Plugged oiler?

[NovaMan]

OK, my 026 doesn't oil like it did when I first got it. I took the bar off and ran it, and the oil comes out at a fast ooze. I put the bar on the way it was originally, with the chain that was on it originally (before it quit oiling well), and it didn't throw oil like it used to. It throws hardly any oil at all.

Now, since the oil is oozing out, I'm guessing maybe it's got a piece of crud stuck in an oil passage somewhere. How do I fix that, if that is indeed the problem?

 

[geofore]

oiling

You clean the rails out on your bar and if you have air blow out the oil hole. If not use a tooth pick or torch tip cleaner to clear the dirt and sawdust from the oil hole. Next you check to see if your chain has stretched and you have wound your bar out past the oil hole to tighten it, if it doesn't line up anymore. If cleaning the rail and blowing out the oil hole works, good. If your chain has stretched out and you're past the oil hole, take your chain to the dealer and have him take a few links out so when you put the chain back on the saw the holes line up again.

 

[NovaMan]

I don't think it's the bar because I've cleaned it multiple times. I'll check on the alignment of the holes, but I don't think the chain has had a chance to stretch that much. I was thinking a piece of crud got in the works from the oil reservoir side of the system.

 

[Lakeside53]

If it's a fast ooze, that's how it is supposed to work... Whether the chain throws it off or not isn't a good guide. A fast ooze (whatever that means) is plenty of oil... Did you by any chance change the oil from one type to another? Thin oils throw more, thicker oils don't (as much). If I remember right you were using up your really old oil from your Wen?

 

[geofore]

oiling problem

Another quick way to check is turn the bar over and run the saw. If it oils well after flipping the bar then it is crud in the bar hole.
The chain stretch will have you wound out to about the end of the adjuster before it stops the oil from working threw the hole.
Next thing to ask is when is the last time you flushed out the oil tank. Sometimes sawdust gets in the tank and blocks the oil flow. I'm trying to run you through this step by step in the order that finds the problem with the least amount of wasted time.

 

[NovaMan]

It doesn't matter which way I put the bar on, and the oil holes line up. It had no oil in it when Andy shipped it to me, and the only oil I have put in it is the old Xtra Force stuff. It's not especially thick, maybe about equivalent to 10W30.

How fast should the oil come out with no bar? What oil did you have in it, Andy? How do I flush the reservoir?

 

[Lakeside53]

It had standard weight Stihl bar oil. Roughly equivalent to 30wt. The tank had been flushed about two weeks before it was sent

To flush try putting gas in the oil tank, swish around for a while then dump out. Put some Kerosene or 10 wt oil like transmission fluid in the tank and run the saw (without bar and chain). Should pump out pretty good.

If you don't know what to look for, the best test is to use the saw in normal wood - not hickory, and the oil tank should be 1/2 - 3/4 gone after when the gas is empty. The non-adjustable pump like yours won't empty a tank of oil for one of gas, and that's how it's supposed to be.

 

[begleytree]

I hate those stupid little angled oil holes in stihl bars. Even open, they don't flow enough IMO. We drill 'em out.
Might be something to check too, although it sounds like you need a tank and line flush like lake said.
-Ralph

 

[Lakeside53]

I hate those stupid little angled oil holes in stihl bars. Even open, they don't flow enough IMO. We drill 'em out.
Might be something to check too, although it sounds like you need a tank and line flush like lake said.
-Ralph

The 3003 xxx xxxx bars (024-> 066) don't have angled holes... two straight drilled holes one on the top left and one on the bottom right.

 

[NovaMan]

I'll try flushing and see if that does anything. Thanks everyone.