time the reason you are having to do that is because you, or the operator did something incorrectly.
wiley_p
ArboristSite Guru
Butch, I have solved the operator problem. I only hire cranes that have a digital readout in the cab showing how much lift the crane has applied. This puts it off on me, I estimate my weight of the peice being cut, give it to the crane man, and he applies that much. It works great, have'nt been off more than 200# except on the las pick at around 2200 on a storm day, the crew had been doing crane ops since 0630 that morning. It really is nice though no lurching, pinching etc. The peice rises about 3" and the operator moves the load away with no worries.
Lumberjack
Banned
How could you take all actions before the cut? Sometimes I mess up and have to evade during or right after the cut. Not normally but every once in a long while. Most of the time the cut is what makes the action neccessary, so how do you get the effect before the cause?
Carl
Carl
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
I'm guessing he gets it to the point where the crane can break it off.
I don't like doing that.
I don't like doing that.
lj. you just said it all (sometimes i mess up) what happens when
the op. messes up
just got back from va.doing 20 crane removals a day (dont like it at all) im not blasting you mb [n fact im old school myself been
climbing for 30 yrs just think some kind of front cut would
give you the added safey factor
the op. messes up
just got back from va.doing 20 crane removals a day (dont like it at all) im not blasting you mb [n fact im old school myself been
climbing for 30 yrs just think some kind of front cut would
give you the added safey factor
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
My experience has been that a back cut lends itself towards shock loading the crane.
I've never had a limb split once the crane had taken a bite on it.
I've never had a limb split once the crane had taken a bite on it.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
And I NEVER, EVER make a notch on a large chunk.
Never.
Never.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
I'd like to hear other's opinions on this.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
This is an example of the holding wood I use to ease the log, employing a straight-thru cut. This allows the operator the chance to orient the load properly.
This particular example shows a unusually small strip, due to the smaller log that was being lifted at the time.
A kerf cut removes this option.
And I NEVER, NEVER UNDERBED.
This particular example shows a unusually small strip, due to the smaller log that was being lifted at the time.
A kerf cut removes this option.
And I NEVER, NEVER UNDERBED.
Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
MB, you asked for other opinions so I'm going to come out of exile here. But I'm on Rocky's side.
Most crane operators in our area don't want to do trees, because it just isn't enough work for them to bother with trees.
I have worked with a 100 footer on two occasions to do some very large oaks. The rest of my crane experience has been with our Elliott which is nothing more than a light crane with a self-leveling basket on the end.
I will agree with you that operators are a big variable when it comes to crane work, some are some as silk, others are jerky and ramy.
It always seems to work smoother to notch limbs and let the hinge break when you lift limbs vertical, so they come down butt heavy.The situation is a little more controlable than rip cutting where a limb could pop and rip off unexpectantly. The same goes for tip heavy limbs, maybe not a notch every time, but some type of releif type under cut, unless I can saw through it real quick.
On spars I don't notch as a rule, but I do an off set Z cut with a "thin" hinge between the two cuts, then get out the way and let the crane break the piece off and lift it away, never a thru cut.
Just my two cents for what ever it is worth.
Most crane operators in our area don't want to do trees, because it just isn't enough work for them to bother with trees.
I have worked with a 100 footer on two occasions to do some very large oaks. The rest of my crane experience has been with our Elliott which is nothing more than a light crane with a self-leveling basket on the end.
I will agree with you that operators are a big variable when it comes to crane work, some are some as silk, others are jerky and ramy.
It always seems to work smoother to notch limbs and let the hinge break when you lift limbs vertical, so they come down butt heavy.The situation is a little more controlable than rip cutting where a limb could pop and rip off unexpectantly. The same goes for tip heavy limbs, maybe not a notch every time, but some type of releif type under cut, unless I can saw through it real quick.
On spars I don't notch as a rule, but I do an off set Z cut with a "thin" hinge between the two cuts, then get out the way and let the crane break the piece off and lift it away, never a thru cut.
Just my two cents for what ever it is worth.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Thanks for the feedback, Axe-man!
Lumberjack
Banned
IMO which noon should care seein as how I havent used a crane yet:
The operator makes all the difference. With a good operator and good communication I would have him preload to right under estamated weight of pick ( on chunking) cut through till the saw starts to bind and have him lift till it is balanced and cut it all the way through.
The easier the shift from weight on the tree to the crane the better.
On limbs I think I would use a hinge but cut it instead of breaking it.
Carl
The operator makes all the difference. With a good operator and good communication I would have him preload to right under estamated weight of pick ( on chunking) cut through till the saw starts to bind and have him lift till it is balanced and cut it all the way through.
The easier the shift from weight on the tree to the crane the better.
On limbs I think I would use a hinge but cut it instead of breaking it.
Carl
