Pole Barn project

[Sawyer Rob]

As for PT rotting, it depends on the PT lumber. Some is only treated to .40 retention, it will rot in some conditions. It's made for ground contact, NOT to be put in the ground. The .60 won't rot for a LONG time and .80 is for marine use.

Many places only have .60 if you order it, I haven't seen "anyplace" that has .80 in stock...

SR

 

[SDB777]

Konnan1,

Given the choice between the two....I'd pick cedar. Poplar, I wouldn't even use it for firewood....although, it will make a nice vase or something on the lathe.
I've seen cedar fence posts that have been in the ground holding barbwire for decades(think 50+ years), that are as solid as the day they were stuck in the ground. And I have seen PT that was sitting in one of those concrete pad/holder things rot after one year(as well as being eaten by bugs). Go figure?

Hemlock was used in the earlier days(think back during post-n-beam construction). It has some great qualities....happen to have any of that stuff(would put in on rock or concrete, and not ground contact).




Scott (what are you going to mill with) B

 

[konnan1]

Awesome - Cedar it is, hopefully putting it up green isn't a terrible stupid choice. I'll post some picks over the next month or two on how she is coming along.

 

[JHctRednek]

Just my 2 cents, cedar is fine.
We built a tractor shed with cedar poles in the 90s just took an axe and chipped off the pith from the cedar poles to get down to the heart wood and direct buried the poles 3' down. Its nothing special just three walls and a tin roof but its been holding up fine. Around here the only thing that rots on red cedar is the pith, just pull out any old fence post like SBD777 said and you'll see.

good luck with your project

 

[Marshy]

Of the species you listed cedar would be my number 1 choice. Overall best choice for rot resistant non-PT wood is black locust followed by cedar and hemlock. Those 3 are the go-to wood for farmers making fence post. If you use the cedar and put the post on a raised pad then I'd expect good life from it, more so than buried in the ground. Avoid using any popular unless you want problems, I just don't consider popular good wood in general let alone an ok choice for structural.

 

[konnan1]

Finally got two of the 10 posts I need milled. Here is a pic - ended up doing 8x8's of cedar. Now just 8 more to go.....

 

[konnan1]

Long overdue update! So dug out 10", 4 foot deep hole, and sono tube/cemented them in with anchors. Ended up cutting the posts down to 6x6's, just easier and more manageable. on the cross beams, one side poplar, one ash(notched in to pole), and then trusses went up last weekend. Literally my first project, so it's been a big learning experience....but its getting there! Now for the tin roof....

 

[dlabrie]

View attachment 371595

Long overdue update! So dug out 10", 4 foot deep hole, and sono tube/cemented them in with anchors. Ended up cutting the posts down to 6x6's, just easier and more manageable. on the cross beams, one side poplar, one ash(notched in to pole), and then trusses went up last weekend. Literally my first project, so it's been a big learning experience....but its getting there! Now for the tin roof....

Did you build the trusses yourself?

 

[konnan1]

no - the one piece of wood on there that wasn't milled. had those generously given by a nieghbor

 

[Marshy]

I hope the poplar works out well for you. Seems like a big investment to be gambling with on an inferior wood... I'd be movin quick to keep that Poplar out of the elements.

 

[konnan1]

Ya it's going to be 100% covered within the week and then shouldn't ever get wet again after that.

 

[dlabrie]

no - the one piece of wood on there that wasn't milled. had those generously given by a nieghbor

Wow, you lucked out! I called for quote on buying them for my 22 X 24 mill shed and they wanted $1600! I am going to make them myself. I am building mine from Eastern White Pine.

 

[konnan1]

Oh wow! I like it, I didn't do a floor on mine, my only regret. Next time

Can't believe the trusses are worth so much! But I guess as long as you are very accurate on the angles and measurement's, building your own wouldn't be too troublesome. Then use that first one as a template to build the rest..

Do you know what spacing your doing for the purlins on the roof? I did trusses 4' oc., am milling true 2x4's, was told I should stagger them ever 11" up the roof, and then nail my tin on. But every 11"'s sounds like overkill...?

 

[dlabrie]

My plan is to get the deck finished then build a jig on the floor to construct the trusses. I am not a carpenter, so I might be doing this all wrong, but I plan to
place the 2x4 trusses 2' on center (is this over kill?) and space the purlins 2' apart. I am going to have a 6/12 pitch with a metal roof. I built a barn 25 years ago with 2x6 rafters 2' on center, and spaced the purlins 2' apart. They have held up fine. I also have a lean-to for my fire wood, purlins 2'apart.

 

[konnan1]

No I don't think it's overkill. I only went 4' centers as I knew I was going true 2x4 purlins, at a spacing of my choosing, so I just figured I would make it work....wanted a bigger shed as I only had 9 trusses to work with. If your building your own...then nothing wrong with 2'. Also my trusses are 2x6, so that factored into my decision as well.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Factory truss' are built from a better grade of wood than just using stud wood, and they are pre-stressed when they are put together... (less sag and stronger)

SR

 

[dlabrie]

Progress update...

 

[pete_86]

Looking good, what's the floor going to be made of 2x material? No 24" on rafters or trusses is usually considered the max normally and that's not always because of truss strength, but the ability of whatever roof decking that's used to span the distance. Using milled lumber and if you have enough on hand, 16" OC and 1x3 purlins is plenty. If you ever walk on a metal roof it's always practice to stay on the purlins, and metal roofing dents easy enough 16 oc if walked between. Your 24oc be plenty as doubt you'll walk on it much after it's built? More pitch less loading and snow pile up.

Was curious about your floor beams. Did you end up using carriage bolts or timber screws to attach to posts? I was wondering if anyone's done or thought of this? Such as setting your beam on 4x4 post supports and than notching the end of the 6x6 posts 4" so that the post sits directly on beam and the 2" piece left is kept on the inside and a few 20d nails thrown in. No special hardware needed and all wood to wood bearing with this method. Once building is framed the posts will be rigid as building will hold posts in place and they just need to transfer load. Building will be locked in from side to side motion and any uplift. The only problem with this method is your turning a 6x post into a 4x bearing capacity. Lots of ways to skin a cat, wanted to mention another way for anyone thinking of doing a pole barn

 

[dlabrie]

For the the headers, top and bottom, I first hung 8', 2x8s on joist hangers between the posts. Then I spanned 2, 12' 2x8s across the front of them. For the top headers, I put a 2x down the post to help support the 2x12s. Everything is secured with 4" TimberLOK Heavy-Duty Wood Screws.

The floor is going to be 1"boards. I am going to build 2X4 roof trusses at a 6/12 pitch. I'll use 1"boards for the purilns and a metal roof to top it off.

 

[kimosawboy]

There is free software out there that can help you with the layout of the trusses as well as the spacing....
Like Sawer Rob said factory trusses are from a better grade of wood, they are also designed by an engineer/assembled with the correct plates and press.
Dlabrie, it sounds like your truss layout will be fine especially with the big pitch. Snowload is never going to stick and I assume that all your material is cut to true dimensions? 24"OC is standard for around here (west coast)
Konnan1, 4' OC is a pretty big spacing, have you thought about building a few of your own trusses to throw into the mix? What is the pitch on yours going to be?