Plunge Cuts

[buckwheat]

I've been doing some research on how to properly drop trees that already have a substantial lean towards where you want to drop them. On the OSHA site they advocate cutting out the face, and then making a plunge cut through the stump between where you want the hinge and where you would begin the back cut. That way your back cut only need to go in a few inches to release the tree and let the hinge take control.
It seems to make sense, but I can't figure out how you would safely begin a plunge cut, as I've never tried it. Isn't kickback a big issue here? I've seen some shots that have been posted of saws buried in wood. How do you do it?
And do any of you use this OSHA method?

 

[ac45]

the husky website has some good info on different cutting methods. I always use a plunge cut on any tree that I want the log for sawing lumber, keeps from splintering or pulling slivers out of the center. what I usuallly do to start it is start at right angles to where I want to plunge and pull cut untill the nose is in the thickness of the bar, and then when gradually turn saw back into stump, and plunge all the way out the other side. you will get kick back, if you just go andtry to jam it in the tree straight on.

 

[StIhL MaGnUm]

Plunge or Bore cutting is definetly a very good way to deal with a leaner or any tree for that matter,the way I bore cut is make my notch,then with the botton (attack) corner of the bar I start to make a cut just like a back cut but with the tip of the bar and once I can't see the tip I turn the saw into the tree and push it straight thru one thing you need to remember is to do all this at full throttle it will reduce the chance of a kickback,now if the bar is'nt long enough to reach the other side you just go to that side and do the same to make the cuts meet each other,then you set the hinge size you need and cut back towards the rear of the tree and leave a piece of wood I usually leave 2" or so then pull the saw out of the cut and make a back cut about 1" or so below the strapwood and head for your escape route..Hope this is'nt too confusing

Later Rob.

 

[JimL]

Yep takes a sharp chain and holding it wide open to plunge cut. I do 99% of my felling cuts witha plunge cut of some sort, I usually leave some holding wood at the back of the tree I can buzz off real quick and get the hell away.

The saw can jump with the whole bar in the tree. I have gotten a few bruises on my inner thighs and hit the boys once doing this

B careful!

 

[Chainsaw_Maniac]

I strongly recomend this site. Pay special attention to "felling techniques".

http://international.husqvarna.com/node51.asp

 

[Tony Snyder]

http://www.usa.jonsered.com/index.asp?skip_intro=true&skip_map=true

This should be the link to Jonsered's "How to run a chainsaw" brochure.

I am not up on how to do links. Can any one help me? I did the address above by doing ctrl C, and then ctrl V to get it on this post. It does not work as a link.

The above address is ,I think, correct, it worked for me.

 

[Chainsaw_Maniac]

Originally posted by TreeCo
Thanks for the great link Chainsaw_Maniac

Dan

No problem.

 

[tony marks]

buckwheat ,im not expert on plunge cuts, but i just got a feeling u
need to practice on small trees until u understand all thats happening,when a tree is felled that way. or anyway for that matter.jmo ,it mite be a better way, but theres a lot of power
in a big tree.

 

[buckwheat]

but i just got a feeling u need to practice on small trees until u understand all thats happening

yep, I was thinking the same thing. I'd want to make sure about getting everything lined up and especially not leaving to little hinge wood while making the plunge. Small trees=good.

 

[ac45]

IT is easier on a tree about 2 feet in diameter ( It depends on what you call small Thats prettty good size around here.) this way you have plenty of room for your feelling wedges, and they arent to close to to the holding peice of wood on the back.Wedges are cheap insurance that the tree goes the way you want.> Just put you wedges in and snug them up real tight before you cut the back peice to let it go. By the way do you guys cut straight in an the back peice or do ouy angle your cut on about a 30 degrre angle. I usually cut straight in, but have seen some other peole cut in on an angle to release the tree

 

[lync]

plunging

Buck,

Make some practice cuts on some downed wood. This way you can get the hang of it without dealing with what going to happen when the tree falls. Old stumps are best, but if you have some large rounds or slabs, you can practice before you split them into firewood. Cut with the bottom of the bar using the last 3-4 inches just before the tip, when you are in a bars width rotate the saw 90' and gently push, keep light pressure on the bottom of the bar and it will almost pull itself into the wood. The pocket that you cut before the 90' turn will prevent the bar from kicking out. Hold on tight , wear chaps. When you push completely thru then you can cut with the top of the bar toward the hinge, stop when your hinge is the thickness you want.. i like to start the cut so there is a 3" hinge, if you start the plunge too close to the notch, and cut too much away your hinge may wind up being too thin or you may cut through the hinge all together. Full throttle and sharp chain are important. Do not cut out the holding wood with the saw in the original kerf (inside out) the wood can tear and take the whole saw with it. Pull the saw out and cut from the outside in, right in line with your first cut.
This meathod also works well for trees leaning the opposite way from the direction you want to fell. After you bore out drive wedges from both sides that are 90" from felling direction, you can get more lift with a wedge right behind the hinge, granted they are harder to drive in this position. good luck

Corey

 

[Harley]

I think the Husky site is an excellent source of information.

Keep a good grip on the saw.
Be aware of where the bar might go incase it does kickback. And don't put your body there.
You can't make a plunge cut with safty chain.


Also, its a good technique to use for multiple stems.

