Possible to sharpen a Samurai hand saw ?

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JaIt

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I tried hand filling one of those and couldn't get any decent results after sharpening for almost an hour. At the risk of sounding like an idiot, what am I doing wrong ?! WTF :)
Thanks
 
Silky blades are very soft, judging by the last one in my about a month ago. The teeth he is working on are induction hardened. Likely in the 60-70 range rockwell, vs file maybe 55 same sale.
 
Silky blades are very soft, judging by the last one in my about a month ago. The teeth he is working on are induction hardened. Likely in the 60-70 range rockwell, vs file maybe 55 same sale.
Thanks a lot for posting, I almost bought the expensive silky sharpening file, apparently for no reason ...
 
I found something interesting. There's a file from the Samurai brand that's supposedly capable of doing it. Check it here:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Samurai-Kanzawa-Japanese-Sharpenner-DFH-70/dp/B074P51CJ3
They call it the Samurai Kanzawa Japanese Saw Diamond Sharpenner DFH-70.
You can find it in other places other than woke Amazon, I just posted that link because of the description that mentions "hard impulse-hardened saw teeth".

Anyone tried it ?
 
Silky saw blades are induction hardened. Given their huge popularity with the Arborist industry, I don't think it is fair to call them "very soft". They are also nickle plated, which probably contributes to their hardness.

Each Silky tooth is sharpened on 3 different facets, and they take a long time to sharpen. I don't know what saw you are referring to, but I presume it is something made by these guys in Japan.

http://www.samurai-saws.com/
 
Ya know I did not look at the spelling real close, maybe it was a cheap copy. I know i have had other Silky units here and they were hard as Granite. most of the time i can tell an induction hardened blade just by looking at it. course if they do the plating last then the tell tail trace is hidden.
 
And a steady base to work from, in addition to steady hands. Damned powerful optics if you are not a young'n with excellent near-sightedness, too. Those little points are hard to see clearly, and you can over-file them if your vision isn't quite acute.

They are MUCH harder to sharpen than a common chainsaw. And damned easy to dull, too.
 
I dulled one of those saws with the hard teeth. I think I used a Dremel with a 1" thin abrasive wheel to get it back in working order.
 
A 1" dremel wheel is too big. That's like trying to paint the Mona Lisa with a 4" house painting brush.

For proper sharpening, it's a feather file or nothing. Even then, it is pretty jagged and rough compared to the factory grind.

I suppose someone, somewhere has the right machine like Silky will have in their manufacturing facility.
 
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