Possible new bad gas. What should I do?

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In this, your PIC, you can see the MAGIC MARKER LIKE CARBON TRACKS on the ring/ piston, and it was LESS than that locked a Ring in the groove on day 2 of a new saw like GLUE, name brand oil, 40:1 dino.

In another example, CSM tested with new piston/rings for x-hours one at 40:1, one at 50:1, one at 100:1; Results was carbon at 40:1 similar to yours, 50:1 was CLEAN, and 100:1 left some slight scoring. He agreed w/ MFR that 50:1= Best. Your mileage may vary.
I'd like to see that test...
I can say for certain that the only ratio I ran for decades was 32:1 and I never had deposit issues. And not for lack of inspection either.
Carbon issue are mostly caused by running the wrong type of oil or an engine that is running excessively hot.
The OP is using Stihl Ultra oil at 50:1, which is crap oil.
 
@sean donato, I am not saying your not correct. However I have never had a gravity fed float bowl carb on a small engine vapor lock on me. This includes running high volatility fuel in dirt bikes where the carb is very close to the exhaust and behind the motor.
When I was a kid I do remember my grandpa's Suburban vapor locking. This would have been in the early 1980's. That had a mechanical fuel pump on the block close to the exhaust headers IIRC.
I was specifically thinking about the kohker ch series in mowers. The fuel pump was mounted near the valve cover on the inside of the vee. With the covers on it would get so hot under the hood it would vapor lock the fuel system. As I recall the "fix" was to insulate the fuel line. Still gave issues in a lot of instances. we found afrer aome screwing around a Fawcett 4 psi electric fuel pump permanently solved the issue even if not covered under warranty. If you wanted to be cheap just take the enclosure panels off and let more air in around the engine worked in most cases too.
 
Results was carbon at 40:1 similar to yours, 50:1 was CLEAN, and 100:1 left some slight scoring. He agreed w/ MFR that 50:1= Best.
Not gonna lie, this doesn’t remotely sound like anything that actually happened. But he probably should’ve switched oil and tried it again
 
@sean donato, I am not saying your not correct. However I have never had a gravity fed float bowl carb on a small engine vapor lock on me. This includes running high volatility fuel in dirt bikes where the carb is very close to the exhaust and behind the motor.
When I was a kid I do remember my grandpa's Suburban vapor locking. This would have been in the early 1980's. That had a mechanical fuel pump on the block close to the exhaust headers IIRC.
Had B&S small engines push winter fuel right out of the old 3.5hp metal tanks in the summer heat. Paint them white not black. Lesson learned.
 
Let me know what you find out about seasonal marine fuel. It may be exempt.
area dependant, but it still applies in the north east. Dad's had plenty of issue when filling the wellcraft up in October amd taking it out on a hot day in March or April with vapor lock. Remind him every year to drain the tank but he prefers to fill it to avoid condensation.
 
Let me know what you find out about seasonal marine fuel. It may be exempt.
It's not EPA exempt, but even if it were it's still made from the same crap.
Nothing goes to waste in a refinery. Our job is to blend crap with quality to hit a spec. The proportions change by the day or even hour. So the chemical soup you buy at the pump will meet every spec the EPA says we have to meet, but the composition is always changing.
 
area dependant, but it still applies in the north east. Dad's had plenty of issue when filling the wellcraft up in October amd taking it out on a hot day in March or April with vapor lock. Remind him every year to drain the tank but he prefers to fill it to avoid condensation.
We do the same and burn off the old stuff on river runs before the heat comes up if they are still parked. So I'll wait until they get fresh deliveries this spring.

I should add these are pump gas trailered boats not slipped seasonally.
 
It is a complete miss around us. Places that have it are not on there and places it says has it, doesn’t.
www.pure-gas.org uses crowd (USER) sourced data. If you see (and can confirm) a mistake Users are encouraged to submit a correction to the website.

Yes, I would call to confirm if you would have to drive a long way to the station. While you are there it would be a good idea to ask the station manager/operator how often they get E0 deliveries. If they say every week you are probably good. If they say every couple of months... Find a new station.
 