 

[glens]

Hi Tony.

The US Jonsered (and Husqvarna, which is the exact same computer [farm?]) site uses the crappy frames method of navigation, so you never see the URL of the page you're actually reading, but instead it's always that of the initial page.

If you were using Netscape 4.x on Unix, I'd say you should click and hold on the link with the right mouse button and you'll see a menu with one of the options to "Copy Link Location".  Thereafter, clicking with the middle mouse button will paste the "Link Location".  Hopefully there is similar (or at least comparable) functionality in what you're using.

In any event, the document you want to reference is nice, if not large (about 3.5 MB) and can be fetched from the wretched MS server via http://www.usa.jonsered.com/files/documents/english_us/sawinstruction.pdf

Glen

 

[Gypo Logger]

I cut down a tree today on a steep slope and it plunged down the hill after I plunged it with my powersaw. Then I plunged down the hill after it to set a choker.
Frank's Planks

 

[StIhL MaGnUm]

John it sounds like you did alot of plunging yesterday while out in the snowy bush,I see you have some logs choked off the back of the 540 instead of the pesky pecker poles..So how goes the battle in the bush in Canada these days?I think plunge cutting is one of the many excellent ways to deal with certain problem tree's and any tree for that matter needing a certain size hinge put into it,just not a type of cut for a amatuer to go out and try with out some type of instruction..



Later Rob

 

[chainsawworld]

unfortunely safe cutting can not be learned on the net. we must also remember that because each situation will be differant, practice does not make perfect. practice makes improvement. all cutters should recieve hands on training from an instructor.
chainsaw bars have four areas that give the operator four forces. push, pull, attack and kick-back. bore cutting is done with the attack area of the chain. i use a stump that has been modified to have three squared sides to show students the proper use and the effect of the attack area and the hazards of the kick-back area. the best way to learn safe and proper bore cutting is hands on with a quilified instructor.
marty

 

[StIhL MaGnUm]

Marty,

I'm with you I think everyone must understand the importance of hands on training by some type of qualified instructor be it a logger,arborist etc.etc. you can read about it all you want but it's a totaly different scenario when it comes down to going and applying it to a tree..Anyone who is interested in attending training sessions check out the Game of Logging,Arbormaster Training,Or your local Timber Harvesting or Logging Association etc..

Later Rob

 

[Gypo Logger]

I think going to a chainsaw instructor is fine, but it sure wont make you a logger, or even a woodtick for that matter.
Generally speaking, I would say that if instructors were as accomplished as they would like to think they are, then they would be out there making a living the woods, instead of issuing a certificate of quailification after a few days field work to some impressionable audience, unless of course they were making more $$ doing so, or had some particular love for teaching.
It has been my finding that instructors have an inate fear of their saws and their surroundings and allow safety issues to permeate their very being, making them also an accident looking for a place to happen.
Learning saw use from an instructor is fine and dandy, but reading is a great teacher as well. If it is in your blood you will get there come H$ll or Highwater.
Just remember that a coward dies many deaths, only the valiant sleep well at night.
This isnt a slam on any formal education, I am just saying that a certificate, licence or degree doesnt immediately imply proficiancy, but rather a primer to the real world.
John,
Safety First!

 

[StIhL MaGnUm]

John I hear what you are saying and I agree I have only met one instructor around here that actually makes his living logging and he is a very good friend of mine,but the rest of the instructors all do something else I still don't really understand why but thats besides the point,I agree the only way to learn besides help from anyone is to just go out in the woods and try it,it does'nt take a rocket scientist to fell a tree you just have to understand what you are trying to accomplish,understand the reactive forces of the chainsaw and how to control the direction of the falling tree and what is needed to do so..

A certificate does not mean that you know how to fell every tree thats for sure I know a few loggers who have gotten certified and then they think they can do anything in the bush until they come to a tree that has a ton of head lean and alot of side lean and then they look at it and don't know what to do..Sure they can drop it but anyone can do that it's a matter of will they get it to go where it's supposed to safely,without injuring themselves or others or even the timberstand itself..The way I see it is the only way to learn is do read up on the proper ways to do things and go out in the woods and try them,just make sure you know what you are trying to do and wear all the proper saftey equipment..You can only learn from what you try,be safe

Later Rob.

 

[chainsawworld]

i instruct because i enjoy it plus it keeps people alive. i meet lots of people with that narrow inteligence. some in class and some by accident( theirs,if they live). why take the chance of learning from experiance if you can learn from instruction? what if your first experiance kills you? now you learned your lesson? you for sure wont do it again.
i teach from the safety envelope, entering the woods to limbing, safely. power head and chain maintainance. lots of things are in the plan. things lots of people over look. i also cut my fair share of trees. i incorperate that into the lesson plan. reading will not give you that rush(or fear) you get from cracking the throttle of a saw that can cause serious or fatal injury. it's nice to have learned how to maintain it and apply it safely. i have no problem telling people they are not safe and they failed.
insurance companies are pushing for loggers to get the G.O.L. or other instruction. it will not be long that if you do not have it you will not make a living in the woods.
i would like to put validity into what john says but here is a man that hardly ever wears safety gear. and posts lots of pictures to prove it. it is just a matter of time before something happens.
BE SAFE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! marty