It is USER REPORTS that keep PURE-GASDOT COM info current, SO YOU TOO can report errors/ changes.
Reporting is easy. Getting it updated is another thing. I tried to update three bad listing in my area last year. No go. They claim Efree at places that don't sell it.
 
Will Red Armor oil help clean up the cylinder on my saws?
What mix ratio would be recommended?

I guess now I just need to know if these cylinders are damaged and if there is anything I need to do to them.
 
It may help. RA does fine at 50:1.
I think your cylinders are just fine.
Oh it absolutely does clean up the mess other oils leave behind. It will clean off half of a common piston in about ten tanks of fuel in moderate weather. It scours away at soft carbon and varnish deposits. Doesn't do much for the exhaust port sides except in the high speed port area. Likely just a good clean burn and residual carbon deposits leaving blasting that clean. Carbon gets much softer on the dome/top and in the exhaust port sides on the roof. The floor gets cleaned in the center to a point near the exhaust gasket. You have definitely seen this pattern before. RA seems to do it very well compared to most other oils. H1R and Schaeffer's also come to mind in mix oils. Red Maxx had a very similar oil we tested years ago in chainsaws. Great detergent blended products were in that also.
 
Oh it absolutely does clean up the mess other oils leave behind. It will clean off half of a common piston in about ten tanks of fuel in moderate weather. It scours away at soft carbon and varnish deposits. Doesn't do much for the exhaust port sides except in the high speed port area. Likely just a good clean burn and residual carbon deposits leaving blasting that clean. Carbon gets much softer on the dome/top and in the exhaust port sides on the roof. The floor gets cleaned in the center to a point near the exhaust gasket. You have definitely seen this pattern before. RA seems to do it very well compared to most other oils. H1R and Schaeffer's also come to mind in mix oils. Red Maxx had a very similar oil we tested years ago in chainsaws. Great detergent blended products were in that also.
In decades of messing with different oils I have never seen one that removed carbon. A piston crown should have some carbon on it anyways.
I just checked my Husky 580 blower. I switched it over last year to RA. Piston still looks the same as it always has. But even over ran crap oil like Ultra in it.
H1R is anything but a clean burning oil in a chainsaw. Ditto Schaeefers, which is a boat oil.
 
Gas looked the same after sitting 48 hours. No water separation, so must have been good gas.
I got new 90 octane non ethanol gas and I ran some RA at 50:1 for about 5 minutes today. It shined up the 400 but did little for the 261.
 
It is pretty hard to diagnose a non running saw piston and cylinder through the exhaust port. You need to pull the cylinder for a better diagnosis. The intake side of the piston and a complete look at the cylinder, crank and bearings is a must. Vacuum and pressure test before tear down tells the story.
There is more to the story than fuel. It is only 1 part.
 
In decades of messing with different oils I have never seen one that removed carbon. A piston crown should have some carbon on it anyways.
I just checked my Husky 580 blower. I switched it over last year to RA. Piston still looks the same as it always has. But even over ran crap oil like Ultra in it.
H1R is anything but a clean burning oil in a chainsaw. Ditto Schaeefers, which is a boat oil.
They all burn just fine and they do remove carbon on the wet side. Just because no one notices it doesn't mean it isn't happening.
 
It is pretty hard to diagnose a non running saw piston and cylinder through the exhaust port. You need to pull the cylinder for a better diagnosis. The intake side of the piston and a complete look at the cylinder, crank and bearings is a must. Vacuum and pressure test before tear down tells the story.
There is more to the story than fuel. It is only 1 part.
I don’t think anything else would be wrong with the saws. All three stopped running once the new gas was introduced to the saws. All three saws are new. The 261 is the oldest at 14 months. The 400 is 8 months and the 500 is maybe 4 months old. In terms of wood cut, I cut 6 cords in spring of 2023 with the 261 and maybe 2 cords with the 400. The 500 has little run time.
 

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